One way of extending product life is using better materials – like stronger materials or materials that resist corrosion. Another way is through design to allow their life to be extended by maintenance. Most products have a limited life. This means that eventually they stop working, are worn out or are thrown away. Designers have to consider how long a product will last and what will happen when it is no longer needed. A product with a long life uses less material than several short-lived replacements. This is good for the environment. However, a longer life also means that the manufacturer will sell less replacement products. Long Lifespan

Basic Examples: T-shirts, underwear, Vest tops etc. Fashion Examples: Little black dress, black blazer, leather Jacket Fad Examples: Shell suits (80’s), Bomber Jackets etc

Iconic Named Textile Products

Fabric Manufacture Fabric finishes Knowledge of the effects of finishes and the reasons they are needed in relation to the fibre/fabric properties and end use of the product.

Finishing Finishing is done to improve the appearance, properties and quality of a product. It covers many different processes, some mechanical and some chemical. Mechanical/physical finishing processes Chemical finishing processes Biological finishes

Mechanical finishes: The finish of a fabric is altered using mechanical equipment There are 3 main mechanical finishes: –Raising: The ends of fibres are teased out to form a pile. This is done by rollers covered in small wire hooks which rotate over the surface of the fabric. This does make the fabric weaker but leaves the material with a raised, fluffy and soft surface. Air is trapped between the fibres making the fabric a good insulator. –Calendering: A set of rollers uses heat and/or pressure to smooth the surface, compact the fibres under pressure, improve lustre and emboss patterns. Calendered fabrics require dry-cleaning and washing causes the fibres to swell making the fibre ends stick out spoiling the smooth surface. –Shrinking & Curing: Fabrics are often shrunk prior to use to avoid shrinkage later. The method chosen depends on the fabric and other processes that may be applied. Curing is a high temperature treatment when printed fabrics are passed through a series of ovens set at 160°. This fixes the colour on the fabric

FinishProcess Stain Resistant Specifically formulated substances containing silicone or synthetic resins are applied to fabric. Mostly applied to clothing and carpets. Flame Resistant Particular chemical substance is applied to make most fabrics flame resistant. Some furnishings are made flame retardent which results in the fabric burning very slowly. Water Repellent Specific substances such as silicone are sprayed onto fabric to make them water repellent. Different chemicals result in different levels of protection Easy-care Frequently used fabrics such as cotton & viscose have chemicals applied to protect them from shrinkage and make them resistant to creasing. Anti-static Surface conductivity needs to be improved to stop static charges building up. Chemicals are applied to improve this, Synthetic fibres have high static. Anti-pilling Woollen or synthetic fibres often suffer from pilling (bobbling). To avoid this anti pilling properties are applied using solvents or polymers to form a film on the fabric’s surface. Moth Proof Chemicals are applied to fabric to protect them from moths. Moths are repelled by the chemicals and will no lay eggs on the woollen fibres. Rot Proof Chemicals applied to avoid fabrics from rotting. Anti-felting Makes it possible to machine-wash woollen products, limits felting and shrinkage, and maintains the original qualities of the fabric surface. Anti-felting finish is applied by adding synthetic resins to the fibre and then a second solution is applied using heat to finish the process. Chemical Finishes

Stone & Sand washing: Stone washing is a process used to give newly manufactured garments a worn-out appearance. Stone-washing helps increase the softness and flexibility of stiff and rigid fabrics such as canvas and denim. The process uses large stones to roughen up the fabric being processed. The garments are placed in a large horizontal industrial clothes washer that is also filled with large stones. As the wash cylinder rotates, the cloth fibres are repeatedly pounded and beaten as the tumbling stones ride up the paddles inside the drum and fall back down onto the fabric. Sand washing: The process of washing fabric or a garment with sand to soften and distress the look of the fabric. This can also be done at home using a light sandpaper to distress the fabric.

Sketch / picture of product Finish to be appliedReason

Finish ProcessPurpose End-use Brushing (mechanical) Fabric brushed with fine wire brushes  Feels warmer/softer  Fuzzy finish  Fur fabrics  Blankets  Flannel  Nylon Calendering (mechanical) Fabric fed between metal rollers, which squashes the thread making them pack closer together  Smoother surface  Stiffer  Look shinier  Polish surface  Emboss a pattern  Chintz  Cire  Glazed cotton Flame proofing (chemical) Fabric saturated with special chemicals, or resin  Less flammable  Forms a coating which cuts off oxygen supply  Chemically changes fibres  Children’s nightwear  Furnishing fabrics  -Proban Water repellent (chemical) Fabric is coasted with a special finish – usually silicone  Stops water soaking into fabric  Allows air to pass through  Drops of water cannot spread out – roll off  Raincoats  Anoraks  -Teflon  -Scotchguard Crease resistant (chemical) Heat resin finish to make fabric dry fast and smooth and need little or no ironing  Removes the need for ironing  Trousers  Shirts  -Dan press  - PP Super crease Stain resistant (chemical) Fabric is coated with a special finish contain silicone and fluorine  Prevent dirt and grease clinging to fabric  Oil does not spread – rolls off  Carpets  Upholstery  -Teflon Shrink resistant (chemical) Fibre scales removed with chlorine, or resins coat fibres to coat the scales  Prevents shrinkage due to felting  Machine washable wool  Superwash Permanent pleating (mechanical) Heat set thermoplastic fibres, apply resin press and cure by heat, heat set blends  Gives permanent creases to pleats in garments  Polyester, nylone, acrylic.  Cotton, viscose.  Fabric blends

Testing of materials…. Testing before manufacture ensures the production of quality textile products, avoids costly mistakes and protects the consumer against faulty or unsafe goods. Tests carried out are usually from: Manufacturing specifications. Fibre testing processes – identify fibre content Fabric testing processes – identify properties of fabric Manufacturing prototypes to test for performance – quality control checks Consumer testing – test for performance and acceptability Tests on textiles need to be carried out under controlled conditions to make sure they are fit for purpose.

Products need to be tested to British Standards specifications and include the correct safety symbols: The Kitemark is a UK product and service quality certification mark which is owned and operated by The British Standards Institution (BSI Group). The Kitemark is most frequently used to identify products where safety is paramount. The CE Mark is the first supplier's statement that his toys meet the essential safety requirements of the European Toy Safety Directive, and that such toys are therefore entitled to free movement throughout the Community. The Lion Mark was developed by the British Toy & Hobby Association as a symbol of toy safety and quality for the consumer, exactly what the CE Mark is not. Nightwear for children must carry a permanent label to show they meet the flammability standard.