1 From Fiber to Yarn Chapter 18

2 Natural Fibers Cotton Flax Wool silk

3 Cellulose Fibers Come from vegetable (plant) sources Cotton Widely used, great for clothing Inexpensive, comfortable See page 280 for pros and cons

4 Cotton is picked Taken to the gin = machine that separate fibers from the seed Compressed into bales (wrapped and sold to mills)

5 Milling Clean and separate cotton Shaped into lap = continuous layer of fibers wrapped around a cylinder Carding machine = spinning cylinder covered with short, wire points

6 Drawing = carded slivers combined into a single drawn sliver Which is stretched Finder cottons are combed Roving frame twists and pulls strands

7 Cotton has a great deal of competition Regained popularity Shrinkage has been controlled

8 Flax Fiber used to make linen Used for tablecloths, kitchen towels, draperies, etc Expensive fabric

9 Flax Harvest Threshing machines remove seeds Stalks allowed to dry Stalks are scutched (crushed) Next hackled (clean & straightened) Finally yarns are spun

10 Strongest natural fibers Smooth, durable, lustrous Less lint or fuzz Flax is the coolest fiber you can wear Wrinkles less

11 Ramie “China Grass” Shrubby plant Strong, lustrous, absorbs moisture, dries quickly Combine with other fibers Adds strength to fabrics

12 Jute Rough, coarse fiber and a natural odor Burlap bags and decorative items and accessories Not a strong fiber Weakens with age

13 Protein Fibers Animal sources Wool and silk Specialty hair (cashmere (goats), angora (rabbits))

14 Wool Soft and warm Australia ranks first in wool production U.S. ranks 6 th Warm and lightweight Absorbs moisture See pros and cons on page 287

15 Wool Process Shear sheep Fleece removed in one piece Quality depends on health of sheep and climate Fibers are graded and sorted for quality

16 Wool is scoured (washed) to remove natural oil (lanolin) Lanolin is used in cosmetics, shampoos, and ointments Wood is carded to straighten fibers

17 Wool is often combined with other fibers Consumers can’t know how much is wool or not 1939 labeling law was passed and it requires wood to be classified

18 Wool – fiber has never been used before for a fabric or garment Reprocessed wool – were made into products that were never worn or used Reused wool – fibers have been used before in products such as clothing and blankets (make new products)

19 Silk Silk production are shown in page 292 Eat their own weight in leaves each day Spins a cocoon Cocoon is unwound by machine or hand Silk covered by a natural gum that needs to be removed by washing

20 Weighted silk –salts from tin, lead, or iron is added to silk to make it heavier Spun silk is used in making rough textured fabrics not as strong as “reeled silk” Silk is one of the strongest fibers Very elastic

21 Mineral Fiber Asbestos – white or light gray mineral fiber Does not burn Used in textiles for industrial purposes Protective clothing, ironing board covers, upholstery fabrics, etc

22 Long term exposure may cause health problems Tiny fibers become airborne It can be inhaled and settle in lungs Today it is replaced by novoloid or glass

23 Manufactured Fibers Small as spider’s web or as large as a rope Rayon was the first commercially produced fiber Followed by acetate and triacetate Made from fibrous substance in plant life

24 Manufacturing Fibers 1. solid raw material is changed to a liquid 2. the liquid is extruded through a spinneret 3. it hardens in the form of a filament

25 1. Solid material changed to a liquid Raw material becomes a thick liquid (like honey)

26 2. Liquid is extruded Spinneret is a small nozzle with many tiny holes and liquid is extruded Each tiny hole forms one fiber Several fibers make a filament (a continuous strand of fibers)

27 3. Filament hardens Directly into a chemical bath where they become solid Others harden when the liquid evaporates

28 Fiber Modifications Two factors affect properties of manufactured fibers 1. chemicals used to make fiber 2. way the fiber is treated during production

29 Fibers can be blended or combined Made from a single filament or many Twisted, crimped, coiled or looped (texturing)

30 Fiber Characteristics Rayon – like cotton Soft, comfortable, absorbent, inexpensive, versatile Acetate – looks and feel luxurious Crisp, drapes, dyed in a wide range of colors Neckties, scares, shirts, blouses, etc Should be dry cleaned

31 Triacetate – similar to acetate in appearance More resistant to sunlight, wrinkles, shrinkage Permanent creases and pleats dresses, shirts, blouses, etc

32 Nylon – very strong and durable Elastic and keeps its shape Lightweight, lustrous and easy to dye Low in absorbency, static electricity is a problem Pilling is also a problem

33 Polyester – very resistant to wrinkles, stretching, shrinking, bleach, sunlight, moths, and mildew Versatile Pilling may be a problem Oily stains are difficult to remove

34 Polyester can be used alone or blended Can be machine washed and dried

35 Olefin – lightest fiber made Floats on water Low absorption, resist wrinkles, soil, water based, stains, mildew and insects Strong, durable, inexpensive

36 Acrylic – replacement for wool Soft, warm, lightweight Keeps its shape well Resists sunlight, chemicals and wrinkles

37 Modacrylic – flame resistant Soft, warm, resists shrinkage Used to make fake fur

38 Rubber – natural and synthetic rubber Latex – natural rubber comes from rubber trees Waterproof coats, boots, gloves

39 Spandex – elastic like rubber Made entirely from chemicals Resistant to sunlight, oil, perspiration, abrasion Woven and knitted fabrics Bleach and chlorine may damage it