© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Chapter 28 Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements

© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Objectives Explain monomer liquid and polymer powder nail enhancement chemistry and how it works. Describe the apex, stress area, and sidewall and where they are located on the nail enhancement. Demonstrate proper procedures for applying one color monomer liquid and polymer powder nail enhancements over tips and on natural nails.

© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Demonstrate the proper procedures for applying two- color monomer liquid and polymer powder nail enhancements using forms over tips and natural nails. Describe how to perform a one-color maintenance service using monomer liquid and polymer powder. Demonstrate how to perform crack repair procedures. Demonstrate how to properly remove monomer liquid and polymer powder. Objectives (continued)

© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Acrylic vs. Monomer/Polymer Nail enhancements based on mixing liquids (monomers) and powders (polymers) have been known for years as “acrylic” nails. The term acrylic actually refers to an entire family of thousands of different substances such as contact lenses, cements, and Plexiglas®, etc.monomerspolymers

© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder (ML/PP) To be as accurate as possible, the text uses monomer liquid and polymer powder when referencing what for years has been called acrylic. During this presentation it will be referred to as ML/PP.

© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. ML/PP Composition Monomer –Mono means “one” and “mer” means "unit." –A monomer is one unit called a molecule. Polymer –Poly means “many.” –Polymer means "many units or molecules.”

© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Basic Applications Monomer liquid and polymer powder products can be applied in three basic ways: Over the natural nail Over a nail tip Over a flexible form A natural-hair, pointed, round, or oval application brush is the best brush to use for applying these products. The brush is immersed in the monomer liquid. The natural hair bristles absorb and hold the liquid like a reservoir. The tip of the brush is then touched to the surface of the dry polymer powder; as the monomer liquid absorbs the powder, a small bead of product forms. This bead is then carefully placed on the nail surface and molded into shape with the brush.

© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Monomer Liquid Three versions of monomer liquids Ethyl methacrylate (EMA) “odorless monomer liquids” Methyl methacrylate (MMA) “not recommended and is illegal in some states according to State board rules” Odorless

© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. ML/PP Process Immerse brush in monomer. Bristles absorb monomer. Touch brush tip into polymer. Small bead is formed. Place bead on nail surface. Mold bead with brush.

© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Monomer Liquid Bead Mix Ratio 1 part ML + 1 part PP = Dry bead 1.5 parts ML + 1 part PP = Medium bead 2 parts ML + 1 part PP = Wet bead

© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Polymerization Additives : Special additives are blended into liquid and powder to ensure complete set or cure, maximum durability, color stability, shelf life, and so on. Pigments : Polymer powders are usually blended with pigments and colorants to create a wide range of shades, including pinks, whites, milky translucents, and even reds, blues, greens, purples, yellows, oranges, browns, and jet black Beads : When liquid is picked up by a brush and mixed with powder, it forms a bead on the end of the brush that begins to harden. Catalysts :The monomer and polymer bead is shaped and begins to harden; however, the bead needs help, which it gets through additives called catalysts and initiators. A catalyst speeds up chemical reaction and is used in monomer liquids to control the set or curing time. The catalyst energizes and activates the intiators. Initiators: Initiators start a chain reaction that leads to the creation of long polymer chains. The initiator causes monomer molecules to permanently link long polymer chains.Initiators

© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Polymerization Continued Benzoyl peroxide : This initiator starts the chain reaction that leads to curing the nail enhancement. It consists of the same ingredient used in over-the-counter acne medicine. Combining products: Different products use different amounts of BPO; thus, it is very important to always use the polymer powder that was designed for the monomer liquid being used. Products used incorrectly can result in service breakdown or skin irritation and sensitivity.

© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Products and Supplies Monomer liquid: The monomer liquid is combined with polymer powder to form the sculptured nail. Polymer powder: Polymer powder is available in white, clear, natural, pink, and many other colors. Nail dehydrator: A nail dehydrator removes surface moisture and tiny amounts of oil left on the natural nail plate, both of which can block adhesion. Nail primer: Acid-based nail primer (methacrylic acid) once was widely used to help adhere enhancements to the natural nail. Since this type of nail primer is corrosive to the skin and potentially dangerous to eyes, “acid-free’’ and “nonacid primers’’ were developed. These are the types of primers that are most often used today.

© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Abrasives: Select a medium grit (180 to 240) for natural nail preparation and initial shaping. Choose a medium grit for smoothing and a fine buffer (350 grit or higher) for final buffing. A three-way buffer is used to create a high shine on the enhancement when no polish is worn. If you avoid putting the product on too thickly, a 180 grit is usually enough to shape the nail enhancement. Avoid using coarser (lower-grit) abrasives or aggressive techniques on freshly applied enhancement products, as they can damage the freshly created nail enhancement Nail forms: are placed under the free edge and used to extend the nail enhancements beyond the fingertip for additional length. Product and Supplies Continued

© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Nail tips Dappen dish Nail brush Safety eyewear Dust masks Protective gloves Products and Supplies (continued)

© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Products and Supplies (continued)

© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Storing Products Store in covered containers. Store in cool, dark area away from heat. Discard used materials. Avoid skin contact. Dispose of according to local rules.

© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Maintenance Maintenance helps prevent lifting or cracking. Breaks and cracks are repaired by filing the area and adding ML/PP to it. Proper maintenance must be performed every two to three weeks. The nail is thinned down, the apex of the nail is removed, and the entire nail enhancement is reduced in thickness.

© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Maintenance (continued)

© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Special Nail Enhancement Terms Apex or arch Stress area Sidewall Nail extension underside Thickness C Curve Length

© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Odorless Product Chemistry Different chemistry than other ML/PPs Have a slight odor Used with a dry mix ratio

© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Odorless Product Differences Forms a firm, glossy bead Brush wiped frequently Brush never reset with monomer liquid Hardens more slowly Creates a tacky layer Inhibition layer removed with alcohol, acetone, or filing

© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. ML/PP Colors Basic pink White Clear Natural Customized

© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Practical Procedures Pre- and Post-Service Procedures One-Color ML/PP Over Tips Two-Color ML/PP Using Forms One-Color ML/PP Maintenance Crack Repair for MLPP ML/PP Enhancement Removal

© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Summary and Review What is the chemistry behind ML/PP and how does it work? Define apex, stress area, and sidewall and explain where they are located.

© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. What is the proper procedure for applying one-color ML/PP enhancements over tips or natural nails? What is the proper procedure for applying two-color ML/PP enhancements using forms? Summary and Review (continued)

© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. What is the proper procedure for performing a one-color maintenance service on nail enhancements using ML/PP? How is a crack repair performed? How are ML/PP enhancements removed? Summary and Review (continued)