Twill Weave 2nd Basic weave

Three basic weaves Plain weave Twill weave Satin weave

Features of twill weave Twill line or diagonal line on the face and back of the fabric. Regular twill angle 45 degree Minimum twill angle 15 degree Maximum twill angle 75 degree Minimum repeat of twill weave: 3x3 At least three heald frames are needed to produce a minimum repeat of twill weave. More compact fabric than plain cloth. Suitable for outer wear and repeated wearing. Straight drafting system for basic twill weave.

It has fewer interlacing than plain weave. It is wrinkle resistant. The twill direction is defined as left or right hand twill.

Factors influencing the prominence of twills The relative prominence of twills is chiefly determined by: (a) The character of weave (b) The character of yarn (c) The number of warp and weft threads per inch (d) The direction of twill in relation to the direction of twist imparted to the yarn.

(a) The Character of Weave  A twill weaves will be relatively more pronounced if developed from longer than from shorter floats of yarn. (b) Character of yarn  A more pronounced twill will result either from coarse spun of soft spun yarn than from fine spun or hand spun yarns; also from folded yarn than from single yarn.

(c) Number of Threads per inch A twill will be relatively more or less pronounced in proportion to the number of warp threads and picks of weft per inch. (d) Direction of twill with relation to the direction of twill in the yarn If twills are produced in the reverse direction to that of the twist in the yarns, they will be more pronounced and if twills are produced in the same direction as that of the twist in the yarn, they will be less pronounced.

Classification of Twill weaves: According to the way of construction: Warp way twill weave Weft way twill weave According to the direction of twill lines on the face of the fabric: S-twill or left hand twill weave Z-twill weave or right hand twill weave According to the face yarn: Warp face twill weave: Weft face twill weave: Double face twill weave: According to the nature of produced twill line: Simple twill weave Expanded twill weave Multiple twill weave:

Derivatives of twill weave Zigzag or pointed or waved twill weave Herringbone twill weave Diamond twill weave Diaper twill weave Broken twill weave Rearranged or transposed twill weave Steeped twill weave Elongated twill weave Combined or combination twill weave Shaded twill weave Curved twill weave

Difference between horizontal and vertical zigzag twill weave Horizontal zigzag Vertical zigzag Combination of Z twill and S twill in horizontal direction Basic twill: warp way twill Pointed drafting system Warp double than weft in a repeat. Combination of Z twill and S twill in vertical direction Basic twill: weft way twill Straight drafting system Weft double than warp in a repeat Difference between horizontal and vertical zigzag twill weave

Diamond weaves It is constructed upon the principal of zigzag twill. Combination of Horizontal & vertical zigzag twill Number of both warp and weft threads are double than that of the twill in the repeat The design/weave plan is divided into four equal parts. Diamond designs are symmetrical about their horizontal & vertical axis. Uses: Towel, Bed cover, Pillow cover, table cloth & other decorative purpose etc.

Diaper twill weave A weave, combination of vertical & horizontal herringbone & constituted upon the basis of herringbone principal. It is divided into four equal parts while constructing a repeat. It is divided into 2 equal symmetrical parts along diagonal axis. Uses: Towel, Bed cover, Pillow cover, table cloth etc. & other decorative purpose

Double face twill: Herringbone: Broken drafting system Warp face or weft face twill: Herringbone: Straight drafting system.

Herringbone twill