Textiles Natural Manufactured

Fibers Basic Unit of all Textile Products- tiny hair like. All fibers have their own characteristics and properties, depending upon their source, chemical composition, and quality. No fiber is perfect. Each has some good, fair, and poor qualities that may make it suitable or unsuitable for certain uses.

Fibers con’t The basic characteristics of a fiber can be slightly altered but never totally changed. The fiber may be short, long, straight, or curly. These fiber characteristics greatly affect the appearance, and performance of the fabrics they are made into. The Characteristics you look for in children’s clothing are totally different that you would look for in evening wear for yourself. Thus an understanding of fibers, yarns, and fabrics if basic to the study of apparel.

Fiber Sources Natural - occurs naturally in nature Manufactured - is made from chemicals or natural fibers that are chemically changed

Fiber Sources Natural- Plant or Animal fiber that grows in nature. Two categories: Cellulosic Fibers (plant)- Include: Cotton, Linen (hemp), Ramie, Jute, Bamboo Protein Fibers (animal) Include: Wool, Silk, Leather

Fiber Sources (con’t) Manufactured- (Cellulosic) o Made from a Natural material called Cellulose. The cellulose is turned into a liquid and poured through a spinneret. Includes: Acetate, Rayon, Triacetate, Lyocell. Spinneret- Like a showerhead, that sprays out chemicals that harden into long strands called filament fibers.

Fiber Sources (con’t) Manufactured Non-cellulosic (may be called “Synthetic”- Made from chemicals, petroleum, coal, and natural gas. All of these fibers are manufactured from different combinations of petroleum, natural gas, air and water. They are poured through a spinneret. Include: Acrylic, Polyester, Nylon, Modacrylic, Spandex, and Olefin.

General Characteristics Natural Fibers High absorbency Breathable All Wrinkle, some exceptions Often very luxurious, and more expensive than Manufactured Fibers

General Characteristics Manufactured Low absorbency Non-breathable Wrinkle resistant Usually less expensive Melt with high heat

Fiber Structures Staple Fibers- Short & Fuzzy- Usually between 1” and 4” long. These tiny fibers already exist in a plant or animal. The fibers just need to be cleaned up, sorted, and purified before they are used for fabrics. o Short o Look lumpy and bumpy under a microscope o Include all natural fibers, except silk

Fiber Structures (con’t) Filament Fibers- Long and smooth (like fishing line) o Include all man-made, and synthetic fibers o Include Silk Spinneret- All man-made and Synthetic fibers are poured through a Spinneret to create the fiber.

Natural Fibers Cotton Flax (Linen) Wool Silk Hemp Bamboo Ramie Leather

Natural Fibers- Sources Plants and animals sources that grow in nature Cellulosic- Plant fibers o Cotton o Linen (flax) o Ramie o Hemp o Bamboo o Ramie Protein- Animal fibers o Wool o Silk o Leather

–Absorbent- able to take up moisture –Porous- able to breathe, air passes through –Biodegradable- able to break down –Most wrinkle easily –Tend to be more expensive –Staple fibers which look General Characteristics of Natural Fibers

Cotton advantages Strong, durable Soft Absorbs moisture Breathes well Washes easily Dyes well

Cotton disadvantages Mildews Does not spring back into shape Wrinkles easily Burns readily Shrinks

Blouses Dresses Skirts Undergarments Shirts Jeans Sportswear Clothing/Fashion uses

Care of Cotton Wash in washer and dry Iron at high temperature

Flax (Linen) Advantages STRONG Absorbs moisture Comfortable in warm weather Washes easily

Linen disadvantages Mildews WRINKLES Burns easily

Clothing/Fashion uses Blouses Dresses Skirts Suits

Care of Linen Wash or Dry Clean, CHECK LABEL Washing will change the “hand” of the fabric making it soft and wrinkled in appearance Iron at HIGH temperature with moisture and a press cloth

Wool Advantages WARM Durable ABSORBENT Resilient (returns to original shape quickly) Wrinkle Resistant Fire Retardant

Wool Disadvantages Requires special care Shrinks sometimes if washed, or dried in dryer Absorbs odors Requires protection against insects

Knit garments Sweaters Gloves Skirts Coats Sportswear Socks Suits slacks Clothing/Fashion uses

Care of Wool Dry Clean or Hand Wash and Dry flat Iron at low temperature using a press cloth

Silk Advantages Smooth Lustrous Strong Dries quickly

Silk Disadvantages Shows water spots Iron at low temperature Expensive

Care of silk Dry clean or hand wash, check label Iron at low temperature

Skirts Blouses Dresses Neckties Scarves Lingerie Sweaters Clothing/Fashion uses

Manufactured Fibers- Cellulosic Acetate Lyocell (Tencel®) Rayon

Manufactured Cellulosic Fibers Made from a natural material called “cellulose.” Found in the plant wall of different plants. General Characteristics –Breathable –Wrinkles –Heat Sensitive –Absorbent

Acetate Advantages Soft Drapeable Dries quickly Resistant to shrinking

Acetate Disadvantages Can wrinkle Low abrasion resistance Heat sensitive Damaged by acetone

Acetate- care Some fabrics will be washable, but many will be “dry clean only.”

Skirts Blouses Dresses Scarves Linings Acetate- Clothing/Fashion uses

Rayon advantages Soft and comfortable High moisture absorbency Drapeable

Rayon disadvantages May wrinkle or shrink unless treated May mildew

Care of Rayon Dry cleaned or washable (see label) Iron at low temperature

Rayon- Clothing/Fashion uses o Dresses o Shirts o Blouses o Skirts o Pants

Lyocel advantages Breathable Soft and comfortable Drapes well- heavier than Rayon Dull finish Absorbent Strong

Lyocel disadvantages Expensive Stretches in length & width Damaged with hot iron

Care of Lyocel Washable Dry Clean Low Iron

Dresses Skirts Lingerie Blouses Clothing/Fashion uses

Synthetic Fibers Acrylic Nylon Polyester Spandex (Lycra) Aramid (Kevlar, Nomex) Olefin Triacetate Modacrylic

Synthetic Fibers All are made from Petrochemicals General Characteristics - Resist Abrasion - Resist Wrinkling - Melt at High Heat - Not absorbent

Acrylic Advantages Soft Warm Wool-like Light weight Wrinkle resistant Resistant to moths and sunlight Affordable

Acrylic Disadvantages Pills Static electricity Heat sensitive

Care of Acrylic Dry Cleaned or laundered Iron at low temperature

Sweaters Knit garments Faux Fur Coats Pants Skirts Shoe soles Clothing/Fashion uses

Nylon Advantages Very Strong Resilient Lustrous Dries quickly Water, wind resistant Afordable

Nylon disadvantages May yellow or gray Heat Sensitive Low moisture absorbency Pills

Care of Nylon Easily laundered Iron at low temperature

Sportswear Jackets Raincoats Backpacks Purses Clothing/Fashion uses

Polyester advantages Excellent WRINKLE RESISTANCE Resistant to abrasion Dries quickly Blends well with other fibers Retains heat-set pleats and creases

Polyester disadvantages Absorbs oily stains Low absorbency of moisture

Care of Polyester Easily laundered Needs little or no pressing

Clothing/Fashion uses Pants Shirts Suits Sportswear Skirts

Spandex advantages Excellent elasticity and recovery Stronger and more durable than rubber Light weight Resistant to body oils Used for one reason: “Stretch” *Spandex is always blended with other fibers.

Spandex disadvantages Damaged by chlorine bleach Damaged by heat Does not Dye Well

Pants Shirts Jeans Sportswear Underwear Socks Bras Tights Clothing/Fashion uses

Fabric Blends Cotton / Polyester – Why? Cotton / Spandex – Why? Wool / Acrylic – Why? Cotton / Linen – Why? Polyester / Silk – Why? Nylon / Spandex – Why?

Aramid (Kevlar & Nomex) advantages Exceptional strength Exceptional heat and flame resistance Resistant to stretch and abrasion

Aramid disadvantages Not absorbent

Clothing/Fashion uses Kevlar –Bullet Proof Vests –Cut/Heat and Chemical resistant Gloves Nomex –Fireman Uniforms –Racing Apparel

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