INTERLINING BIDAN G STUDI KEAHLIAN: SENI, KERAJINAN DAN PARIWISATA PROGRAM STUDI KEAHLIAN: TATA BUSANA KOMPETENSI KEAHLIAN: BUSANA BUTIK STANDAR KOMPETENSI: MEMILIH BAHAN BAKU BUSANA KOMPETENSI DASAR: MENGIDENTIFIKASI JENIS BAHAN UTAMA DAN BAHAN PELAPIS ALOKASI WAKTU

INTERLINING IGTC.Bogor. Indonesia

Interlinings are designed to provide optimum harmony with outer fabrics and stability to all parts and the shape of the garments. A quality shirt has interlining in the :  Collar  Cuffs  Front Placket  Pocket flaps ( if any) Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata INTERLINING

INTERLINING – the qualities Interlining, invisible from the outside, ensures an accurate fit and optimum wearer comfort if it matches the characteristics of the outer garment fabric. The product range contains many different qualities to cover the great variety of fabrics and garment details. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

INTERLINING – the qualities They support and reinforce critical areas. The type of quality in interlining used determines the handle, shape and durability of our clothing. It is essential to choose right type of quality for each specific garment.

Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata INTERLINING – fusing Fusing refers to a permanent bonding of an interlining to the outer (or inner) fabric of a garment by means of an adhesive. It gives specific part stability, good appearance and long lasting quality even after many washes One side (single fusing) or two sides (double fusing) of the lining are coated with adhesive and two varieties exist.

INTERLINING – fusing  SCATTER TYPE- one or two sides of the lining have a “glazed” surface which melt under certain conditions and becomes attached to the fabric of the garment.  DOT TYPE – one or two sides of the lining have “dotted” adhesives – single or double dots – which evenly melt under certain conditions and thereby attach itself to the fabric Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

INTERLINING – fusing equipment Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata Three methods exist and give variable results. It is recommended to use modern, automatic equipment to satisfy today’s high quality expectations.

INTERLINING – fusing equipment This “ conveyor” fusing press allows an exact setting of the needed time, pressure and temperature which are constantly maintained inside the machine The fused parts pass through a “cooling chamber”, the adhesive property is excellent. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

INTERLINING – fusing equipment The” moveable “ flat bed press is semi-automatic, time + pressure + temperature however vary. The fused parts, still hot, are removed by hand and placed on a table to cool off. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

INTERLINING – fusing equipment The fusing fastness needs to be constantly controlled. The quality of “ hand” fusing with an iron relies of the operator to control the pressure and time whilst the temperature is variable This handling is risky, it lead to quality problems. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

INTERLINING – choosing the right quality Points to be considered in choosing interlining:  Must fit the thickness of the cloth  Match the type, construction of the cloth  Match the color of the fabric  Fabric and interlining must not change shape during fusing process  Fused fabric to be suitable in accordance with care label instructions  Carry out a “ cloth-interlining” test before production. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

INTERLINING- possible performance problems Quality problems may arise due to a wrong choice or processing of the interlining.  The part being fused may change size or shape  When fused at the wrong temperature, time or pressure, partial or complete separation of cloth and lining might occur  Hardening of fused parts  The adhesive comes through the cloth Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

INTERLINING - possible performance problems  The color of the cloth faded and no longer matches other parts of the garment.  Bubbles, curls or waves appear on the surface of the cloth after washing Advance fusing tests are necessary to safeguard against later quality problems. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

INTERLINING – frequently used words Make sure that you understand terms as frequently used in connection with interlinings. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata The wordsExplanations InterliningA fabric as used in the garment production to forty-fy certain parts but is not visible from the outside Woven non- fusableA woven fabric that is placed between two layers of cloth, for instance a collar or cuff. It is stitched to the fabric only Woven fusableThe same fabric but coated with adhesive. It is “glued” and not necessarily stitched to the fabric Non- woven Non - fusable A “ Paper-Like” light weight interlining made from synthetic raw materials. It is stitched to the fabric only. Non- woven fusable The same quality but coated with adhesive. It is “glued” and not necessarily stitched to the fabric. AdhesiveThe “ glue” of fusable interlining

INTERLINING – frequently used words The wordsExplanations Single fusingAdhesive on one side of the interlining only Double fusingAdhesive on both sides of the interlining ( mostly used for woven lining and the collar of a dress shirt) Scattered FusingThe adhesive is like an even coating on the lining Dot FusingThe adhesive is in small dots with space between, When fused, the dots melt and spread out. Seni Kerajinan dan Pariwisata

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