History of Cosmetology 20th Century 1901 – 1910 1920’s 1930’s 1940’s 1951 – 2000

Lesson Objectives Describe the advancements made in cosmetology from the 19th century to the 21st century. Explain two different types of perm wrapping methods. Explain the impact Madame C.J. Walker made in history for hair care products and women.

20th Century Invention of motion pictures coincided with an abrupt shift in American attitudes. Standards of feminine beauty began to change when viewers saw celebrities with flawless complexions, beautiful hairstyles, and manicured nails. Industrialization Brought a new prosperity to the United States, and all forms of beauty began to follow trends.

Max Faktor 1904 – emigrated from Lodz, Poland to the U.S. 1908 – had Americanized his name to Max Factor and moved to Los Angeles. Began making and selling cosmetics to movie stars. Makeup that wouldn’t cake or crack, even under hot studio lights.

Charles Nessler October 8, 1905 – invented a heavily wired machine that supplied electrical current to the metal rods around which hair strands were wrapped. The units were heated during the waving process. They were kept away from the scalp by a complex system of counterbalancing weights, suspended from an overhead chandelier, mounted on a stand.

Perm Wave Machine

Two Wrapping Methods Two methods were used to wind hair strands around the metal units. Spiral Wrapping: Long hair wound from the scalp to the ends. Croquignole Wrapping: Used on short hair (after WWI). Shorter hair was wound from the ends toward the scalp. The hair was then styled into deep waves with loose end curls.

Madame C.J. Walker Birth name: Sarah Breedlove Daughter of former slaves and was orphaned at age seven. Worked in cotton fields of the Mississippi delta. 1906 – Married 3rd husband, C.J. Walker Suffered scalp condition and began losing hair. Experimented with store-bought products and homemade remedies.

Madam Walker’s Wonderful Hair Grower Began to sell her scalp conditioning and healing treatment called “Madam Walker’s Wonderful Hair Grower.” 1910 – moved her company to Indianapolis where she built a factory, hair salon, and training school. 1917 – organized a convention for her Madam C.J. Walker Hair Culturists Union of America. One of the first national meetings for businesswomen ever held!

Lesson Objective Understand the advancements made in permanent waving from 1905 to present day. Understand the advancements made in hair color from 1920’s to present. Understand how the salon industry grew into a multibillion dollar industry.

1920’s Cosmetics industry grew rapidly Early 1920’s – many women’s magazines refused to do advertisements for cosmetics. Deemed improper Late 1920’s – Cosmetics provided one of advertisers largest sources of revenue.

1930’s Preheat Perm Method Introduced in 1931 Hair was wrapped using the croquignole method. Then clamps, preheated by a separate electrical unit, were placed over the wound curls.

Ralph Evans & Everett McDonough 1st machineless perm! Used external heat generated by chemical reaction. Small, flexible pads containing a chemical mixture were wound around hair strands. Pads were moistened with water, a chemical heat was released that created long-lasting curls. Arnold Willatt 1938 – invented the cold wave Used no machines or heat Considered to be the precursor to the modern perm

Lawrence Gelb 1932 – introduced the first permanent haircolor product Founded a company called Clairol

1940’s 1941 – scientist developed another method of permanent waving called the Cold Wave. Used waving lotion Did not use heat Replaced virtually all predecessors and competitors Modern forms of cold waves, usually referred to as alkaline perms, are very popular today. Texture Service – term used today to refer to the variety of permanent wave services available for different hair types and conditions.

1950 - 2000

1960’s 1960’s – Vidal Sassoon – Revolutionary geometric cuts

1970’s 1970’s – New era in highlighting French hairdressers introduced the art of “hair weaving”, using aluminum foil.

1980’s 1980’s – Makeup – went from barely there to cat-eyes and heavy use of eye shadows and blush. Really big hair!! Physical fitness, nutrition and day spas became popular.

1990’s 1990’s – Haircolor became gentler, allowing all ethnicities to enjoy being blonds, brunettes, or redheads.

1998 1998 - Creative nail design introduced the first spa pedicure system to the professional beauty industry. Nail art also entered the scene by the 1990’s.

21st Century Today Age of specialization Hairstyles are gentler No-fade haircolor Estheticians can noticeably rejuvenate the face, and keep disorders such as sunspots and mild acne at bay. Age of specialization Cosmetologists can specialize in either hair color, or haircutting Estheticians specialize in esthetic or medical-esthetic services. Nail Technicians can specialize in artificial nail enhancements, natural nail care, or even pedicures. Salon industry has evolved to include day spas. Men’s-only specialty spas and barber spas have also grown in popularity, providing new opportunities for men’s nail care specialists.

Haircoloring in the twentieth century has become a multibillion-dollar industry of professional products!!!!!!! The huge growth in day spas has also been a significant development The domain of cosmetology has changed dramatically . All the new services and skills have transformed and expanded the role of cosmetologists, requiring them to know more than ever and to make continuing education a necessity!