T. Scott† P. Russell†, G. Masselink∞, and A. Wooler‡ † School of Earth, Ocean and Environmental Sciences, University of Plymouth, PL4 8AA, UK ∞ School.

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Presentation transcript:

T. Scott† P. Russell†, G. Masselink∞, and A. Wooler‡ † School of Earth, Ocean and Environmental Sciences, University of Plymouth, PL4 8AA, UK ∞ School of Geography, University of Plymouth, PL4 8AA, UK ‡ Royal National Lifeboat Institution West Quay Road, BH15 1HZ, UK University of Plymouth: PhD data use Beach morphodynamics and hazards 3 rd Annual Meeting: South West Regional Coastal Monitoring Programme

Research themes UK Beach Classification Beach type and hazards Rip current dynamics and hazard UK Beach and Hazard assessment (RNLI / UoP / MCS) INTRODUCTION

Study sites (2007): 120 beach sites 4 regions UK BEACH CLASSIFICATION Data types: Wave climate Beach morphology Sediment size Data sources: University of Plymouth Channel Coastal Observatory MetOffice University of Wales Bangor Environment Agency

Wave climate (2007) principal data source: CCO directional wave buoys 10 buoys locations (H s10%, H s50%, T m, T p ) where not available: MetOffice UK waters wave model output MIKE21 SW wave model output: Representative wave climate for each beach UK BEACH CLASSIFICATION

Beach profiles (Autumn 2007) data sources: (SW and S England coasts) CCO interim topographic surveys University of Plymouth beach surveys CCO LIDAR (E England and NW Wales) Environment Agency UWB output: Sample profile geometries for each beach UK BEACH CLASSIFICATION

Sediments (Autumn 2007) UK BEACH CLASSIFICATION Multiple sediment samples collected for each beach in the S and SW of England

UK BEACH CLASSIFICATION Data Analysis Identification of 13 UK beach types Conceptual morphodynamic framework

BEACH TYPE AND HAZARDS Study sites ( ): 9 beach monitoring sites, Devon and Cornwall Wave climate: Perranporth nearshore directional wave buoy (H s10%, H s50%, T m, T p )

BEACH TYPE AND HAZARDS Beach morphology University of Plymouth monthly RTK-GPS surveys PCO topographic surveys (baseline and interim) PCO LIDAR data PCO aerial imagery

BEACH TYPE AND HAZARDS Beach hazard scenarios Identification of high hazard scenarios and RNLI ‘mass rescue’ events Wave climate from Perranporth nearshore wave buoy

RIP CURRENTS Rip experiment (August 2008) Dynamics of high hazard tidal rip systems at Perranporth Perranporth directional wave buoy provided deep water wave forcing during experiment

SUMMARY Data made available by the Regional Coastal Monitoring Programmes have formed an integral part of the presented PhD research A multitude of projects concerning coastal geomorphology, oceanography and engineering within the University of Plymouth make use and in many cases rely upon the data stream initiated and maintained through the South West Regional Coastal Monitoring Programme