LIFECYCLE OF A UK BRAND The Knowledge 1 day Conference 19 th May 2006

DEVELOPMENT ACTIVITIES Concept, design & sourcing New fabrics and trims Interpretation of design Product analysis (specification at various stages of production) Pattern construction (at various stages of development) Manufacturing needs Costs Analysis Production schedule Maintaining standards Reporting and feedback

Concept, design and sourcing Market research – knowledge of target market, trends, new developments, target price Agreed standards – awareness of agreed standards for quality, sizing and raw materials Concept – Set Brand concepts and objectives for the coming season Design brief – information to Designers Schedules – set targets and deadlines, agree range plans Supplier knowledge – transfer of standards and expectations for finished product Supplier sourcing and allocation – match product to supplier Information update – efficient archiving and updates

New Fabrics and Trims Source / identify materials Obtain materials specification Ensure material meets minimum requirements Check compatibility within product Apply internal / external tests as required Relate fabric characteristics to pattern Define machinery needs * Red font highlights manufacturing operations Checklist:  Wash  Shrinkage  Colour fastness  Tear strength  Abrasion  Flexing  Cold crack  Pilling  Strike through  Compatibility  Hydrostatic head  Effects on components  Tapability  Historical issues

Interpretation of Design Ist proto: Decide block for basis Check sizing Identify changes from base block to given sketch Identify prototype raw materials requirements Instruct pattern technician Create prototype specifications Prepare initial costing (estimate) Prototype reference number materialsmanufacturepattern

Product Analysis Prototype issues Collate comment on samples from commercial representatives Identify improvements Update sketches, working drawings, specifications Fit session – base size using standard model Size set requirement Summarise comments for manufacturer Summary of comments for sales information Process issues Fabric shrinkage – effects on pattern and method of manufacture Confirmation of care instructions to confirm wash label requirements Wearer trials Fit session Size trials

Pattern modification - basic Entry level (basic skills) Rename existing product Change of materials Part colour change Add or remove logo Change of logo

Pattern modification - moderate Mid level (moderate skills) Addition of multiple logo Addition of existing feature Removal of a feature Changing a feature Changing dimensions Changing sizing

Pattern modification - advanced Advanced level Style change Modify fit Invent new feature Grading Special grading

Manufacturing needs Guidelines / parameters for manufacture: Cutting trials – to determine lay depths, lengths and cutting parameters Stitch trials – to determine guidelines for tensions, stitch length Sewing machine attachments Special instructions regarding techniques Tape machines – trials, set up and settings In-process testing In-process QC inspection Schedule supplier visits to promote / maintain standards

Product specification – 1 st proto Pattern = base size only Grid – base size, prototype colour Cut specification Trim specification – base size only Estimated cost (educated estimate)

Product specification – Bulk sample Review, amend pattern = base size only Layplan for usages (base size only) Confirm logo details, order tapes, prints etc where applicable – create logo specification Review grid (base size only) add bulk sample colour and logo details Review cut specification, add logo details Review trim specification – base size only Define method of manufacture (use bulk sample manufacture as a trial) Estimate standard minute values (SM’s), add to matrix Agree and fix warehouse cost Make bulk samples

Product specification – Bulk production Review, amend pattern, apply grade for all sizes Layplan - review usages Review grid – extend to include all colours and all sizes Review cut specification Review trim specification – extend for all sizes Review logo specification – extend for all colours Review method of manufacture Create garment specification (including size chart) Confirm standard minute values (SM’s), update matrix Check costs – variance by product vs warehouse cost Make bulk production Re-assess ‘variance by product vs warehouse cost’ at 3, 6, and 9 month periods

Summary of Costing Process 1 st prototype; E1 = Estimated cost (educated estimate) Bulk sample; S1 = Agree and fix warehouse cost Bulk production assessment; B1 = Variance by product vs warehouse cost Bulk production actual A1 = 3 month assessment - variance by product vs warehouse cost A2 = 6 month assessment - variance by product vs warehouse cost A3 = 9 month assessment - variance by product vs warehouse cost

Production schedule Schedule order of work, taking into account; Pattern status Specification status Product analysis Test criteria Size set requirement Trials Approvals and confirmations Production timescales and planned QC visits Delivery requirements

Maintaining standards Build in quality at development Testing and verification of raw materials and products Product analysis Quality checks within manufacturing process  Inspection, preventative maintenance and calibration of machinery  On line inspection at cut, stitch, tape, pass  Measurement checks at cut, stitch and pass  On-line tests, for example taped seam tester  Monitoring QC issues and Customer returns

Reporting and feedback Strive for excellence by feeding back into the development cycle Initial testing – raw material or product Issues arising from manufacture Issues arising from wear testing Non conformance summary Customer returns analysis Customer feedback

Responsibilities

In Summary: Potential skills deficits Due to the off-shore manufacturing many new-comers do not have access to a manufacturing unit and therefore are unable to fully visualise associated processes and techniques. Areas of concern include; Cutting issues / layplans Manufacturing techniques Quality assurance (process implementation and control) Costing Patterns / grading / fit / modification Construction methods (3-D) Transportation Communication issues Language