EXPANDING HORIZONS: THE CHANGING LANDSCAPE OF THE INDIAN COMMUNITY IN MUSCAT DR. SANDHYA RAO MEHTA SULTAN QABOOS UNIVERSITY

Historically, the Indian community has recorded presence for the last three hundred years along the Muscat coast References to Indian traders and their families has been brief and fleeting, but archival and anecdotal evidence points to a continuing influence of the Indian community in the old town of Masqat and in ‘new Muscat ‘as well. Photograph acknowledgmentt: From the personal collection of Mr. Vimal Purecha.

Cultural Geography This can be defined as exploring “the patterns and interactions of human culture, both material and non- material, in relation to the natural environment and the human organization of space” (Cosgrove, 1994) Examples of this can include material culture such as buildings, houses and landscape. It can also include non-material culture such as languages, and identities, even ‘home’.

Markers of cities Across the world All images are from wikimedia.org

Studies on transnational urbanism In terms of modern migrations and diasporas, studies focus on memories such as rituals and festivals, identities formed by language and the way in which immigrant communities form ‘homes’. In terms of the Indian migrant community across the world, studies have often focussed on the way they have assimilated into (largely western) societies.

The history of Indians in Muscat Calvin Allen quotes Danish explores Carsten Niebuhr’s visit to Masqat in 1765: “In no other Mahometan city are the Banians so numerous as in Masqat; their numbers in this city amounts no fewer than twelve hundred. They are permitted to live agreeably to their own laws, to bring their wives with them, to set up idols in their chambers and to burn their dead” (Allen, 1981, p. 41) Allen elaborates: “Most of the Banians lived and worked in Masqat within the walled part of the city and close to the Sultan’s palace. Ratansi was no exception, although the family did move to Matrah in 1915 when that port supplanted Masqat as the commercial centre of Uman. Early in the 1880s, Ratansi began to acquire land along the waterfront of Masqat…(Allen, 1981, p. 47). View of the walled city of Masqat from Mr. Vimal Purecha’s personal collection

The Muscat waterfront From the personal collection of the Ratansis

The Muttrah neighbourhood today

Demographics of expatriate population in Oman According to the National census of 2010, 42.2% of the total expatriate population lives in Muscat Governorate. Based on Ministry of National Economy statistics of 2011, 62% of private sector employees are Indian. Most of these Indians occupy predictable geographical spaces.

“Gulf Oil Cities” Sulayman Khalaf (2006) refers to a particular model of development in these cities as consisting of the following: 1. Luxury villas occupied by the nationals. 2. Compounded villas of the prosperous expatriates. 3. Highrise apartments rented by professional expatriates. 4. Low income accomodation for entry level workers. 5. Residential camps for labourers.

Patterns of settlement among Indians in Muscat “Throughout the decades of modernization the distinguishing feature of social segregation has not only been nationality (i.e. Omani-non-Omani). Gradually over time, segregation began to take place on the basis of the individuals’ social-economic position in society, especially income” (Deffner &Pfaffenbach, 2011, p. 7).

Ruwi and Wadi Kabir areas have become associated with working class settlements

Single life in Ruwi

The Development of Madinat Qaboos Images are from cluttonsoman.com

Middle-level Indian professionals have largely settled around Al-Khuwair

The spread of the Indian community tripadvisor.com gulfnews.com

Conclusion Increasingly, the city of Muscat is seeing a more homogenous tendency in terms of the groups of inhabitants. The Indian community which has been historically a significant part of this society, has seen itself change its own profile, adding to its variety and range. It is also fair to say that this range of Indians have, in a real sense, changed the face of the city of Muscat as well.