The Art of the Cold Kitchen Garde Manger The Art of the Cold Kitchen

What are objectives? Demonstrate the proper techniques for brining. Explain the difference between cold smoking, hot smoking and smoke roasting Understand what is a forcemeat, and terrine. Understand the ratios used in aspic, and mousse Demonstrate the proper technique for preparing: sausages, terrines and savory mousse

The professional Garde Manger Originally term referred to a cold or cool storage area hams, sausages, cheeses Pates, terrines Cold smoked food Cold foods were also prepared here Evolved to become a position in the kitchen

Brining Why would you want to brine something? Tenderizes Adds Flavor Adds moisture Especially useful for items that will have a long cook time But works wonderfully with quick cook items as well

Classic formula 4 gal. Water 1 lb salt 1 lb sugar 1 gal of ice Heat I gal of water add salt sugar and any other flavorings. Dissolve salt and sugar add the 3 gal cold water and ice to chill the brine.

How long do we brine? Chicken or duck breast 24/36 hrs Chicken whole 24/36 hrs Pork butt or loin 5/6 days Turkey whole 5/6 days Corn brisket 7/8 days Ham boneless 4 days Ham bone-in 20/24 days

Can we cut back that time? Large items can be injected with brine using a brine pump with an injection needle Use 10% of the items weight in brine

Drying Many items could be cured, cold smoked then air-dried Temperature and humidity have to be monitored closely If done right items can be stored at room temperature, Why? Cured food should be dried before cold smoking Under refrigeration 2 – 3 days allow pellicle to form Give product a tacky but glossy surface, allow smoke to adhere more easily

Curing What is curing Why would I do it Curing is the generic term for: Brining Pickling Corning solutions Dry curing Why would I do it Adds flavor Removes moisture Preservation Long cold smoke times

Dry curing Can be as simple as salt alone Usually a sweetener and other flavorings are added Overhauling product packed in cure that is turned and recovered periodically Cures can be made on site or commercial products may be purchased Insta cure #1 TCM – tinted curing mixture Insta cure #2 Prague powder

Dry cure times for meat ¼” thick approximate 1 -2 hours 1” thick lean meat 3 – 8 hours 1 1/2” thick (pork belly) 7 – 10 days Ham, bone in (15 -18 lbs) 40 -45 days

Smoking! Why do we do it? There are three types Originally for preservation Discovered interesting flavor from smoke Flavors can be manipulated by amount and types of wood There are three types Cold hot Smoke-roasting

Cold smoke What items are suitable for cold smoking Items that will be air dried Items that have been cured (salt) Items that are to be further cooked What temperature do we cold smoke at 100° or less Over 100° the denaturing of the proteins will radically change the texture Think baked salmon vs. smoked salmon

Hot smoking Exposes food to smoke and heat source Often food is reheated before service but it is not required Temperature range of 165° - 185°

Smoke roasting Refers to any method that has the attributes of both smoking and roasting This is what barbecue is all about Traditionally done between 200° - 250°

FORCEMEATS

What is a forcemeat? Meat that has been ground and mixed with other ingredients to make a filling

Sausages Comes from the word salsus Means salt Ancient Roman and Greeks manufactured sausage form anything available as early as the 9th century b.c.e.

Sausages Smoked Poached Dried and fermented Hot or cold smoked Cold smoke needs additives to prevent bacteria growth Poached Do not let water boil or emulsion will break Dried and fermented

How do you make them? Basic ratio is 70% meat 30% fat If you do not have enough fat product will be dry You may need to do a progressive grind Start off with a larger plate then each time you put a smaller plate on grinder and pass through It is critical that all equipment be clean, sanitized and COLD Process of going through grinder causes friction which in turn raises the temperature of your product

Aspic gelee Clear coating sauce for platters or products Adding the proper amount of gelatin to clarified liquid to achieve desired consistency Stock Juices essences

What are the proper ratios Per gal per pint gel strength 2 oz/57 g ¼ oz 7g delicate 4oz /113g ½ oz/14 g coating gel 6-8 oz/170-227 g 1 oz/28g sliceable gel 10-12 oz/284-300g 1 ¼ -1 ½ oz firm gel 16 oz/454g 2 oz/57g mousse strength

gel strength Delicate coating gel sliceable gel firm gel Slicing not required individual portions, jellied consommés coating gel Coating individual items sliceable gel When product will be sliced filling pate en croute firm gel Coating platters for display mousse strength When product must retain shape

How to work with powdered gelatin Weigh gelatin carefully Scatter gelatin over cool liquid, avoid clumps, if liquid is warm gelatin will not soften properly Bloom gelatin as the gelatin blooms the granules absorb moisture and become enlarged Melt gelatin Over hot water bath Or add bloomed gelatin to warm liquid 100°-110°