Wave Formation and Types

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Presentation transcript:

Wave Formation and Types Coasts Wave Formation and Types

By the end of the lesson I will Lesson Objective: To be able to understand what the term coastal system means To be able to list the 3 different factors affecting the size of a wave To be able to identify the 2 different types of wave and their characteristics Learning outcomes By the end of the lesson I will Have completed a coastal system diagram Have identified the characteristics of the two different types of waves I am learning this because The coastal system is important to understand as it affects human activity at the coast I will need to be able to explain the different wave characteristics in my assessments I will know if I am successful I can Explain the coastal system by comparing it to baking a cake List the 3 factors affecting the size of a wave Compare the characteristics of constructive and destructive waves

What is the coastal system? INPUTS Waves Wind Tides PROCESSES Erosion Transportation Deposition OUTPUTS Headlands Bays Cliffs Caves Arches Stacks Beaches Dunes Salt marshes

Are all water waves the same?

Wave formation Is due to the wind blowing across the top of the water, causing friction, making the water move and forming waves. When a wave approaches shore the friction at its base will slow it down, but as the top is still travelling at the same speed, it will topple over.

Big Waves Wave height and energy are affected by; wind speed, wind duration and fetch.

What do you notice about the biggest waves?

Wave movement When waves move across the sea they follow a circular orbit. When they reach the coast line, friction on the sea bed causes the wave bottom to slow down, and the wave top to break.

As the water travels up the beach it is called the swash and as it returns to the sea it is called the backwash

Two types of breaking waves Breaking waves can be constructive or destructive. Constructive waves are only a meter high and have low energy. They are common in summer or during calm weather. The gently push sand onshore and form steep beaches.

Two types of breaking waves Destructive waves are very powerful storm waves, which can be 5 or 6 meters high. They remove sand from the shore and create flat beaches. They can also erode the toughest cliff rocks!