Chanoknart Mayusoh Suan Sunandha Rajabhat University, Thailand The art of designing, fabric pattern by tie-dyeing with natural dyes.

INTRODUCTION Tie-dyed products are a result of local wisdom of unique patterns and colors in cotton fiber, which is a natural material. A simple design process begins with designing the patterns and colors from natural ingredients. These are the unique natures of the tie-dyeing, which is transmitted from generation to generation.

INTRODUCTION Hence, the researchers have attempted to study the design process of dyeing with natural dyes to mimic the qualities of synthetic dyes, including the color shades and they often forget about the unique qualities of natural colors and try to apply the rules and criteria of synthetic dyes to natural substances, especially in terms of the durability of the dye, which is very different.

The purpose of the research project To study the history, types, style, technique, and process of tie-dyeing. To study the extraction of dyes from natural materials that can be used to make fabric dye. To study the process of designing fabric patterns with tie-dyeing technique. To integrate with the project to promote academic career building. Added expertise about making tie dye. And strengthening the community To build knowledge in accordance with the syllabus to develop design and work on the topic of designing tie-dye fabrics and making tie-dye pattern design for the course TOD 3212 and the extraction of natural colors in the course TOD 3309 traditional weaving.

Research Methodology Conceptual framework of the research project. Studying documents Field study Small group chat Media Confirm the findings Knowledge Creation ** Production of designs of tie-dye scarves.

Tie-dye patterns Tie-dying is preventing the color of the dye to absorb into certain parts of the fabric by folding, crumpling, wrapping, sewing, clamping, or a combination of methods, followed by tying the fabric with string or elastic bands. Then, the fabric is emerged into either one or several colored dyes to create the desired pattern. Each method creates unique and different patterns. The dyer must study and experiment with these methods meticulously to make sure that they can achieve the desired end result. (Department of Industrial Promotion, 1997, P.45) Tie-dye patterns Finding

Tie-dye on fabric is a tradition that has carried over in many countries such as Thailand, Malaysia, India, Japan, etc., and is collectively referred to as " Plangi”. It originated in Central Asia, then spread to Japan and India through merchants traveling through trade contacts throughout Asia. In India.it is called " Banthana”, which means to tie or to bond. In Japan, it is called “Shibori”, which means tying or knotting. (Chuang Moolpinij,1995, P.32). Shibori Tie-dye

The natural dyes are derived from plants, various animals, and mineral can be dyed with both hot and cold dye. The natural color is dependent on stimulants that speeds up the absorption of the color and prevents the bleeding of color during washing. (Visanu Dathong, 2010, (29 September 2014)). Natural Dyes

The Groups of Natural Dyes Grouped by color as follows: Reds : Lac, wild mulberry, rambai, kernel, achiote, myrobalan bark Yellows : turmeric, Pood wood kernel, night jasmine, sappan root, tamarind leaves, raw bel fruit Browns : Mangrove bark, Cutch bark, Payom bark, Pomegranate peel, Kang bark, white Poeng bark Navy blues : Gourd leaves, Tropical almond leaves, Indian trumpet bark, Mergui bark, myrobalan bark, Rahood bark, Lien leaves Blacks : Diospyros fruit, Pipekmyrobalan fruit, False daisy leaves, Leum Olives, Asna bark, Tubtao fruit, Tomato peel

Method of operation Extraction and Dyeing with natural color from sappan woodbark Instructions Dyeing with natural color from sappan woodbark and products that can be achieved

Extraction and Dyeing with natural color from Purple cabbage Instructions Dyeing with natural color from purple cabbage and products that can be achieved

Extraction and Dyeing with natural color from basil leaves Instructions Dyeing with natural color from basil leaves and products that can be achieved

Extraction and Dyeing with natural color from mango peels Instructions Dyeing with natural color from mango peels and products that can be achieved

Operating Results Designing tie-dye patterns for 4 pieces of fabric as follows: Item 1dyes with colors extracted from sappan bark Dyes with colors extracted from sappan bark

Item 2 dyed with colors extracted from purple cabbage Dyes with colors extracted from purple cabbage Item 3.dyed with colors extracted from basil leaves Dyed with colors extracted from basil leaves

Operating Results Designing tie-dye patterns for 4 pieces of fabric as follows: Item 4 dyed with colors extracted from mango peel Dyes with colors extracted from mango peel

Conclusion In these patterns, the researcher studied the extraction of natural dyes from 4 types of plants: Sappan wood bark, purple cabbage, basil, and mango peel. Then the preliminary design principles of tie-dye is applied: folding, crimping, wrapping, clamping, and sewing, combined until a new pattern is formed to produce colorful and beautiful scarves.

Further Suggestions Those interested in the extraction of natural dyes can try other types of plants that have never been used before, or try to combine plants and animals to achieve new knowledge and develop into knowledge that can be distributed and used in other forms of creative work. Tie dye patterns cannot be duplicated.. It is likely that those who are interested can learn and create new techniques. The endless possibilities and the knowledge to make tie dye colors from natural extracts can continue on in the next generation as well.

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