Mississippi Agricultural & Forestry Experiment Station

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Presentation transcript:

Mississippi Agricultural & Forestry Experiment Station Making Splits Jeff Harris Extension/Research Apiculturist Department Biochemistry, Molecular Biology, Entomology & Plant Pathology Mississippi State University, MS 39762 Mississippi Agricultural & Forestry Experiment Station

Keys to Solid Beekeeping Constantly evaluate honey productions from bee yards Push your mean honey production to be better all of the time Understand that colony loss is a reality – accept that 25% loss may be normal Use increases (splits) to either keep number of colonies stable through time, or to increase the size of your operation

Definitions A split is separating the two hive bodies from a colony to make two colonies A nuc is a fully balanced but miniature colony An increase is simply adding to the number of colonies that you manage

Why Make Splits and Nucs? To grow your business To replace winter losses Foolproof requeening Management tool for swarm prevention Queen rearing / mating nuc

Things Needed to Make Splits Strong and productive colonies (A and B students) coming out of the winter are kept as your honey primary producing colonies (manage these for swarming) Poorer colonies – your C students and lower are all candidates for splits Queens or queen cells Nucleus hive bodies (or other hive sizes) A location for new nucs that is far from source yard (> 3 miles)

Basic Rules to Making Nucs Make them in middle of the day when field bees are out of the hive Keep the nuc in progress protected from the sun to avoid baking uncapped brood Use a minimum amount of smoke Nucs should have reduced entrances and/or robber screens

How to Make Splits Two colonies from one hive Side by Side Splits Put 2 floors near original hive Put empty box on each floor Put half the food into each box Put half the brood into each box One box gets the queen Other box gets a mated queen or a mature queen cell

How to Make Splits Two colonies from one hive Walk Away Splits Split into equal halves as in side-by-side splits Move from original hive site (miles) Leave alone for two weeks Queenless halve will raise a queen

How to Make Splits Varying Broodless Periods For a split raising a queen from young brood: it will take 12-16 days for queen to emerge, another 6-8 days to mate, and 3-5 days to lay eggs after mating Total period without new brood production will be at least 21 days RISK: The bee population diminishes too fast!

How to Make Splits Varying Broodless Periods For a split raising a queen from a mature cell: it will take 2 days for queen to emerge, another 6-8 days to mate, and 3-5 days to lay eggs after mating Total period without new brood production will be at least 11-15 days RISK: The bee population diminishes, but not as dramatic as previous method.

How to Make Splits Varying Broodless Periods For a split given a caged mated queen: it will take 2-5 days for candy release from cage, another 3-5 days days to lay eggs Total period without new brood production will be at least 5-10 days RISK: Hand release queens to ensure acceptance!

How to Make Nucs I encourage you to make nucs with 3 frames of brood (best chance of surviving) Fill out nuc with at least one heavy honey and pollen frame and an empty comb Unit should be fed 50:50 syrup and grown into two full sized brood chambers by late spring or early summer Alternate: Empty combs and a feeder

Up to 4 Nucs from One Colony 1 frame of brood for mating nuc 2 frames of brood for an increase colony 3 frames to make a split that should produce honey

How to Make Nucs for Sale Add 1 frame of honey Add 2 frames of brood with adhering bees Add a frame of foundation and a division board feeder full of syrup Introduce a queen cell; wait two weeks Remove feeder and add heavy honey from another colony Sell the nuc

Texas Set-Off Splits colonies of varying strength in the spring time arrangement after workup: each box has 3 frames brood, 3 frames of honey/pollen, and excluders used to pin queen

Texas Set-Off Splits Night after workup: all boxes placed onto bottom boards Next day: caged queens placed into queenless units

Your First Time Making Splits Consider only doing it in spring just before swarm season Splits usually respond well to natural flows and can grow to a good size and even produce a surplus honey Although nucs can be made in the summer, the care is much more involved. Wintering nucs is possible, but there is a certain finesse to being successful. Make your first few years of increase during the spring and learn to be good at it; then experiment with other seasons.

Seasonal Considerations Attributes Early Swarm Summer Colony Strength Lowest bee and brood levels of season Excellent bee and brood numbers; Swarm season Strong, but brood rearing declining Weather Conditions May be poor Usually favorable Extreme heat possible Drone Numbers Unpredictable; Early drones may be scarce Maximum for season Reduced number and viability Mites and Pests Lowest mite number Increasing varroa & SHB Highest varroa; Highest SHB

Spring Nuc Management Usually made during nectar flow (2 frames of brood recommended) Spring nucs are ideal for learning how to grow colonies Add 2nd box, or expand to 10-frame equipment as soon as bee population warrants If not sold, given away, or not needed in your operation, it can be overwintered

Summer Nuc Management Source colony fed a 1:1 sugar syrup one week prior to splitting Nucs should be given 3 frames brood (older larvae or capped). No eggs or very young larvae (likely cannibalized) Nuc is fed 1:1 syrup to stimulate nectar flow and support it during growth Queen introduction much more difficult Can be overwintered as replacement for winter losses

Summer Nucs for Winter Start nuc with 3 frames of brood – most of these frames will also have pollen and honey. One frame should be eggs and young larvae; the two remaining frames should contain honey and pollen (and placed on the outside positions in the nuc). When the nuc size has grown, add a nuc super with 5 fully drawn combs. These 5 combs need to be fully capped before winter; feed in autumn if necessary; monitor nucs throughout winter and feed fondant or candy boards as needed.