Waves, Beaches, and Coasts

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Presentation transcript:

Waves, Beaches, and Coasts Lecture 16 Waves, Beaches, and Coasts

Lecture Outline I Waves and Nearshore Circulation A) The Role of Wind B) Water Movement C) Wave Definitions D) Nearshore Circulation i. Surf ii. Wave Refraction iii. Longshore Currents iv. Rip Currents II Nearshore Sediment Dynamics A) Nearshore Sediment Budget B) Shore Parallel i. Landforms ii. Human Interference C) Shore Normal Lecture 16 i

Lecture Outline III Coasts IV Conclusions A) Erosional B) Depositional C) Drowned D) Uplifted IV Conclusions Lecture 16 ii

Wave Properties Wave Number (k) k =  Wave Period (T) Wave Frequency () = 2/T Velocity (c) c = /k =/T Steepness St = z/

Water Motion in Waves

Wave Types Wind Waves Seiches Seismic Sea Waves (Tsunamis) Tidal Waves

Wind and Waves Wind Velocity Wind Duration Fetch

Wind and Waves Wind Velocity Significant Wave Height

Wave Evolution Ripples Sea Swell Wave Train

Wave Evolution Ripples

Wave Evolution Sea

Wave Evolution Swell

Wave Evolution Wave Train

Observed Waves

The Littoral Zone

Nearshore Circulation Wave Erosion

Nearshore Circulation Breaking Waves

Nearshore Circulation The Surf Spilling Waves Plunging Waves Surging Waves

Nearshore Circulation The Surf - Spilling Waves

Nearshore Circulation The Surf - Plunging Waves

Nearshore Circulation The Surf - Surging Waves

Nearshore Circulation Wave Refraction

Nearshore Circulation Wave Refraction

Nearshore Circulation Longshore Currents

Nearshore Circulation Rip Currents

Nearshore Sediment Dynamics The Beach

Nearshore Sediment Dynamics The Beach

Nearshore Sediment Dynamics The Beach - Seasonal Changes

Nearshore Sediment Dynamics Coastal Sediment Budget