Introduction to formulation © School of Natural Skincare1

What is a formula? A formula is the ‘proper’ or professional way to create and write a recipe Your formula should be: written in percentages (based on weight) written using INCI name © School of Natural Skincare2

What is INCI? INCI = International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredients Universal, worldwide system of ‘proper’ names for cosmetic ingredients Based on latin or scientific name Ingredient labels must use INCI E.g Peach Kernal Oil = Prunus persica Cocoa Butter = Theobroma cacao © School of Natural Skincare3

Turning a recipe into a formula Peppermint Lip Balm Recipe: 60ml sunflower seed oil 29.5g cocoa butter 10g beeswax 10 drops peppermint essential oil © School of Natural Skincare4

Step 1) Create a weight based recipe For greater accuracy always weigh your ingredients (even liquid ingredients) 60g sunflower seed oil 29.5g cocoa butter 10g beeswax 0.5g peppermint essential oil = 100g © School of Natural Skincare5

Step 2 ) Turn weight into % & use INCI IngredientINCI namePercentage Sunflower seed oilHelianthus Annuus60% Cocoa ButterTheobroma Cacao29.5% BeeswaxCera Alba10% Peppermint Essential Oil Mentha piperita0.5% © School of Natural Skincare6

Peppermint Lip Balm Formula IngredientINCI namePercentage Sunflower seed oilHelianthus Annuus60% Cocoa ButterTheobroma Cacao29.5% BeeswaxCera Alba10% Peppermint Essential Oil Mentha piperita0.5% © School of Natural Skincare7

If your recipe does not equal 100g in total there is an easy calculation you can do to work out the percentages: Individual ingredient weight / the total weight x 100 = individual % © School of Natural Skincare8

Individual ingredient weight / the total weight x 100 = individual % WeightPercentage Bicarbonate of soda180g180/260 x 100 = 69.3 % Citric acid60g60/260 x 100 = 23% Cocoa butter19g19/260 x 100 = 7.3% Orange essential oil1g1/260 x 100 = 0.4% Total260g100% © School of Natural Skincare9

In this course we’ll be creating our formulas in % first. Then when we are ready to make a batch of product we’ll turn the percentages into grams. © School of Natural Skincare10

Facial Oil Formulation Sheet Vegetable Oils (98%) Essential Oils (1.5%) Vitamin E (0.5%) © School of Natural Skincare11

Rejuvenating Facial Oil Mature Skin Vegetable Oils (98%)50% Jojoba 30% Rosehip 18% Macadamia Essential Oils (1.5%)1% Lavender 0.5% Frankincense Vitamin E (0.5%)0.5 % Vitamin E © School of Natural Skincare12

© School of Natural Skincare13 IngredientINCI namePercentage Jojoba OilSimmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Oil 50% Rosehip OilRosa Mosqueta (Rosehip) Oil 30% Macadamia Nut OilMacadamia Ternifolia (Macadamia) Oil 18% Lavender Essential OilLavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil 1% Frankincense Essential Oil Boswellia carteri (Frankincense) Oil 0.5% Vitamin ETocopherol0.5%

Making a batch Formula100g 50% Jojoba 30% Rosehip 18% Macadamia 50g Jojoba 30g Rosehip 18g Macadamia 1% Lavender 0.5% Frankincense 1g Lavender 0.5g Frankincense 0.5 % Vitamin E0.5g Vitamin E © School of Natural Skincare14

Making a batch Formula250g 50% Jojoba 30% Rosehip 18% Macadamia 125g Jojoba 75g Rosehip 45g Macadamia 1% Lavender 0.5% Frankincense 2.5g Lavender 1.25g Frankincense 0.5 % Vitamin E1.25g Vitamin E © School of Natural Skincare15 % / 100 x batch size e.g. 50/100 x 250 = 125g