Women’s Wear in Feudal Japan The Muromachi and Edo Eras

Muromachi Era A period of civil unrest from The previously matriarchal society of Japan transitioned into one of primarily male dominance Women began to be more controlled in their marriages and personal choices; they lost their rights of equal inheritence The samurai and the nobility began to blend creating a fusion of style among women and reintroducing opulence into the fashion

Key Points of Muromachi Clothing The kosode, a simple kimono-like robe, replaced the 14-layered hirosode. Textiles from China and Spain introduced new weaving techniques along with fabrics such as wools, velvets, and cottons The uchikake, a formal robe made of wadded silk, long sleeves and a padded hem, formed during this time. Women abandoned wearing hakama, or trousers, and lengthened the kosode instead. The obi, a sash that tied the kosode shut, appeared during this time The specific names and cuts of the garments revealed one’s position in society

Tokugawa, or Edo, Period It was the calm final period of traditional Japan lasting from While women were still considered second class to men, they received high educations and traveled around for learning purposes. This period has the least amount of documented women. Women could work in the textile and other appropriate industries. Women were better educated than other Western women of their time. There was a freedom for divorce if the woman needed to leave the marriage.

Key Points of Edo Clothing Preferred shape for women is cylindrical, not hourglass They would add padding around the shoulders if they were too square and the waist if it was too narrow. Kimono are square cut with rectangular sleeves, not bell-cut Decorative collars were common. Extra layers began to return into clothing such as obi cords and scarves Kimono were so tight around the knees it created tiny steps. Hair accessories were reserved for special occasions and frequently for younger women; a lot of accessories meant you were a high-priced prostitute Sandals were always the shoe of choice, although in bad weather they wore a type of clog