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The appearance of a properly pruned plant is like a good hair cut: hardly noticeable at first glance. Presented by Dr. Teri Hamlin Georgia Department of Education Landscape Pruning Trees
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Pruning Pruning at Planting: –If quality plant stock, pruning is not necessary Do not prune to compensate for root loss –latest research show pruning does not help overcome transplant shock
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Why Prune Removal of dead, broken, diseased, or insect-infested branches Maintain desired shape & size (make it look natural) Promote healthy vigorous growth Promote flowering & fruiting Allow air and light to enter the interior of the plant.
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Pruning Tools Sharp & Sterile
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Pruning Tools Hand Shears: branches up to ½” in diameter Lopping Shears: branches ½ to 1 ½” in diameter Pruning Saw: branches larger than 1 ½” in diamter Chain Saw: branches larger than 3” Pole Pruner: long-handled pruner to reach into canopy w/o a ladder. (power pole pruner) Hedge Shears: hedges and other shrubs up to ½” in diameter Grass shears: 2 blades designed to cut grass around edges of walks or flower beds.
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Making the Cut Directional Pruning- cuts should be about ¼ in above bud or beyond branch collar
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Making the Cut
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Pruning Technique Heading –Removes a part of a shoot Thinning Removes the entire shoot or limb
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Pruning Technique Thinning Selectively cutting oldest branches to ground opens center and promotes new growth
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Pruning Technique Heading Use for small leaf hedges Creates dense, tight foliage
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Rejuvenating/Renewal Restore overgrown shrubs Cut all branches 4-8” above ground If there are any diseased or dead plants you should remove them first.
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Root Pruning Don’t prune completely flush with the main trunk
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Crown Thinning No more than one-fourth of the living branches should be removed at one time
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Crown Raising Remove branch from bottom to provide clearance After pruning the ratio of living crown to total tree height should be at least two-thirds
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Crown Reduction Ratio of live crown to total tree height should be at least two-thirds Never cut main branches of tree back to stubs (Topping Trees)
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Pruning Young Tree A. Remove suckers B. Low Growing Branches infer w/maintenance practices C. Upright growing shoots or waterspouts D. Inward growing branches E. Branches that compete with a central leader
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Large Limbs A. Make partial cut from underneath B. Make a second cut from above several inches out –allows the limb to fall C. Complete job with final cut just outside the branch collar
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Pruning Limbs An Improper Cut made through the branch collar will take 3x longer to heal
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Pruning Time General Rule Trees & Plants that flower before May –Prune after bloom Dogwood, Redbud, Saucer Magnolia, Flowering Cherry Azalea, Forsythia, Rhododendron, Clematis, Climbing roses Trees & Plants that flower after May –Prune prior to spring growth Chaste Tree, Crape Myrtle, Sourwood Camellia, Nandina, Sweetshrub, Abelia, Floribunda roses
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North Georgia Pruning Time January - March Broadleaf evergreen Needleaf evergreen Renewal Pruning Large Tree Limbs
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Pruning Paint Correct Tools Correct Time Correct Technique “Placebo” - making the user feel good Research shows that paint or wound dressings do not stop decay nor cause the wound to close faster Successful Pruning
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What To Prune? On your Pruning Worksheet put a line through the parts of the tree or shrub that you feel should be pruned and tell why. Mark in pencil so you can make corrections if needed.
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Plant #1: Create a central leader on this young plant.
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Plant #2: Allow plant to have a higher canopy
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Plant #3: Open the Canopy
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