Vegetable Gardening Presented by Clint Probst, Member

Texas Gardening Regions

Veg Reg I Reg II Reg III Reg IV Reg V Asparagus After Mar 1 After Feb 15 After Feb 1 After Jan 15 Not Recommended Beans, snap bush Apr 15- May 15 Apr 1- May 5 Mar 5- May1 Feb 10- Apr 15 Feb1- Mar 15 Beans, snap pole Apr 15- May 1 Apr 1- May 1 Mar 5- Apr 15 Feb 10- Mar 15 Feb 1- Mar 15 Beans, Lima bush May 1- May 15 Apr 15- May 15 Mar 15- Apr 15 Mar 1- Apr 1 Feb 15- Apr 1 Beans, Lima pole May 1- May 15 Apr 15- May 15 Mar 15- Apr 15 Mar 1- Apr 1 Feb 15- Apr 1 Beets Mar 1- Jun 1 Feb 15- May 20 Feb 1- Mar 1 Jan 15- Apr 15 Jan 1- Mar 1 Broccoli Mar 1- Jun 15 Feb 15- Mar 20 Feb 1- Mar 1 Jan 15- Feb 25 Jan 1- Feb 15 Brussels sprouts Feb 15- Apr 1 Feb 15- Mar 10 Not Recommended Cabbage Mar 10- Apr 15 Feb 15- Mar 10 Feb 1- Mar 1 Jan 15- Feb 10 Jan 1- Feb 1 Carrots Mar 10- Apr 15 Feb 15- Mar 10 Jan 15- Mar 1 Jan 15- Feb 10 Jan 1- Feb 1 Spring Planting Guide

Cauliflower (transplant) Mar 1- Apr 15 Feb 15- Mar 10 Feb 1- Mar 1 Jan 15- Feb 15 Chard, Swiss Mar 1- Jun 1 Feb 15- May 1 Feb 1- Mar 10 Jan 15- Apr 1 Jan 1- Apr 1 Collards Mar 1- May 1 Feb 15- Apr 10 Feb 1- Mar 25 Jan 15- Mar 15 Jan 1- Mar 15 Corn, sweet Apr 1- May 20 Mar 15- May 1 Feb 25- May 1 Feb 15- Mar 15 Feb 1- Mar 15 Cucumber Apr 15- Jun 1 Apr 1- May 15 Mar 5- May 1 Feb 1- Apr 10 Feb 1- Apr 1 Eggplant May 10- Jun 1 Apr 10- May 1 Mar 15- May 1 Feb 20- Apr 1 Feb 1- Mar 15 Garlic (cloves) Jan 1- Jan 15 Not Recommended Kohlrabi Mar 1- Apr 15 Feb 15- Mar 1 Feb 1- Mar 1 Jan 15- Feb 15 Jan 1- Feb 15 Lettuce Mar 1- May 15 Feb 15- May 1 Feb 1- Mar 15 Jan 15- Mar 15 Jan 1- Mar 1 Muskmelon (cantaloupe) May 1- Jun1 Apr 10- May 1 Mar 15- May 1 Feb 20- Apr 15 Feb 1- Apr 1 Veg Reg I Reg II Reg III Reg IV Reg V

Spring Planting Guide Veg Reg I Reg II Reg III Reg IV Reg V Mustard Mar 1- May 15 Feb 15- May 1 Feb 1- Apr 1 Jan 15- Mar 15 Jan 1- Mar 1 Onion (plants) Mar 1- Apr 15 Feb 15- Mar 10 Feb 1- Mar 1 Jan 15- Feb 10 Jan 1- Feb 1 Parsley Mar 1- Apr 15 Feb 15- Mar 10 Feb 1- Mar 1 Jan 15- Feb 10 Jan 1- Feb 1 Peas, English Feb 15- Mar 15 Feb 15- Mar 1 Feb 1- Mar 1 Jan 15- Feb 1 Not Recommended Peas, Southern Jay 1- Jun 15 Apr 20- May 15 Mar 25- May 20 Mar 15- Apr 15 Mar 1- Apr 15 Pepper (transplant) May 10- Jun 1 Apr 10- May 1 Mar 15- May 1 Feb 20- Mar 10 Feb 1- Mar 10 Potato Mar 15- Apr 7 Mar 10- Apr 1 Feb 15- Mar 1 Jan 15- Feb 15 Jan 1- Feb 1 Potato, sweet (slips) May 15- Jun 15 Apr 25- May 15 Apr 10- May 15 Mar 15- May 10 Mar 1- Apr 15 Pumpkin May 15- Jun 1 Apr 25- May 20 Apr 1- Apr 20 Mar 10- May 1 Mar 1- Apr 1

Radish Mar 1- Apr 1 Feb 15- May 20 Feb 1- May 1 Jan 15- Apr 15 Jan 1- Apr 1 Spinach Mar 1- Apr 1 Feb 1- Mar 1 Jan 1- Feb 15 Jan 1- Feb 1 Squash, summer May 1- Jun 1 Apr 10- May 1 Mar 5- May 1 Feb 10- Apr 10 Feb 1- Apr 1 Squash, winter May 1- May 15 Apr 1- Apr 25 Mar 5- May 1 Feb 10- Apr 10 Feb 1- Apr 1 Tomato (transplant) May 10- Jun 1 Apr 10- May 1 Mar 15- Apr 10 Feb 20- Mar 10 Feb 10- Mar 10 Turnip Mar 1- Jun 1 Feb 15- May 20 Feb 1- Mar 10 Jan 15- Apr 15 Jan 1- Mar 1 Watermelon May 10- May 15 Apr 10- May 1 Mar 15- May 1 Feb 20- Apr 1 Feb 1- Apr 1 Veg Reg I Reg II Reg III Reg IV Reg V Spring Planting Guide

Fall Planting Guide Beans, snap bushJul 15Aug 1Sep 1Sep 10Oct 1 Beans, Lima bushJul 15Jul 25Aug 20Sep 1Sep 15 BeetsAug 15Sep 1Oct 15Nov 1Dec 15 BroccoliJul 15Aug 1Sep 1Oct 1Nov 1 Brussels sproutsJul 15Aug 1Sep 1Oct 1Nov 1 CabbageJul 15Aug 1Sep 1Oct 1Nov 1 CarrotsJul 15Aug 15Nov 10Nov20Dec 15 CauliflowerJul 15Aug 1Sep 1Oct 1Nov 1 Chard, SwissAug 1Aug 15Oct 1Oct 20Dec 15 CollardsAug 1Aug 15Oct 10Oct 20Dec 15 Corn, sweetJul 1Aug 10Aug 20Sep 10Sep 20 CucumberJul 15Aug 1Sep 1Sep 10Oct 1 EggplantJul 1Jun 15Jul 1Jul 10Aug 1 Garlic (cloves)JulAugOctNovDec KohlrabiAug 15Sep 1Sep 10Oct 1Nov 1 Veg Reg I Reg II Reg III Reg IV Reg V

Fall Planting Guide Lettuce, leafSep 1Sep 15Oct 10Nov 1Dec 1 MustardSep 1Oct 1Nov 1Dec 1Dec 15 Onion (seed)not recommended Nov 1Dec 1Dec 15 ParsleySep 15Oct 1Oct 10Nov 1Dec 1 Peas, southernJun 15Jul 1Aug 1Aug 15Sep 1 PepperJun 1Jun 15Jul 1Jul 15Aug 1 Potatonot recommended Aug 1Sep 1Oct 1not recommended PumpkinJun 1Jul 1Aug 1Aug 10Sep 1 RadishSep 1Oct 1Nov 25Dec 1Dec 15 SpinachAug 15Sep 1Nov 15Dec 1Dec 15 Squash, summerAug 1Aug 15Sep 10Oct 1Oct 10 Squash, winterJun 15Jul 1Aug 10Sep 1Sep 10 TomatoJun 1Jun 15Jul 1Jul 10Aug 1 TurnipSep 1Oct 15Nov 1Dec 1Dec 15 Veg Reg I Reg II Reg III Reg IV Reg V

Seed Starting Growing from seed not only gives you a much larger selection of vegetables and flowers to choose from – including unusual varieties you’re unlikely to find at a garden center – it also lets you get a jump on the growing season by starting many plants indoors. Generally speaking, annual flowers and vegetables are the easiest to grow, and their seeds germinate quickly. When to start seeds indoors is a little tricky: Check seed packets for “days to germinate” and how many weeks growth each variety of seedling needs before being transplanted to the garden, then count backwards from your area’s last frost date. (If you don’t know that date, call your extension service or ask a local nursery.) You don’t want to start too early, or your seedlings may grow weak and leggy. To get growing, you’ll need peat pots, pellets, plastic flats, egg cartons with holes poked in the bottom, or other shallow containers with good drainage; growing medium (a special soil-less mix for seeds is best); a plastic humidity cover or plastic bag; plus water, fertilizer, labels, warmth and light. If you re-use plastic pots or flats, make sure they are thoroughly clean – a couple of minutes in the microwave should sterilize them – before filling them with moistened mix to within ½-inch of top. Or use peat pellets, which expand when moistened and can be transplanted intact, without disturbing delicate roots. Whatever containers you use, place them in a waterproof tray so you can add water from the bottom, so seeds aren’t disturbed. Keep the mix damp, but not soggy.

Seed Starting Once seeds germinate, they need light. A sunroom or windowsill that gets lots of natural light (with daytime temperatures of 60 to 70 degrees F) might work, but most gardeners will need to put their seedlings under fluorescent or full-spectrum lights for 12 to 16 hours a day. Inexpensive “shop lights” will work fine. Position the lights immediately above the seedlings, and adjust upwards as the plants grow. When plants have two sets of true leaves, add half-strength liquid fertilizer such as fish emulsion to the watering tray once a week. Your young plants need to be hardened-off before you can transplant them into the outdoor garden. That means gradually adjusting them to the outdoors by setting them out in a sheltered, shady spot for a few hours a day. Each day, increase the time and the light exposure. Keep them watered, as small pots will dry out quickly outdoors. After a week to 10 days, plants should be ready to be transplanted into the garden – though you may still want to cover them with sheets of newspaper at night if temperatures are particularly cool. Plant seeds according to packet directions – generally, two or three times as deep as the seed’s diameter. Seeds that need light to germinate should barely be covered. Label each container with the plant name and variety, and date of sowing, then cover it with a humidity dome or place it in a plastic bag until seeds germinate – but allow for air circulation by not sealing the bag. Bottom warmth (75 to 85 degrees F) helps seeds germinate, so set trays on an electric heat mat, or atop a refrigerator or radiator.

Greenhouses A mini-greenhouse helps maintain warm temperatures in the soil and air, which aids in seed germination. Most mini-greenhouses have a plastic tray that holds soil or pots and clear plastic covering that allows in light. These greenhouses are usually used indoors, although you can also set them outside during sunny weather if the temperature is above freezing. The clear covering continues to allow light in after the seeds sprout, creating a greenhouse environment during the early plant growth period. The greenhouse to the left is mine, which I bought for $30 at a local discount retailer. Small walk-in greenhouses like the one to the left can be found in a current ad for $50

Top Left: Cabbage, Broccoli & Beet Seedlings in foreground, Lettuce in Egg Carton Top Right: Cucumber, Squash & Zucchini seedlings Left: Note the space heater…keeps greenhouse above 50 degrees at night Right: Pepper & Tomato Seedlings Real World Results With our short Texas growing season in the Spring, it’s important to get healthy seedlings planted immediately after our last frost date, traditionally March in the DFW area.

Raised Bed Gardening For space efficiency and high yields, it’s hard to beat a vegetable garden grown in raised beds. Raised beds can improve production as well as save space, time, and money. They also are the perfect solution for dealing with difficult soils such as heavy clay. In addition, raised beds improve your garden’s appearance and accessibility.vegetable gardensoilsclay One reason raised beds are so effective for increasing efficiency and yields is that crops produce better because the soil in the beds is deep, loose, and fertile. The quickest and easiest way to make a raised bed is simply to add lots of organic matter, such as well- rotted manure, compost, or shreddedleaves to your garden soil. In the process, mound up the planting beds as the organic content of the soil increases. organic mattercompostleaves My preferred method for raised bed gardening is to first remove the sod grass. Next, I line the edges with landscape timbers and add organic topsoil, composted manure and peat moss in equal parts. Some gardeners also add expanded shale (shown in my hand below), which helps keep soil aerated. We keep a large composter going all year. All garden waste from gardening, mowing and pruning as well as organic household waste is composted. Note: it is not a good idea to compost meat, dairy, or feces from carnivores. Our composter provides enough organic content to keep 2 raised beds rich in organic compost and mulch year-round.