Fabric Finishing Techniques and Innovations Objective 1.02

Fabric Finishes Any special treatments that are applied to fabrics. May be permanent or temporary.

Purposes of Fabric Finishes Reduce undesirable characteristics. Improve desirable characteristics. Create specific designs. Offer smoother or firmer hand. Add specific properties, such as: wrinkle resistance.

Greige Goods Refers to fabric right off the loom.

Dyeing Textiles Dyes Compounds that penetrate and color fibers. Different fibers require different types.

Methods of Dyeing Stock Solution Yarn Piece Product

Stock Dyeing – the dye is added to the loose fibers Solution Dyeing – the dye is added to the thick liquid before it is forced through the spinneret. Yarn Dyeing - yarns are dyed before being formed into fabric. Piece Dyeing – Color is added after the fabric has been made. Product Dyeing- the entire garment is dyed after it is constructed.

Kinds of Dyes Synthetic fiber dyes: dye depends on type of fiber Acid dyes: Acid producing compound is used in the dye bath. Used on wool, mohair, angora, and silk. Fiber reactive dyes: Dyes react to the molecules of fibers. Used on cotton, rayon, linen, hemp and silk. Disperse dye: used on polyester and acetate fibers.

Colorfast Color will remain in spite of washing, dry cleaning, perspiration, sunlight, or rubbing.

Printing Textiles Involves transferring color to the surface of a fabric to form a pattern of design.

Types of Printing Roller Screen Rotary Heat transfer Resist

Roller Printing Design is etched on copper rollers. Each color in design requires separate roller. Simple and fast. Expensive

Screen Printing Earliest known method. Uses a screen to transfer print. Different screen for each color.

Rotary Printing Combines both roller and screen printing methods.

Heat Transfer Dyes are first printed on paper. Paper is placed on fabric and with heat and pressure, the design is transferred to fabric. T-shirts are commonly printed with this method.

Resist Printing Resist printing involves a two- step procedure in which a design pattern is printed on a white or dyed fabric with chemical or wax that will prevent the dyes from penetrating the fabric. When the fabric is dyed, the color is absorbed only where there is no resist. Then the resist is removed. Resist Printing- uses wax or chemicals

Wood Block Printing Earliest form of printing Slowest method

Digital Printing Ink jet based method of printing colorants onto fabric.

Structural Design Woven directly into the fabric. Provides an interesting texture. Example: jacquards

Finishes Affecting Appearance and Texture Stone Washing Acid washing Napping Flocking Brushing Embossing

Stone Washing and Acid Dyes Stone Washing: Hugely popular in the 1980’s. Pumice stones used to create a faded fabric look. Acid Dyes: Introduced to produce same effects as stone washing. Not environmentally friendly.

Enzyme Washes or Bio-Stoning Less harmful for the environment. Various effects can be achieved. Can be used to soften fabric.

Napping Raises the fiber ends to the surface to be clipped, brushed, or left raised. Creates a softer, fuzzy texture to the fabric. Common fabrics include: fleece, suede flannel, corduroy, and velvet.

Flocking Surface design Applied to the fabric. Applying texture by depositing many small fiber particles onto a surface of fabric.

Brushing Mechanical Finish Fabric passed through wire rollers. Produces soft and fluffy fabric. Common fabric: fleece

Embossing Fabric is passed through engraved rollers. Creates a raised design. yJOb8XmjE

Performance Finishes Antimicrobial/Antibiotic/Antifungal Anti-static Durable press (Permanent Press) Shrinkage control/Sanfordized Mercerization Stain release/Stain resistant

Performance Finishes Water repellent and waterproof Flame-resistant Mildew resistance Moth resistance Wrinkle resistant/ Crease resistant

Antimicrobial/Antibiotic/Antifungal – this finish checks the growth of bacteria and fungi, such as mold and mildew. Antistatic - this finish reduces the fabric dryness that causes static electricity by absorbing small amounts of moisture from the air.

Shrinkage Control/Sanforized – shrinkage should be minimal,even after repeated launderings. Sanforized ® assures that the fabric won’t shrink more than one percent in washing. Mercerization – this finish gives cotton added luster, strength, and drapability. Stain Release/Stain Resistant – with these finishes dirt and stains remove more easily from fabrics.

Water Repellent – this finish is applied to tightly woven fabrics to help them resist water. The finish cannot resist heavy rain or long exposure to rain. Waterproof – are films or film- coated fabrics. No water can soak into these fabrics. Flame Resistant – as a fabric burns, this chemical finish works by cutting off the oxygen supply or changing the chemical makeup of the fibers. This causes the flame to extinguish itself.

Mildew Resistance – a metallic chemical is applied to prevent mildew. Moth Resistance – to repel moths and other fiber- eating insects, this finish is widely used on wool fibers. Wrinkle Resistance/Cease Resistant – they involve treating fabrics with resins, a special group of chemicals. Resins are “baked” onto cotton, rayon, and linen fabrics. They help fabrics resist wrinkles.

Sizing – Starch or resin is applied to fabrics to increase weight, body, and luster. Weighting – the addition of metallic salts to silk.

Innovations in Textiles Microfibers Polor fleece Bamboo fabric-biodegradable Lyocel (Tencel)- Made from wood pulp from trees grown in replanted forests. hing.co.uk/why_is_bam boo_better.html

Innovations in Textiles Microfibers- Made primarily of petroleum waste products, the material makes use of waste that would otherwise fill up landfills. Biocotton- developed fiber that is non-allergic. Nanotechnology- molecular structure of the chemicals used to form fibers has been altered.

Innovations in Textiles Micro Encapsulation Particles are filled with active ingredients and applied to the fabric or garment. Examples- moisturizers, insect repellents

Green Fabric Finishes Reduce the health and environmental impact by lowering the amount of chemicals and other harmful substances used in the finishing process.

Smart Fabrics E-textiles (Electronic Textiles) Fabrics that enable digital components to be embedded. Wearable technology

Careers Text ile chemist - a person with a chemistry background who works to develop new manufactured fibers and/or blend different fibers together to create new textile designs. Textile colorist – a person who works out different color combinations for new textile designs.

Careers Textile designer – a person who artistically creates textile patterns that can be incorporated into fabric design.