SHAVING

1.Backhand Stroke: Razor position and stroke used in 4 of the 14 basic shaving areas 2,6,8 and 9 2.Close Shave: The procedure of shaving facial hair against the grain during the second-time-over 3.Cutting Stroke: The correct angle of cutting the beard with a straight razor 4.Freehand Stroke: Razor position and stroke used in 6 of the 14 shaving areas 1,3,4,7,11, and 12 5.Neck Shave: Shaving the areas behind the ears, down the sides of the neck and at the back neckline

1.Once-over Shave: Single lather shave in which the shaving strokes are made across the grain of hair 2.Reverse Backhand Stroke: Razor position and stroke used for making the left sideburn outline and shaving the left side behind the ear during a neck shave 3.Reverse Freehand Stroke: Razor position and stoke used in 4 of the 14 basic shaving areas 5, 10, 13, and 14 4.Second-time-over-shave: A close shave 5.Styptic powder: alum powder used to stop bleeding of nicks and cuts

HISTORY SHAVING WAS INTRODUCED BY MACEDONIANS DURING THE MIDDLE AGES BARBERS WERE KNOW AS BARBER SURGEONS SYMBOL OF BARBER POLE – RED = BLOOD, BLUE = VEINS, WHITE = BANDAGES & THE BOTTOM SYMBOLIZES THE BASIN USED TO CATCH THE BLOOD DURING A PROCESS KNOWN AS BLOODLETTING BARBER IS DERIVED FROM THE LATIN WORD “BARBA” MEANING BEARD

HISTORY CONTINUED EARLY BARBERS USED CRUDE INSTRUMENTS LIKE FLINT AND OYSTER SHELLS TO SHAVE IN EARLY YEARS THERE WERE LOST OF SUPERSTITIONS – SOME PEOPLE BELIEVED YOU COULD BEWITCH PEOPLE BY SAVING THEIR HAIR CLIPPINGS. THEREFORE IN SOME CULTURES ONLY CERTAIN PEOPLE WERE ALLOWED TO CUT THEIR HAIR SUCH AS A PRIEST OR MEDICINE MAN OF THE TRIBE. OTHERS BELIEVED IN BURYIN HAIR CLIPPINGS SO NO EVIL SPIRITS COULD BOTHER THE PERSON THEY WERE CLIPPED FROM OTHER CULTURES BELIEVED LON HAIRED PEOPLE POSSESSED MAGICAL OR MYSTICAL TRAITS SOME EARLY GENERALS ORDERED THEIR MEN TO BE CLEAN SHAVEN TO AVOID THEIR BEARDS BEING SEIZED IN BATTLE. HENCE THE TRADITION IN THE MILITARY FOR “BUZZ” CUTS

IMPLEMENTS IMPLEMENTS SHOULD ALWAYS BE OF SUPERIOR QUALITY, THE BARBER IS NO BETTER THAN THE TOOLS HE OR SHE USES PRINCIPLE IMPLEMENTS USED: RAZOR, SHEARS, CLIPPERS ACCESSORIES: HONES, STROPS, COMBS, BRUSHES AND LATHERIZERS

PARTS OF THE STRAIGHT RAZOR

BALANCE OF THE RAZOR REFERS TO THE RELATIVE WEIGHT OF THE BLADE AS IT RELATES TO THE HANDLE PROPER BALANCE – THE WEIGHT OF THE BLADE SHOULD = THAT OF THE HANDLE

TEMPER REFERS TO THE HEAT TREATMENT GIVEN BY THE MANUFACTURER WHICH GIVES THE BLADE A CERTAIN DEGREE OF HARDNESS HARD – HOLD AN EDGE LONGEST BUT IS VERY DIFFICULT TO SHARPEN SOFT – EASY TO SHARPEN BUT DOES NOT HOLD EDGE VERY LONG MEDIUM – IN BETWEEN NOTE THE MOST POPULAR IS SOFT

SIZE REFERS TO THE LENGTH AND WIDTH OF THE BLADE THE WIDTH IS MEASURED IN EIGHTS OR SIXTEENTHS OF AN INCH (MOST GENERALLY IN 8THS) THE 5/8 AND 9/16 ARE THE TWO MOST COMMON SIZES

STYLE THE STYLE INDICATES ITS SHAPE AND DESIGN THE MODERN RAZOR HAS A STRAIGHT, PARALLEL BACK AND EDGE, A ROUND HEAL, A SQUARE POINT, A FLAT OR SLIGHTLY ROUND HANDLE TO PREVENT SCRATCHING THE SKIN THE BARBER USUALLY ROUNDS OFF THE SQUARE POINT, BY DRAWING THE POINT OF THE RAZOR ALONG THE EDGE OF THE HONE

GRIND REFERS TO THE SHAPE OF THE BLADE AFTER IT IS GROUND BY THE MFR. 2 TYPES = CONCAVE – WHICH COMES IN FULL, ½ AND ½ CONCAVE WEDGE – GOOD FOR COARSE BEARDS, HARD TO SHARPEN CONCAVE IS MOST PREFERRED

FINISH THE CONDITION OF THE SURFACE 3 TYPES= PLAIN STEEL POLISHED STEEL METAL PLATED (NICKEL OR SILVER) MOST POPULAR IS POLISHED STEEL (CROCUS) LASTS LONGEST & DOESN’T RUST

HONES A HONE IS A RECTANGULAR BLOCK OF ABRASIVE MATERIAL USED TO SHARPEN A RAZOR 3 TYPES OF HONES: 1.NATURAL HONE- DERIVED FROM ROCK DEPOSITS. THEY MUST BE USED WET (WATER OR LATHER) THEY ARE CALLED “WATER HONES” THEY PUT A VERY SHARP EDGE ON THE RAZOR AND ARE USUALLY BROWNISH IN COLOR. THESE ARE SLOW CUTTING HONES. 2.SYNTHETIC HONE – MAN MADE PRODUCT; THERE ARE 2 TYPES “SWATTY” & “CARBORUNDUM”. THEY CUT FASTER THAN WATER HONES, CAN BE USED WET OR DRY. THEY GIVE A FINE CUTTING EDGE QUICKLY 3.COMBINATION HONES – 2 SIDED; NATURAL HONE IS GLUED TO A BLOCK OF SYNTHETIC. THE SYNTHETIC WOULD BE USED FIRST & THE NATURAL LAST

CARE OF HONES ALWAYS CLEAN BEFORE AND AFTER USE WITH 70% ALCOHOL AFTER SEVERAL USES THE STEEL PARTICLES MUST BE CLEANED FROM THE SURFACE USING PUMICE STONE AND WATER

HOW TO HONE A RAZOR IS HONED ON THE BLOCK USING A FIGURE 8 MOTION

STROPS/ STROPPING A STROP IS INTENDED TO BRING THE RAZOR TO A SMOOTH WETTED EDGE. IT IS USED TO FINISH THE SURFACE OF THE BLADE AFTER IT HAS BEEN SHARPENED STROPPING IS THE ART OF SMOOTHING AND SHAPING THE RAZOR’S EDGE INTO A KEEN CUTTING IMPLEMENT THERE ARE 5 TYPES OF STROPS

1.FRENCH OR GERMAN STROP USUALLY A COMBINATION STROP W/ LEATHER ON 1 SIDE AND A LINEN ON THE OTHER

2. CANVAS MADE WITH A HIGH QUALITY SILK OR LINEN WOVEN INTO A FINE OR COARSE TEXTURE FINE TEXTURE LINEN IS MOST PREFERRED FOR PUTTING A LASTING EDGE ON THE RAZOR

3.COWHIDE AKA – RUSSIAN USUALLY MADE OF COWHIDE USING THE RUSSIAN METHOD OF TANNING CONSIDERED ONE OF THE BEST IN USE TODAY

4.HORESHIDE 2 TYPES A- ORDINARY HORSEHIDE – MEDIUM GRADE AND HAS A FINE SMOOTH GRAIN – NOT RECOMMENDED FOR PROFESSIONAL USE B- RUSSIAN SHELL – HIGH QUALITY LEATHER FROM THE RUMP OF THE ANIMAL; THIS IS CONSIDERED THE BEST AND DOES NOT REQUIRE BREAKING IN

IMITATION LEATHER HAS NOT PROVEN SATISFACTORY – AVOID THIS STROP

CARE OF STROP MUST NOT BE FOLDED OR BENT SHOULD BE HUNG THEY CAN BE TREATED AND CLEANED WITH STROP DRESSING ACCUMULATED GRIT SHOULD FIRST BE REMOVED BY RUBBING WITH LATHER AFTER LATER, RUB THE STROP DRESSING INTO THE STROP

USE OF STROP FIRST STROKE: START STROKE AT THE TOP EDGE OF THE STROP CLOSEST TO THE CHAIR DRAW THE RAZOR PERFECTLY FLAT WITH BACK LEADING STRAIGHT OVER THE SURFACE OF THE STROP BEAR JUST HEAVILY ENOUGH ON THE STROP TO FEEL THE RAZOR DRAW SPEED WILL COME WITH PRACTICE

USE OF STROP CONT’D SECOND STROKE: TURN THE RAZOR ON THE BACK OF THE BLADE BY ROLLING IT IN THE FINGERS WITHOUT TURNING THE HAND USE A LONG DIAGONAL STROKE WITH EVEN PRESSURE FROM THE HEEL TO THE POINT DRAW THE RAZOR AWAY FROM YOU TOWARDS THE CHAIR

TESTING OF THE RAZOR ON A MOISTENED TIP OF THUMB NAIL DRAW THE RAZOR A DULL EDGE PRODUCES A DRAWING FEELING A PROPERLY EDGED RAZOR THAT IS KEEN WILL TEND TO STICK AND NOT SLIDE ALONG IF THE EDGE PRODUCES A DISAGREEABLE SOUND IT IS TOO COURSE AND REQUIRES EXTRA STROPPING A PROPERLY EDGED RAZOR SHOULD DIG INTO THE NAIL WITH A SMOOTH AND STEADY GRIP

THE SHAVE IS CLASSIFIED INTO 3 SECTIONS: THE PREPARATION THE PROCEDURE THE FINISH

PREPARATION SANITIZE HANDS DRAPE CLIENT

PROCEDURE APPLY HOT TOWEL OPEN AND SANITIZE RAZOR APPLY SHAVING CREAM USING CUSHION OF FINGERTIPS IN A ROTARY MOVEMENT SHAVE THE 14 AREAS USING THE CORRECT STROKES HOT/COLD TOWEL APPLY ASTRINGENT APPLY TALC USING MITT APPLICATION

FINISH REMOVE TOWELS AND DRAPE CLEAN UP WORK STATION COMB CLIENTS HAIR

LATHERING – IS A VERY IMPORTANT STEP PRIOR TO SHAVING BECAUSE: CLEANS THE FACE BY DISLODGING DIRT SOFTENS THE HAIR AND HOLDS IT IN AN ERECT POSITION AFFORDS A SMOOTH, FLAT SURFACE FOR THE RAZOR TO GLIDE OVER RUB LATHER BRISKLY INTO BEARDED AREA USING ROTARY MOVEMENTS WITH THE CUSHION OF THE FINGERTIPS (ONE HAND ONLY)

STEAMING SOFTENS THE CUTICLE OF THE HAIR PROVIDES LUBRICATION BY STIMULATING THE ACTION OF THE OIL GLANDS OPENS THE FOLLICLE TO ALLOW FOR A CLOSER SHAVE SOOTHS AND RELAXES THE CLIENT NEVER APPLY A STEAM TOWEL (OR SHAVE) IF FACE IS SENSITIVE, IRRITATED, CHAPPED, BLISTERED OR COVERED WITH ACNE

4 STANDARD SHAVING POSITIONS & STROKES Freehand – face your client, stroke toward yourself #1,3,4,8,11,12 Backhand – stroke away from yourself #2,6,7,9 Reverse Freehand – stand behind client & stroke toward yourself #5,10,13,14 (Reverse Backhand – used only on the left side back of neck )

INGROWN HAIRS HAIRS THAT HAVE GROWN BENEATH THE SKIN CAUSING A LUMP IN WHICH PUS FORMS. USUALLY CAUSED BY VERY CLOSE SHAVING OR THE RUBBING OF A SHIRT COLLAR CURLY HAIR PEOPLE ARE MORE PRONE TO INGROWN HAIRS

HOW TO MAKE A POWDER MITT