Fibers→Yarns→Fabrics→Textiles Nonweave Woven Fabrics Knitted Fabrics Clothing Decoration Industrial use Spinning Weaving Knitting Preface

Project One Fibers, Yarns and Fabrics Ⅰ Fibers 一、 The definition of fiber （纤维的定义） A fiber is a pliable hairlike strand that is very small in diameter in relation to its length. Fibers are the fundamental units used in the making of textile yarns and fabrics. They contribute to the hand, texture and appearance of fabrics; they influence and contribute to the performance of fabrics; and they influence the cost of fabrics. Fibers are the foundation of textile industry. All textiles are made up of fibers. All of the production flows and formulae in textiles wet processing stages including pre-treatment, dyeing, printing and final finishing are designed and conducted on the basis of the properties of the fibers.

二、 The properties of fibers( 纤维的性质） Successful textile fibers must be readily available, constant in supply, and inexpensive. They must have sufficient strength （强度）, extensibility （延伸性） and elasticity （弹 性）, a high length to diameter ratio （长径 比）, and cohesiveness （粘聚性） to be spun into yarns. And also they must have resistance to chemicals, heat and sunlight, and ability to take colour.

三、 The classifications of general fibers （纤维的分类） Fibers are usually grouped in order to research or discuss or apply them conveniently. Most fibers are polymer. Based on their chemical composition, fibers can be classified into many groups such as cellulosic fiber, protein fiber, viscose fiber, polyamide fiber, polyester fiber and acrylic fiber, etc.. But the most convenient grouping divides then into two basic groups according to their origins: i. e. natural and man-made fibers. Or fibers can be divided into staple fiber or filament according to their length.

Natural FibersMan-made Fibers CellulosicProteinMineralRegeneratedSyntheticMineral CottonWoolAsbestos （石棉） Viscose Polyester( 涤 纶） Glass Flax （亚麻） Silk Modal （莫代 尔） Polyamide/Ny lon （锦纶、 尼龙） Steel Jute （黄麻） Mohair （马海毛） Tencel( 天丝） Acrylic （腈 纶） Carbon Ramie （苎 麻） Cashmere （羊绒） SoybeanPolypropylene （丙纶） Hemp( 大麻 ) Milk Spandex （氨 纶 / Lycra （莱 卡）

1. The definition of Yarn Yarn is an assembly of fibers and /or filaments. In the book of Textile Terms and Definitions, yarn is defined as a product of substantial length and relatively small cross- section consisting of fibers and /or filaments with or without twist. Ⅱ Yarns

Cotton spinning Cotton spinning is essentially a discontinuous process in which the short raw fiber goes through a series of machines that transform it into a continuous strand of yarn. The major production stages of ring spinning are opening, blending, cleaning, carding, drawing, combing, roving, and spinning, which includes twisting and winding.

2. The types of yarn Yarns can be broadly divided into three types Yarn Spun-staple yarn (staple fiber yarn) Continuous filament yarn Composite yarn

Spun-staple yarn Spun-staple yarns consist of staple fibers assembled and bound together by various means to produce the required characteristics such as strength, handle and appearance. Opening, Cleaning and Blending Carding/Combing Drawing RovingSpinning

3. The yarn quality A yarn is often described from two aspects, i.e. the thickness of the yarn and the degree and direction of twist.

3.1 Twist The direction in which the yarn is spun is called twist. Yarns are characterized as Z-twist or S-twist according to the direction of spinning (see diagram). Tightness of twist is measured in TPI (twists per inch or turns per inch).TPI (twists per inch or turns per inch) Twist can be inserted in either of two directions, clockwise or anticlockwise/counterclockwise. The usual designation for twist direction is to use the letters S or Z. The direction of the twist does not affect the yarn’s performance. However, it is customary to produce cotton and linen yarns with a Z-twist and woolen and worsted yarns with an S-twist. This custom has its roots in medieval consumer protection laws; consumers could easily find out whether a cloth was really wool by simply untwisting one of the yarns and checking the direction of the twist.

The direction of twist A single yarn has S twist if, when it is held in a vertical position, the fiber inclination to the axis of the yarn forms the center of the letters. Similarly, the yarn has Z twist if the fiber direction forms the center of the letter Z.

3.2 The thickness of the yarn It is difficult to measure the diameter of a yarn because not all yarns have a circular cross section, and some are easily deformed during measuring. The accepted way to indicate the thickness of a yarn is to give the count or linear density. The count is expressed as the length per unit mass. The linear density is expressed as mass per unit length. A length of the yarn is measured out, and then weighted.

Ⅲ Fabrics 1. The definition of fabric The words fabric and cloth are used in textile assembly trades (such as tailoring and dressmaking) as synonyms for textile. However, there are subtle differences in these terms in specialized usage. Textile refers to any material made of interlacing fibres. Fabric refers to any material made through weaving, knitting, spreading, crocheting, or bonding that may be used in production of further goods (garments, etc.). Cloth may be used synonymously with fabric but often refers to a finished piece of fabric used for a specific purpose.tailoringdressmaking

Woven Fabric Weaving Process Weaving is the process of making cloth. Cloth is made by crossing two sets of threads over and under each other. The two sets of threads are called warp and weft.

Plain Weave Plain weave is the simplest weave. Notice the weft goes over one warp and then under one warp.

Twill Weave Twill weave produces a strong, sturdy fabric like jeans. In a twill weave, the weft passes over several warp threads to produce a diagonal pattern.

Satin Weave A satin weave will produce a smooth, luxurious cloth. The weft can pass over as many as 12 warp threads so that the diagonal line cannot be seen. Satin weave can be snagged very easily.

Knitted Fabric

Weft-knitted fabrics Weft-knitted fabrics are made by hand or machine. Weft knits are used for socks, T-shirts and jumpers. Weft-knitted fabric is made by looping together long lengths of yarn. This makes the fabric stretchy and comfortable. The yarn runs in rows across the fabric. If a stitch is dropped it will ladder down the length of the fabric. Weft knits, made by hand or machine, are used for socks, T-shirts and jumpers.

Warp-knitted fabric Warp-knitted fabric is made by machine and is used for swimwear. Warp-knitted fabric is made by machine. The loops interlock vertically along the length of the fabric. Warp knits are slightly stretchy and do not ladder. They are used for swimwear, underwear and geotextiles

Non Woven Fabric Nonwoven fabrics are broadly defined as sheet or web structures bonded together by entangling fiber or filaments (and by perforating films) mechanically, thermally or chemically. They are flat, porous sheets that are made directly from separate fibers or from molten plastic or plastic film. They are not made by weaving or knitting and do not require converting the fibers to yarn.