Croquis and Language of Fashion

Croquis Sketch of a live model Method of drawing a fashion figure Too tall in comparison to the real models 9 heads tall Magazine models are closer to 8 heads

Croquis guidelines Head consumes space between 0 and 1 Chest starts at 1.5- always leans one direction Waist is at 3 heads Pelvis starts at 3.25 and goes just below 4 heads- slanted other direction Knees are at 6.5 heads Ankle at 8.5 heads Foot touches floor at 9 heads Elbows are at 2.5 heads Hands extend to 5 heads

Example Follow with me as I go through this example. Take your transparency and marker, place over your croquis and copy. Wipe your transparency and try again.

Practice On graph paper… draw a line 9 units long Follow the guidelines to draw a head. Draw an entire croquis Draw another one. DRAW TWO GREAT CROQUIS, leaning opposite ways, on a plain sheet of paper- 9 inches tall (each one)- you will be keeping these ones

Fleshing out Add flesh to the sides of your model to determine their size… the proportions never change no matter the size of the person. Remember when designing clothes, rarely are they skin tight

Example Follow with me as I go through this example. Take your transparency and marker, place over your croquis and copy. Flesh out your croquis. Wipe your transparency and try again.

Next Flesh out your croquis on your graph paper and your larger ones

Why?? These are the basis for drawing clothes on models. We need to practice, but it is more important to be able to draw clothes.

Why?? These are the basis for drawing clothes on models. We need to practice, but it is more important to be able to draw clothes. Draw two models- these will be yours to use in class. Nice and big Slanting opposite directions Flesh out

See your packet CLOTHING

Warm-Up Describe the type of clothing you are wearing today. What style of shirt, pants, shoes, prints? Describe the textures and colors as well.

Terms Haute couture- the leading establishments or designers of fashion Create exclusive items Ready to Wear- mass produced, factory made, finished clothing More commonly worn Calvin Klien, Ralph Lauren

Sleeves Set-in Raglan Kimono Use the text book to compare and contrast the three styles of sleeves. Talk about what they have in common (length) and what is different and unique about each one as compared to the others.

Collar styles Button-down- has points in the collar that button to the shirt Convertible- has a lapel, which is a pointed part of garment below the collar Stock- resembles an ascot, which is an accessory added at the neck like a necktie Jabot- used to be made of lace or a ruffle

Dresses Sheath- no waistline seam, inward shaping at waist Shift- straight and loose fitting, no inward shape A-line- narrow at shoulders, wider at hem Tent- large and billowy, hang loose from shoulders

Dresses (cont) Empire- high waistline Lowered waistline- long torso, waist at hips Princess- seamlines going up and down entire length, no horizontal seam Blouson- blousy fullness, belted, fitted skirt

Dresses (cont.) Shirtwaist- long, semi-fitted, tailored shirt, belt or sash at waist Coatdress- heavy, closes at front like a coat Asymmetrical- surplice closing, diagonal overlap to one side Jumper (over clothing) or sundress (hot weather)- brief bodice, shoulder straps and low neckline

Neckline styles Décolleté- used with bare shoulders Jewel (round)- encircles base of neck Boat- straight across shoulder to shoulder, high in front Scoop- lowered and round, high in back Horseshoe- high on neck in back, U-shaped and low in front Cowl- draped with flowing folds

Skirt styles Straight- no added fullness, slim silhouette A-line- extra width at hem on each side Flared- fullness at hem all the way around, soft ripples Circular- very full at hem, skirt forms a half circle when held out on sides

Pleating vs. gathering Pleats- structured folds in the cloth Gathered- pulled together at waist without folds

Skirt styles (cont) Gored- vertical seams, panels are created, notice resemblance to the princess dress Umbrella- many narrow gores Wrap- overlap at side back or side front Waist band- band of fabric that that goes around waist and fastens with button or hook and eye

Coat, jacket or cape? Coat- warm and weatherproof, worn over regular clothing Jacket- same as a coat, except it is short Capes- hang from neck and shoulders, no arm holes, restricts movement

Features Wrap- no buttons, just a tie Coachman- notice princess seams Box- look at the shape Bolero- cut above the waist Single breasted- one row of buttons Double breasted- two rows of buttons

Pants Inseam- important when measuring and hemming Tapered- narrower at hem than knee Straight- some width at knee Flared- wider at hem than at knee Hip-hugger- lower than regular waistline Gauchos- wide tubes

Cap and French sleeves They are very short Nearly a sleeveless shirt, but with a short kimono-like sleeve going out from shoulder.

Sleeve applications Cuff- band at the bottom of the sleeve Vent- opening from end of cuff into the sleeve Placket- decorative strip of fabric over the vent

Clothing applications Pocket- build in envelopes Tab- goes on the edge of pockets Flap- decorative pieces that fall over openings Yokes- band or shaped piece that gives support and shape to rest of garment below.

Blouses/Shirts tank mandarin fitted western surplice princess with peplum wrap jewel-shell camisole scoop shell v-shell camp shirt peasant blouse sport shirt bib front square yoke-front

Blouses/Shirts continued bowed Victorian 2 ruffle neck prairie middy/sailor painter’s smock yoke variation yoke variation yoke variation smock Elizabethan tunic yoke variation yoke variation yoke variation Kimono variation asymmetrical caplet pleat smock variation

Blouse/Shirt Back Variations inverted pleated gathered yoke double knife pleat

Shirt Styles continued dress Polo T-shirt Hawaiian

Neckline and Collar Styles jewel/round crew keyhole asymmetricalone-shoulder strapless bateau/boat/Sabrina wide scoop low wide scoop U scoop wide draped square v-neck décolletté halter variation bib slit henley cardigan sweetheart split variation

Neckline and Collar Styles cont. mandarin/Nehru ruff banded ruff ruffles pointed collar with stand ascot jabot bow tie bowed shawl notched portrait turtle neck wide cowl bateau roll shawl cowl peter pan platter Oliver/puritan Italian roll

Neckline and Collar Styles cont. reverse chelsea button down convertible notched middy sailor tuxedo pointed flat wing band tuxedo

Sleeve Styles ¾ flounce ¾ length halter sleeveless cap/French pinafore ruffle set-in long set-in long fitted short set-in petal gathered butterfly cap tailored shirt trumpet/ puffed kimono roll-up bell pagoda bishop puffed cape melon/ lantern raglan balloon

Sleeve Styles continued leg-of-mutton Juliette drop-shoulder dolman button notched French cuff cuff batwing dolman ruffle cuff button-tab & fitted cuff epaulet cowl gauntlet shoulder gathered plain barrel ruffled band flange binding band angel peasant

Skirt Styles mini straight pegged A-line 6- gore sheath A-line straight trouser 6-gore 4-gore 8-gore circular trumpet flare flare dirndl Bouffant/ prairie tiered gathered

Skirt Styles continued knife pleat/soft A-line stitched-down stitched-down umbrella pleat front pleat knife pleat soft unpressed unpressed pleat center pleat 4-gore inverted box pleat box cluster pleat kilt hip-stitched pleat 6-gore inverted box pleat sarong variation center front slit side slit side wrap

Skirt Styles continued no waistband yoke “V” yoke partial yoke peplum draped-hip

Pants Style bikini hot boy shorts pleat safari Jamaica culottes Bermuda walking deck pant culottes petal knickers shorts pushers gaucho gaucho with cropped no hip hugger elasticized cuff waistband

Pants Style continued jogging drawstring capri pegged stirrup straight leg jeans gathered yoke pleat- bell- flared front bottom palazzo harem tapered leggings

Pants Style continued overalls jumpsuit flared jumpsuit

Skirt and Pant Lengths Bikini Short shorts Mini Short Shorts Above knees Bermuda shorts Knee Length Pedal pushers Below knees Calf Gaucho pants Tea Length Maxi Cropped pants Ankle Evening Classic Length Floor

Dress Styles sheath Shift knit A-line flare or chemise sweater high- waist princess line dropped waist tent shoulder yoke smock caftan surplice coat dress fitted basic sheath pointed blouse dress bouffant variation V-waist shirtwaist princess blouson blouse dress

Dress Styles continued midriff yoke empire float drop-waist flare drop-waist pleat hip-line yoke pinafore tabard tunic jumper strapless slip dress banded jumper shoulder drape asymmetrical drop-waist jumper asymmetrical shirtwaist shirtwaist peasant pioneer/prairie

Jacket and Coat Styles cardigan tuxedo swagger wrap cape A-line classic straight chesterfield balmacaan duffle sport cape top princess directairè trench coat polo coachman reefer variation

Jacket and Coat Styles cont. bolero dressmaker box Channel aviation/bomber short blazer high-hip fitted blazer cap sleeve cardigan loose unlined A-line wrap safari straight blazer semi-fitted blazer fitted blazer variation princess-line blazer hacking

Jackets and Coat Styles cont. double breasted pea jacket shawl stole poncho caplet vest bomber elastic waist jacket drawstring quilted parka parka windbreaker

Sweaters variation patchwork summer pullover cable crew V-neck bateau round neck turtle neck cowl neck dolman cardigan shawl sweater set double breasted

Vests bolero weskit short classic fitted unfitted weskit high hip shawl collar square high hip unfitted square low hip/crotch length tabard jerkin fitted waist high hip pullover low hip pullover cardigan high-hip low-hip gathered waist belted wrap button front drop-shoulder drop-shoulder variation

Vests continued fashion vest Oriental drop-shoulder

Design Details waist border print hip border print hip border print hem border print small vertical stripe small horizontal stripe narrow vertical stripe narrow horizontal stripe medium horizontal stripe medium vertical stripe wide vertical stripe wide horizontal stripe

Design Details small plaid medium plaid large plaid small print medium print large print A-line piping yoke piping jacket trim

Assignment Find 3 models in a magazine Cut out and mount Identify ALL of the clothing pieces (specific type of shirt and skirt, dress, shoes) and write them next to your example