“The best friend on earth of man is the tree. When we use the tree respectfully and economically, we have one of the greatest resources of the earth” Prepared by Dr. Teri Hamlin Georgia Department of Education For the Georgia Agricultural Education Curriculum Office May, 2002 Arboricultural site analysis & preparation Frank Lloyd Wright

Trees Beautify our surroundings –Offer a wide range of forms, textures, seasonal color –Define our outdoor space, frames a view –One acre of forest absorbs 6 tons of carbon dioxide & puts out 4 tons of oxygen (enough to meet annual needs of 18 people)

Save Energy –Net cooling effect of a young, healthy tree is equivalent to 10 room size air conditioners operating 20 hours a day. –Properly placed trees around building can reduce air conditioning needs by 30% & can save 20 % in energy used in heating Increase property values –Trees planted around existing home can boost market value 6-7 % –Healthy mature trees add an average of 10% to a property’s value

Selecting the Right Place for the Right Tree Evaluating site attributes Potential site modifications Tree Management Capabilities Desirable Tree Attributes Selection of Appropriate Tree

Hardiness Zone

Above the Ground SITE ANALYSIS Sun Exposure –Full sun –Part sun –Part shade –Shade

Above the Ground SITE ANALYSIS Slope Exposure –Thin Bark Trees (Cherry, Plums, Maples, Ash) planted on South & West Slopes bark split from direct sun & dry conditions Coat trunks with white latex or truck wraps to reflect light

Above the Ground SITE ANALYSIS Wind –increases the amount of water loss from a tree –big problem if root space is limited or poorly drained soil (lack of root development) –Select a species tolerant of drought

Overhead Wires –Cost utility companies (ultimately us) more than 1 billion dollars to trim tree branches

Above the Ground SITE ANALYSIS Buildings –one-sided, unbalanced root system –compact, clay soil shallow root system –hazardous conditions as tree matures –Select: Tree with open or narrow canopy Small to Medium size trees Plant a grove if canopy of shade is desired

Below the Ground SITE ANALYSIS Soil Texture Soil pH & Fertility Drainage Underground obstacles to root growth Appreciate how far roots can extend

A. Because roots need oxygen, they don’t grow well in compacted clay soil B. Framework of major roots lies 8-12 inches below the surface C. Roots often grow outward to a diameter one two times the height of the tree

Clay Soil vs. Good Soil pH Texture Well Drained Fertile

Soil pH pH governs the availability of nutrients & activity level of microorganisms

pH Test

pH Most Trees can grow in a soil pH Low pH < than 5.0 (acidic soil) –Dolomite or Limestone High pH > 7.0 (alkaline soil) –Ammonium sulfate, Aluminum sulfate, Sulfuric acid

Soil Texture A soil factor that limits tree growth Fine Texture Clay –compact –poorly drained –low oxygen # 1 cause of tree decline in North Georgia

Test Soil Drainage Dig & Fill with water several 12” deep holes Good Drainage: water drains in 2 hours Fair Drainage: water drains in several hours Poor Drainage: 8-10 hours water still there

Compact Soil Select Wet-Site Tolerant Trees –American Hornbeam, Sweet Gum, Sumac, Redbuds, Bald Cypress, Weeping Willow, River birch, Red & Silver Maple, Sawtooth, Water & Willow Oak, Sweetbay Magnolia, Loblolly Pine Avoid Tree with Aggressive Root Systems form surface roots which disturb mowing, sidewalks, etc… Red & Silver Maple, Beech, Ash, Walnut, Sweetgum, Popular, Oak, Weeping Willow, Pecan

Improving Drainage Before Planting Area should be turned and dug to a minimum depth of 12 inches and minimum width of 2x the canopy

Organic Materials Improve Drainage mixed at least top 12” of area Decomposed –Animal Manure –Bark –Peat Moss Grass Clippings –Leaves –Wood Chips –Sewage Sludge What makes a difference? 50 lbs per 100 sq ft

Compost

Elevate Beds Thoroughly mix amendments with native soil Break subsoil and hardpans Increase drainage Decrease soil compaction 30% great growth

Improve Soil Compaction After Establishment –Coring Machine –Verti-Drain / Vertical Mulching (dig 2-3’ deep trenches out from tree & refill with soil) –Pitch fork –Gypsum applications (if compaction caused by sodium saturated exchange in soil)

Newly developed sites Plan before construction begins Don’t allow debris to be buried Work with contractors to prevent excessive soil compaction in future landscape areas

Tree Selection Determine Max Tree Size at Planting –Irrigation only during establishment Small size nursery stock w/ small tops –Allows roots to come into balance with tree soon after planting Drought - tolerant trees –(Redbud, Eastern Red Cedar, Lacebark Elm, Crape Myrtle, Ginkgo, Sumac, Golden-rain tree, Sycamore, Live, Chestnut & Sawtooth Oak, Locust) –Irrigation regularly Any tree - Any size

Desirable Tree Attributes Mature size –Large trees provide shade to large open spaces –Medium trees shade on buildings –Small trees good for next to building, deck, patio provide little shade showy trunks, fruits, foliage, flowers Longevity –Large trees live longer than small trees

Desirable Tree Attributes Match Tree Form to Function

Desirable Tree Attributes Canopy Density –denser canopy = more shade, better screen, less noise Foliage –deciduous versus evergreen Growth Rate –fast versus slow Wood Strength –brittle wood, narrow/wood crotches

Desirable Tree Attributes Insect & Disease Resistant New Varieties –Kousa Dogwood –Crape Myrtle Disease Resistant (Apalachee, Lipan, Cherokee) Dwarf (less 3’) Petite Embers, Orchid, Pinkie –Chinese Fringe Tree

Tree Selection Weak crotches have bark included in trunks Strong crotches are wider, without bark

Tree Selection One Central Leader with branches evenly spaced

Tree Selection

Root Ball Defects Effect Growth & Survival of Tree Kinked roots Lack of roots Circling surface roots Tree planted too deep in field or container cuts off oxygen to roots & trunk rot Root Rot

Tree Selection Trunk Form Strong Trunks taper & thickest near ground Do not require stake to support them

Tree Selection Trunk Form

Tree Selection Insects & Diseases

Avoid Trees with… Trunk injury and broken branches Trunk Wrap Smaller, Lighter than normal leaves Dead tips (Die-back) Stakes (tree should stand on its own) Weeds in rootball

“No shade tree? Blame not the sun but yourself.” Arboriculture planting & management -Chinese Proverb

Tree establishment 3 most common causes of poor tree establishment –planting too deep –under watering –over watering

Fall is the best time of year to plant roots continue to grow and establish through the winter months

Before Planting Water plants in thoroughly Bare root plants should be soaked 3-6 hours

Inspect & Tease Roots Remove burlap and fabric containers

Planting If a tree is planted correctly, it will grow twice as fast and live at least twice as long as one that is incorrectly planted Well drained soils: –top of root ball even with soil line Poorly drained soils: –top of root ball slightly higher than soil line

Planting Ideally dig or till an area the same depth and approx. 5 x the diameter of the root ball

Planting Backfilling with loosened original soil Tamp lightly to eliminate air pockets Add soil until even with top of root ball Do not cover root ball with soil

Planting Construct 1-2” soil berm at edge of root ball to entrap irrigation water For newly planted trees, water directly on root ball After establishment: remove berm to encourage root growth

Transplanting Timing: Dormant stage of plant Keep as much soil around roots as possible Don’t let the root ball dry out Handle plant by the ball, not the trunk or branches

Mulch A tree’s best friend Insulates soil Retains moisture Keeps weeds out Prevents soil compaction Reduces lawn mower / weedeater damage Adds an aesthetic touch

Mulch

Max depth of 2-4” Do not touch the trunk Mulch too deep can lead to –trunk & crown rot –poor root ball aeration

Ground Cloth under Mulch ???

Establishment Period

Irrigation How much ? How often? During establishment –Minimum of 1” of water per week Water between 9 p.m. & 9 a.m.

Types of Irrigation Sprinkler Micro Sprinkler Drip Irrigation

Uses 30-50% less water Efficient and effective application Fewer pest problems Fewer weeds No wind effects Easily automated Economic to install

Drip Irrigation

Time Clock

Xeriscape Water Management Practices

Staking Good - quality trees do not require staking When to stake: –Windy Location –Top Heavy –Plants 8’ or taller –Weak Trunks –Small Root Ball –Evergreens

Types of Staking Support weak trunk Root ball anchorage

Staking

Rubber straps are nicely suited for attaching stakes to trunks Wire threaded through hose can girdle plant if left to long Never leave a plant staked for more than one growing season

Trunk Protection Little protection against insect & disease Some sun scald protection for thin bark plants Uneven wraps w/exposed bark = temp difference in trunk tissue Products : –Paper Wrap –Burlap –Plastic –White Latex Paint

Trunk Wraps If used, wrap from the bottom of the tree toward the top overlapping material Use electrical tape or flexible adhesive versus string

Fertilizer Nitrogen Phosphorus Potassium Landscape plants needs should be based on Soil Sample

Forms of Slow-release Nitrogen Ammoniacal nitrogen IBDU (Isobutylene diurea) Sulfur-coated urea Ureaformaldehyde

General Recommendation

Types of Fertilizer Sources: –Inorganic –Organic Formation: –Dry / Granular –Liquid –Slow-release

How to Apply Fertilizer

Fertilizer Burn

When to Fertilizer Main Meal –Slow Release ( 1 time per year) –General Purpose (2-3 x per growing season) Dessert –During active growth (Spring-Summer) –Liquid Soil drench Foliage Spray

Weed Management Mechanical Chemical –Pre-emergent Herbicide Surflan, Treflan, Ronstar, Balan –Post-emergent Herbicide Selective –Kills grasses in shrubs & flowers (Poast) –Kills broadleaf weeds in lawns (MSMA, Trimec) Non-Selective (Round up)

The appearance of a properly pruned plant is like a good hair cut: hardly noticeable at first glance. Arboriculture Pruning

Pruning at Planting: –If quality plant stock, pruning is not necessary Do not prune to compensate for root loss –latest research show pruning does not help overcome transplant shock

Why Prune Removal of dead, broken, diseased, or insect-infested branches Maintain desired shape & size Promote healthy, vigorous growth Promote flowering & fruiting

Pruning Tools Sharp & Sterile

Making the Cut Directional Pruning

Making the Cut

Pruning Technique Heading Removes a part of a shoot Thinning Removes the entire shoot or limb

Rejuvenating Restores overgrown shrubs Cut all branches 4- 8” above ground

Pruning Time General Rule Plants that flower before May –Prune after bloom Azalea, Dogwood, Forsythia, Redbud, Rhododendron, Clematis, Saucer Magnolia, Flowering Cherry, Climbing roses Plants that flower after May –Prune prior to spring growth Camellia, Chaste Tree, Crape Myrtle, Nandina, Sweetshrub, Abelia, Sourwood, Floribunda roses

North Georgia Pruning Time January - March Broadleaf evergreen Needleaf evergreen Renewal Pruning Large Tree Limbs

Pruning Young Trees A. Remove suckers B. Remove low growing branches that interfere with maintenance practices C. Remove upright growing shoots or waterspouts D. Remove inward growing branches E. Remove branches that compete with a central leader

Crown Thinning No more than 1/4 of the living branches should be removed at one time

Crown Raising Remove branch from bottom to provide clearance After pruning the ratio of living crown to total tree height should be at least two-thirds

Crown Reduction Ratio of live crown to total tree height should be at least two-thirds Never cut main branches of tree back to stubs (Topping Trees)

Large Limbs A. Make partial cut from underneath B. Make a second cut from above several inches out –allows the limb to fall C. Complete job with final cut just outside the branch collar

Pruning Limbs An Improper Cut made through the branch collar will take 3x longer to heal

Pruning Paint Correct Tools Correct Time Correct Technique “Placebo” - making the user feel good Research shows that paint or wound dressings do not stop decay nor cause the wound to close faster Successful Pruning

Trees Add interest to the landscape –Seasonal Color –Foliage Texture and Form Hardy –Temperature –Drought –Insect & Disease Easy to maintain

Fringe Tree Height: 10-15’ Width: 8-10’ May Frangrant Blooms, fall berries Sun- Semi sun Varieties : “Grancy Gray - beard, Chinese Fringe Tree

Serviceberry

Crape Myrtle Height: 3-20’ Width: 3-15’ July - August flowers, bark, foliage Sun Varieties : disease resistant –Natchez, Muskogee, Yuma, Lipan, Tonto, Powhata, Sioux

Eastern Redbud Height: 20-30’ Width: 25-35’ Early Spring Sun- Semi sun Varieties : –Alba: white blooms –Forest pansy:purple leaves –Silver Cloud: variegated leaves

Deciduous Magnolia Height: 10-20’ Width: 10-15’ Early Spring Blooms Sun Varieties : Royal Star

American Yellowwood Height: 30-50’ Width: 40-50’ Bright Yellow in Fall, Fragrant flowers in spring-early summer Sun-part shade Varieties: Rosea, Sweetshade

Kousa Dogwood Height: 10-20’ Width: 10-20’ May Blooms, fall berries Sun- Semi sun Varieties :Milky way, Summer Stars, Moonbean

Red-Osier Dogwood Height: 8-10’ Width: 8-10’ Spring Blooms, Fall Red foliage, Winter interest stems Sun- Semi sun Varieties : Cardinal, Flaviramea, Golden Twig

Japanese Maple Height: 2-20’ Width: 4-20’ Foliage Red- Purple-Green Direct morning sun & afternoon shade Bloodgood, Beni Hime, Crimson Queen

Trident Maple Height: 15-25’ Width: 10-20’ Multi stem trunk Sun- Semi sun Form and Fall Foliage

Maples

Sourwood Height: 25-40’ Width: 15-20’ Good Fall Color, Flowers in summer Sun

Vitex Chaste Tree Height: 8-10’ Width: 8-10’ Summer Blooms Sun Varieties : Latifolia, Alba

River Birch Height: 20-50’ Width: 20-30’ Multi stem and trunk Sun Dry to Wet Soil Varieties : “Heritage”

Flowering Cherry Height: 15-20’ Width: 15-25’ Spring Blooms Sun Varieties : Kwanzan: ‘Royal Burgandy’ Yoshino: Shidare (weeps)

Ornamental Pear Height: 20-30’ Width: 15-25’ Spring Blooms Sun