3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax SYNTHALEN CR 3V Silk Road To Water Resistance
3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax PRESENTATION ISSUES: Some General Properties Application in Cosmetics Application in Skin Care Emulsions: Sun Care Self-Tanning AHA Based Emulsions “In Vitro” Water Resistance Data Sensorial Data SYNTHALEN CR: The silk Road To WR
3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax CHEMICAL AND PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS Appearancewhite to beige powder pH (1% water dispersion) Bulk density g/cm3 Viscosity of water dispersions INCI Name:Polyquaternium-37 %Viscosity Spindle (Brookfield RVT, 20 rpm, 25°C) SYNTHALEN CR – General properties
3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax SYNTHALEN CR: The silk Road To WR Toxicological Profile Acute tox (oral, rat):LD50 > 2000 mg/kg Acute skin irritation (rabbit):non irritant Acute eye irritation (rabbit):non irritant Skin sensitization (maximization test): non sensitizing Ames Test: non mutagenic (with and without metabolic activation)
3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax Cationic emulsions are well known in the art thanks to their unique skin feel that is less tacky and more powdery than that of non- ionic and anionic ones. They can also help to improve the water resistance of the finished cosmetics, very important parameter in the case of emulsions for baby and sun care. Synthalen CR works very better in these systems and the data reported in this presentation will show that it is a versatile and cost-efficient alternative to other possible thickeners compatible with cationic environments. SYNTHALEN CR – Skin Care Emulsions
3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax High SPF formulations Water Resistance Photostable UV Filters UV-A Protection Oil free Quick Absorption / Drying and lack of Greasiness Sun Care Trends in the European Market
3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax WR Evaluation Outstanding Performance at low concentration
3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax SYNTHALEN CR: The silk Road To WR Cosmetic emulsion once applied onto the skin has a certain tendency to be re-emulsified when comes in contact with water. This tendency depends on: Kind of emulsion (O/W, W/O) Nature of emulsifier Amount of emulsifier Oil / Water Ratio Addition of specific ingredients
3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax Water Resistance: A key factor in sun protection in order to avoid re- emulsification of sun filters in contact with water, sweat, and so to assure a constant protection against UV Radiation. SYNTHALEN CR: The silk Road To WR
3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax SYNTHALEN CR: The silk Road To WR How to Evaluate Water Resistance: water resistant: SPF after 40 minutes of activity in water is more than 50% of initial SPF very water resistant: SPF after 80 minutes of activity in water is more than 50% of initial SPF EU: In Vivo test according to Colipa Guideline (2005) US: In Vivo test according to FDA Method For Product claimed WR or VWR, the SPF on the label is the SPF determined after 40 or 80 minutes of activity in water
3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax Use Of W/O emulsion Use of high Oil / Water Ratio Use of low level of hydrophilic emulsifiers (e.g: anionic, ethoxylated, etc) Use of silicones or high molecular weight emollients Use of hydrophobic film-forming polymers How to formulate Water Resistant Emulsion: SYNTHALEN CR: The silk Road To WR
3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax SYNTHALEN CR: The silk Road To WRc Mechanism Water Resistant Additives:
3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax SYNTHALEN CR: The silk Road To WR Disadvantages of Old Fashioned WR Additives: Last Generation of WR actives work by creating a hydrophobic film of a high MW oil soluble polymer (usually a polyolefin) on the skin surface this. This kind of mechanism has some disadvantages: Negative effect on sensoriality of formulations Difficulties in formulating Occlusive effect on the skin Requires Hot Process
3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax SYNTHALEN CR: The silk Road To WR SYNTHALEN CR is an innovative solution for improving substantivity and water resistance of skin care formulation without using lipophilic ingredients: This hydrophilic polymer, thanks to its high MW and high cationic charge density, is able to create a not occlusive film that prevents the active ingredients (eg UV filters) washing off from the skin surface. The cationic nature of SYNTHALEN CR is the key for understanding its excellent substantivity to the skin and its unique sensorial profile. Application Patented by 3V SIGMA
3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax SYNTHALEN CR: The silk Road To WR In this test method, 100 mg of a sunscreen is applied on a glass sheet (50 cm 2 ) covered with a 3M Transpore Surgical Tape 1527 using a gloved finger. After 20’ glass sheet is immersed in water at 25 ± 1°C circulating to stimulate moderate activity. After 20’ of immersion the glass sheet is allowed to dry for 20’. The immersion/drying cycle is repeated to a total immersion time of 40’ (two immersions) and 80’ (four immersions). The same quantity is applied to another glass sheet as control. The composition is, then, removed from the tapes with ethanol. The Uvasorb HEB content of the two alcoholic solutions is measured by UV spectroscopy. The ratio of the absorbance values of the immersed and non-immersed glass sheets gives the UV filter retention. An average percentage retention is calculated from the results of 4 trials. In Vitro WR Test
3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax I PEG-100 Stearate 0.40 Glyceryl Stearate 0.50 Dimethicone 1.00 Stearyl Alcohol 3.00 C Alkyl Benzoate 2.00 Uvasorb HEB 3.00 BHT 0.10 Benchmark A - II H 2 O up to 100 SYNTHALEN CR 0.30 Carbomer - 3V Allantoin (Allantoin) 0.20 Glycerin 3.00 III AMP qs Phenoxyethanol and Parabens 1.00 Parfum up to qs up to qs SYNTHALEN CR: The silk Road To WR In Vitro WR Test
3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax SYNTHALEN CR: The silk Road To WR Synthalen CR is able to achieve Outstanding WR at only 0,3%! In Vitro WR Test
3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax SYNTHALEN CR: The silk Road To WR I. Distearyl Dimonium Chloride 3.00 Glyceryl Stearate 1.00 BHT0.10 Cetyl Alcohol 1.00 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 4.00 Ethylhexyl Palmitate 4.00 Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate Dicaprate 2.00 Uvasorb HEB 3.00 I.H2Oup to 100 SYNTHALEN CR0.30 3V Allantoin (Allantoin)0.20 Glycerin 3.00 III.Phenoxyethanol & Parabens 1.20 In Vitro WR Test Viscosity (Brookfield RVT, 20 rpm, 25°C):26000 mPa·s pH:5.5-6
3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax SYNTHALEN CR: The silk Road To WR In Vitro WR Test Non Ionic EM Cationic EM
3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax Sensory Evaluation Because Water Resistance not always means Tackiness
3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax Others littlemuch Cushion little much Distribution difficult easy Absorption slow fast Oiliness much little Waxiness much little Tackiness much little Smoothness little much Softness little much Formulation with 0,3% Synthalen CR vs Formulation with Benchmark A (0-line) SYNTHALEN CR: The silk Road To WR Sensory Evaluation 10 Volunteers, 23°C, 45% relative humidity.
3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax SYNTHALEN CR: The silk Road To WR Sensory Evaluation Synthalen CR thanks to its cationic conditioning nature has the ability of improving the skin feel of formulations by: Reducing oiliness and tackiness sensation Improving Cushion during application An outstanding dry and silky after feel The sensorial propriety can be easily perceived in simple gel of polymer in water
3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax Stabilizing Effect A wide compatibility with most common chemical and mineral UV-filter and a unique stabilizing effect
3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax THICKENING PROPERTIES Viscosity vs. concentration Brookfield RVT, 20 rpm, 25°C % of polymer Viscosity (mPas)
3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax Viscosity vs. pH 1% water dispersion THICKENING PROPERTIES pH Viscosity (mPas) Brookfield RVT, 20 rpm, 25°C
3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax SUSPENDING ABILITY 0.5 rpm – 1.0 rpm Yield Value (mPa): 100 Brookfield RVT, 25°C Viscosity of dispersions: ~10000 mPa·s Synthalen K Synthalen L Synthalen M PNC 400PNC 430 Stabylen 30 Synthalen W2000 Synthalen CR Yield Value (mPa)
3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax EFFECT OF TEMPERATURE Viscosity vs. temperature 1% water dispersion Temperature (°C) Viscosity (mPa?s)
3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax SYNTHALEN CR – Application in Cosmetics Hair Fixative and/or Conditioning Gels Clear Rinse-Off and Leave-On Conditioners Rinse-Off and Leave-On Conditioning 0/W Emulsions Ethanol Based Products O/W Emulsions for Wet Wipes Gels and O/W Emulsions for Sun Care Gels and O/W Emulsions for Skin Care Self-Tanning Gels and O/W Emulsions
3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax Compatibility with micronised ZnO; Compatibility with TiO2; O/W emulsions with cationic emulsifiers; O/W emulsions with non-ionic emulsifiers; SYNTHALEN CR – Skin Care Emulsions Applications in Sun Care O/W Emulsions
3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax Applications in Sun Care O/W Emulsions
3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax Applications in Sun Care O/W Emulsions
3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax * Calculated SPF
3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax The pH range of application of SYNTHALEN CR is very large: from 2 to 9, then it finds its natural application in self tanning products containing DHA, where a low pH is necessary to assure to the finished cosmetics a good shelf life SYNTHALEN CR – Skin Care Emulsions Applications in Self-Tanners
3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax * Calculated SPF
3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax AHAs are a group of natural and physiological substances, which can modulate skin keratinization and increase biosynthesis of dermal components. They find application in moisturizers, cleansers, sunscreens, anti-wrinkle creams, foundation creams. They work best at a pH between 3 and 4 (3.5 is the minimum pH recommended by the FDA, while the European SCCP recommends a minimum pH of 3.8 in the case of glycolic acid). SYNTHALEN CR works very well in AHAs based emulsions. Emulsions with a large range of viscosity value (from fluid to medium/high viscosity) can be prepared, characterised by very high storage stability, excellent water resistance and sensorial characteristics. SYNTHALEN CR – Skin Care Emulsions Applications in AHA-Based O/W Emulsions
3V Sigma S.P.A. Via Torquato Tasso Bergamo Italy Tel Fax