2.01 Understanding The Technical Design Process A. Fabric Selection 1. Fabric Construction

Turning Yarn into Fabric Weaving: The process of interlacing one or more sets of yarns at right angles on a loom. Warp yarns: Yarns that run lengthwise in woven fabric. (“p” = up and down) Weft yarns: Yarns that run crosswise in woven fabric. (“weft” sounds like left & right)

Turning Yarn into Fabric (cont.) Grain: The direction of the lengthwise and crosswise yarns in a woven fabric. Bias: The diagonal grain of a fabric. The bias provides the greatest stretch in the fabric.

Weaving Plain weave Plain weave: The simplest weave in which the weft (crosswise) yarn is passed over then under each warp (lengthwise) yarn. A basket weave is one variation, with the weft yarn passing over two and under two warp yarns each pass. Examples: chiffon gingham seersucker taffeta

Weaving Twill weave: A very strong weave in which the weft yarn is passed over and under one, two, or three warp yarns Used for durability, this weave produces a diagonal design on the surface. Twill weave Examples: denim, chino gabardine

Weaving Satin weave Satin weave: A very weak weave that produces a smooth, shiny-surfaced fabric resulting from passing the weft yarn over and under numerous warp yarns to create long floats. Examples: sateen satin

Weaving In textiles, pile is the raised In textiles, pile is the raisedtextiles surface or nap of a fabric, which napfabricnapfabric is made of upright loops or is made of upright loops or strands of yarn. yarn

Weaving A pile weave is made on a loom, like most types of weaves are made. The difference is that loops are created. A pile weave is made on a loom, like most types of weaves are made. The difference is that loops are created. These loops can either be left uncut, like in towels, or can be cut to uniform lengths, like in velvet fabric. These loops can either be left uncut, like in towels, or can be cut to uniform lengths, like in velvet fabric. Types of fabrics created using a pile weave include Velvet, Corduroy, Terrycloth, and Velveteen Types of fabrics created using a pile weave include Velvet, Corduroy, Terrycloth, and Velveteen

Weaving Assignment Using construction paper cut into strips about 1 inches x 11 inches you should recreate: Using construction paper cut into strips about 1 inches x 11 inches you should recreate: plain weave plain weave twill weave twill weave satin weave satin weave On the back of each weave: On the back of each weave: list the advantages list the advantages list disadvantages list disadvantages 3 examples of weave 3 examples of weave

Turning Yarn into Fabric Knitting: the process of pulling loops of yarns through other loops to create interlocking rows of stitches Knitting: the process of pulling loops of yarns through other loops to create interlocking rows of stitches Wales – yarns that run in the lengthwise direction, like a warp yarns in woven fabrics Courses – yarns that run in the crosswise direction, like the weft yarns in woven fabrics

Knitting Weft Knit: a knit made with only one yarn Weft Knit: a knit made with only one yarn Types of weft knits include: Types of weft knits include: Jersey knits – most common type, curls at edges, used for t-shirts, sweaters and tights/hosiery Jersey knits – most common type, curls at edges, used for t-shirts, sweaters and tights/hosiery Rib knits – have vertical “ribs” (columns of stitches), used for neck, wrist and bottom bands of sweatshirts & jackets Rib knits – have vertical “ribs” (columns of stitches), used for neck, wrist and bottom bands of sweatshirts & jackets Double knits – two yarns and two needles are used resulting in heavier, sturdier knits that don’t run or ravel Double knits – two yarns and two needles are used resulting in heavier, sturdier knits that don’t run or ravel Characteristics include: Characteristics include: Two-way stretch in both lengthwise & crosswise directions Two-way stretch in both lengthwise & crosswise directions Can get lengthwise “runs” from broken threads Can get lengthwise “runs” from broken threads Made on either flat or circular knitting machines Made on either flat or circular knitting machines

Knitting Jersey Knits Jersey Knits

Knitting Rib Knits Rib Knits

Knitting Double Knits Double Knits

Knitting Warp knit: a knit made with several yarns on flat knitting machines. Multiple yarns are looped together to produce a run- resistant knitted fabric. Warp knit: a knit made with several yarns on flat knitting machines. Multiple yarns are looped together to produce a run- resistant knitted fabric. Tricot knits – stable knits that lie flat and don’t run or ravel, made on very fast tricot knitting machines, used for lingerie, underwear and uniforms Tricot knits – stable knits that lie flat and don’t run or ravel, made on very fast tricot knitting machines, used for lingerie, underwear and uniforms Raschel knits – an extra yarn is used to create a patterned design in these knits, used for lacy knits, thermal underwear and bathing suits Raschel knits – an extra yarn is used to create a patterned design in these knits, used for lacy knits, thermal underwear and bathing suits

Knitting Tricot knits Tricot knits

Knitting Raschel knits Raschel knits

Knitting Seamless knitting Seamless knitting involves the production of a whole garment in one piece on a knitting machine so that little or no sewing is required.

Nonwoven Fabrics Made from fibers, not yarns Made from fibers, not yarns Fibers are held together by a combination of moisture, heat, chemicals and/or pressure. Fibers are held together by a combination of moisture, heat, chemicals and/or pressure. No grain line No grain line Limited stretch Limited stretch Inexpensive Inexpensive Often disposal Often disposal

Nonwoven Fabrics Uses include: Uses include: Interfacings Interfacings Batting for quilts Batting for quilts Felt Felt Disposable products Disposable products Medical products Medical products