Culinary History Principles of Hospitality and Tourism

Culinary History Understanding the past helps you to understand the present By studying culinary history, chefs learn about –the social customs, ingenuity, values, and religious beliefs of the time –past culinary practices © Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.

Greeks Never dined out, but enjoyed the social aspects of eating, so they ate together. Private clubs – Lesche (LES-kee) Catered to travelers- Phatnai (FAAT-nay) People brought their own food, such as grapes, olives, bread from barley dried fish, cheese & wine to clubs. Meals nourished the souls as well as the body. Ate reclined on couches, enjoyed music, poetry & dancing during the meal. Epicurus lead the idea that the purpose of life was pleasure and it was achieved through restraint and balance. An Epicurean is now referred to a person with a refined taste for food & wine.

Ancient Rome Ancient Rome (625 BC–476 AD) followed ancient Greece as the dominant power © Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.

Romans Dining in public was undignified, so most meals were served in the home. Desire for exotic foods & spices expanded the Roman Empire. With power came increased wealth, which they lavishly spent on banquets for friends, clients and others.

© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Ancient Rome Apicius wrote the first complete Western cookbook, De re coquinaria, during this time Apicius’ book describes challenging culinary dishes with complex flavor profiles Marcus Apicius took great effort to obtain the most exotic foods for his feasts. He wrote one of the earliest cookbooks called De Re Coquinaria. Recipes are still used today.

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Cooking of the Middle Ages With the fall of Rome to invading armies in 476 AD, Europe entered the Middle Ages The Middle Ages lasted for at least 1,000 years During these years, Europe was carved into smaller kingdoms that wrestled one another for power © Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.

Serfs worked fields/Landowners had banquets Ate with fingers, knives and “trenchers” Aristocracy craved spices Food Prep system now called “Haute Cuisine” Coffee Houses opened – major cities Middle Ages 800 AD-1300 AD

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The Religious Influence During this time, the Catholic Church influenced European life and dining habits Catholic monasteries preserved records of ancient cooking practices They also preserved and improved the art of baking as well as cheese, wine, and beer making © Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.

The Influence of Arab Culture During the Middle Ages, the Arabs invaded and ruled Southern Europe and Northern Africa With Arab culture came new ingredients, recipes, techniques, and culinary traditions including –almonds –eggplant –citrus fruits –distillation –addition of sugar and ground nuts to savory dishes © Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.

Cooking of the Renaissance During the Renaissance, the exchange of culinary traditions between France, Spain, and Italy increased greatly This slow and steady refining of French cooking eventually lead to the popularity of French cuisine around the world © Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.

Cooking Ingredients Crisscross Continents When explorers discovered the New World, new foods were discovered. © Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.

Cooking Ingredients Crisscross Continents Tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, corn, chocolate, beans, and vanilla traveled from the New World to Europe Wheat, citrus fruit, sugar, cattle, and pigs made the voyage from Europe to the New World © Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.

Cooking of the 1700s and 1800s Prior to the beginning of the French Revolution, chefs worked in the homes of the wealthy As many of these wealthy elite either lost their lives or fled France, chefs lost their jobs © Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.

Guilds were formed First Restaurant Boulanger End of Revolution – Chefs out of work Paris restaurants in 30 years French Revolution

Colonial North America ( ) 1634 an inn in Boston called Cole’s offered food and lodging to travelers. Very few people dined out, if they traveled, they stayed in inns, shared rooms and if they arrived after dinner, they went without. Coaching inns – on stagecoach routes.

Industrial Revolution Families moved to cities for work People needed to live close to factories Chemical fertilizers and pesticides invented Wealthy ate aged meat, cheese and sauces “Poor Man’s Food” veggies and whole grains

The Gilded Age Workers were subjected to long hours and low wages, while the profits for the owners continued to rise. When high society dined out, they did so in style. Delmonico’s and Astor House opened – elegant, up to 18 courses. The cafeteria was developed to serve food quickly and cheaply without servers. The chef uniform was developed by Careme. White to represent cleanliness.

Culinary Experimentation In the 1960s, some of the chefs who trained at La Pyramide introduced nouvelle cuisinea modern style of cooking that avoids rich, heavy foods and emphasizes the freshness of the ingredients and the presentation of the dishes. nouvelle cuisine © Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.

Many of these chefs were influenced by Asian food traditions In the late 1960s and early 1970s, Americans began watching cooking demonstrations on TV © Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.

Culinary Experimentation Ethnic cuisines, such as Thai, Mexican, Cajun, and Italian, were introduced to the American palate in the 1980s and 1990s Some chefs mixed the different cuisines to create various fusion cuisinesfusion cuisines Other chefs created variations of traditional regional American cuisines © Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.

The 20 th Century More people working, more people eating lunch away from home. Vitamins and refrigeration improved diets. Fast food – White Castle in Driving and the interstate freeway increased the number of hotels and quick service restaurants. Airline industry grew Eating out becomes as popular as eating at home. Large chains grow, especially in casual dining. The Food Network – 1993.

Louis Pasteur – invented pasteurization Nicholas Appert – father of “canning” Catherine de Medici (Italian) married Henry II (France) ◦ Introduced silverware to the French ◦ Brought Haute Cuisine to France ◦ Brought spinach, artichoke, and ice cream recipes Famous Chefs and Entrepreneurs

Chefs in History Marie-Antoine Careme Defined the art of Grand Cuisine Born to poor family in France Abandoned as a child and found work as a kitchen boy, worked his way up through the kitchen. Refined recipes, trained chefs. Created the chef coat Georges August Escoffier Refined Grand Cuisine into Classical Cuisine 1898 – with Cesar Ritz, opened the London Savoy Hotel. Categorized sauces in to 5 grand/mother sauces, he named dishes after famous individuals or events. Code of conduct and dress for kitchen staff. Kitchen brigade (responsibilities).

Cooking of the 1900s Escoffier’s contributions to cooking included –redefining the organization of the professional kitchen –emphasis on professionalism –simplifying the grande cuisine of Carême –his book Le Guide Culinaire, which systemized classic cuisineclassic cuisine © Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.

Georges – Auguste Escoffier Refined Grand Cuisine to Classical Cuisine Categorized 5 Mother Sauces Invented kitchen brigade system Established dress code for chefs

Chefs of the 20 th Century Fernand Point- The father of modern French cuisine. Julia Child- Popularized French cuisine. Paul Bocuse- Created lighter, healthier, dishes that still reflected classical French flavors. Alice Waters- Created dishes that used only seasonal, local products at the height of freshness. Ferdinand Metz- Certified Master Chef, Educated American Chefs.

The Kitchen Brigade

The Kitchen Brigade System A system of organization Created by Georges-Auguste Escoffier- French chef Early 1900s The system delegates responsibilities to different individuals that specialize in certain tasks.

History of Escoffier

Pre-test Match the title with the position description. 1. Executive Chef 2. Sous Chef 3. Saucier 4. Poissoner 5. Rotisseur 6. Grillardin 7. Garde Manger 8. Patissier 9. Tournant 10. Friturier a. Relief Cook b. Fish Chef c. Fry Chef d. Pastry Chef e. Cold Foods Chef f. Second in Command g. Sauté Chef h. Chef in charge i. Roasted and Braised Meats Chef j. Grill Chef

© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. The Brigade

Chef Chef (Chef de Cuisine)

Chef Chef in charge Aka: Executive Chef Aka: Chef de cuisine (shef deh kwih-ZEEN) “Chief of the kitchen” who supervises all kitchen positions Responsible for quality of food and safety of guests and staff

Sous Chef Chef (Chef de Cuisine) Sous Chef

Second in command of production and staff supervision Aka: sous-chef de cuisine (Su-shef) Assumes authority and responsibility in chef’s absence

Chefs de Partie Sous Chef Chef (Chef de Cuisine) Chefs de Partie

Aka: Station/Line Chefs Responsible for managing any station in the kitchen where they specialize in preparing particular dishes (shef deh pahr-TEE)

Chef de Garde Chef (Chef de Cuisine) Sous Chef Chefs de Partie Chef de Garde

Aka: Night Chef (shef deh GAHRD) Night chef in 24-hour kitchen In charge after the chef leaves for the evening

Communard Chef (Chef de Cuisine) Sous Chef Chefs de Partie Chef de Garde Communard

Communard Aka: Staff Cook (com-muh-NAHR) Prepares staff’s meals at large operations

Saucier Chef (Chef de Cuisine) Sous Chef Chefs de Partie Chef de Garde Communard Saucier

Saucier Aka: Saute Chef Prepares sauces as well as warm hors d’oeuvres and sautéed and panfried items (saucy-yay) or (saw-see YAY) Sautéing is a method of cooking food, that uses a small amount of oil or fat in a shallow pan over relatively high heat.cookingfoodoilfatpan

Garde Manger Chef (Chef de Cuisine) Sous Chef Chefs de Partie Chef de Garde Communard Saucier Garde Manger

Aka: Pantry Chef Cold Food Station Responsible for preparing cold hors d’oeuvres, salads, dressings, fruit plates sandwiches, marinades, brines, desserts, etc. (gahrd mohn-ZHAY)

Rotisseur Chef (Chef de Cuisine) Sous Chef Chefs de Partie Chef de Garde Communard Saucier Garde Manger Rotisseur

Rotisseur Aka: Roast Chef Roasts meats and poultry and prepares accompanying pan sauces and gravy Roasting is a cooking method that uses dry heat. (Row-tis-see-yer)

Entremetier Chef (Chef de Cuisine) Sous Chef Chefs de Partie Chef de Garde Communard Saucier Garde Manger Entremetier Rotisseur

Entremetier Aka: Vegetable Chef Prepares hot appetizers, vegetables, starches, pasta, and egg dishes. (ehn-treh-meh-tee YAY) Head of potager and legumier

Tournant Chef (Chef de Cuisine) Sous Chef Chefs de Partie Chef de Garde Communard Saucier Garde Manger Rotisseur Entremetier Tournant

Tournant Aka: Swing Chef Works in the kitchen where needed (toor-NAHN) Fills in for other staff members on their days off Also called the “roundsman”

Chef (Chef de Cuisine) Sous Chef Chefs de Partie Chef de Garde Communard Saucier Garde Manger Rotisseur Entremetier TournantPatissier Patissier

Patissier Aka: Pastry Chef Head of the baking and pastry department Prepares dessert items as well as other baked items on the menu. (pa-tis-yay)

Chef (Chef de Cuisine) Sous Chef Chefs de Partie Chef de Garde Communard Tournant Saucier Garde Manger Rotisseur Entremetier Patissier Poissonier Poissonier

Poissonier Aka: Fish Chef Prepares fish and seafood items. (pwah-sawn-YAY

Boucher Chef (Chef de Cuisine) Sous Chef Chefs de Partie Chef de Garde Communard Tournant Saucier Garde Manger Rotisseur Entremetier Patissier Poissonier Boucher

Boucher Aka: Butcher Butchers meats, poultry, and sometimes fish for other kitchen stations (boo-shay)

Grillardin Chef (Chef de Cuisine) Sous Chef Chefs de Partie Chef de Garde Communard Tournant Saucier Garde Manger Rotisseur Entremetier Patisseir Poissonier Boucher Grillardin

Grillardin Aka: Grill Cook This person prepares grilled and broiled menu selections. (gree-yar-don)

Friturier Grillardin Boucher Poissonier Patissier Entremetier Rotisseur Garde Manger Saucier Tournant Communard Chef de Garde Chefs de Partie Chef (Chef de Cuisine) Sous Chef Friturier

Friturier Aka: Fry Cook This person prepares deep-fried items. (free-to-ree-yay)

Potager Friturier Grillardin Boucher Poissonier Patissier Entremetier Rotisseur Garde Manger Saucier Tournant Communard Chef de Garde Chefs de Partie Chef (Chef de Cuisine) Sous Chef Potager

Potager Aka: Soup Chef (poh-tahj-AY) Makes all stocks, soups, and mother sauces

Legumier Potager Friturier Grillardin Boucher Poissonier Patissier Entremetier Rotisseur Garde Manger Saucier Tournant Communard Chef de Garde Chefs de Partie Chef (Chef de Cuisine) Sous Chef Legumier

Legumier Aka: Prep Cook (lay-goo-mee-YAY) Prepares and cooks vegetables When tasks are combined with those of the potager, called preparation station

Pastry Cook Legumier Potager Friturier Grillardin Boucher Poissonier Patissier Entremetier Rotisseur Garde Manger Saucier Tournant Communard Chef de Garde Chefs de Partie Chef (Chef de Cuisine) Sous Chef Pastry Cook

Aka: Am Pastry Prepares sweets and pastries Works in the bakeshop during the daytime

Baker Pastry Cook Legumier Potager Friturier Grillardin Boucher Poissonier Patissier Entremetier Rotisseur Garde Manger Saucier Tournant Communard Chef de Garde Chefs de Partie Chef (Chef de Cuisine) Sous Chef Baker

Baker Makes breads and may also make breakfast pastries Typically works during the night and early morning hours

Decorator Baker Pastry Cook Legumier Potager Friturier Grillardin Boucher Poissonier Patissier Entremetier Rotisseur Garde Manger Saucier Tournant Communard Chef de Garde Chefs de Partie Chef (Chef de Cuisine) Sous Chef Decorator

Decorator Aka: Cake Decorator Specialist who decorates cakes and pastries Also makes chocolate carvings or sugar sculptures Show pieces

Decorator Baker Pastry Cook Legumier Potager Friturier Grillardin Boucher Poissonier Patissier Entremetier Rotisseur Garde Manger Saucier Tournant Communard Chef de Garde Chefs de Partie Chef (Chef de Cuisine) Sous Chef 1 st Commis Commis 2 nd Commis

Commis Aka: Junior Cook (koh MEE) An assistant Also works in a particular station but reports directly to the chef de partie Takes care of the tools in that station

WHY is this important? Chef not responsible for the entire meal. Greater efficiency More consistent results

Organization of Modern Kitchen The way the kitchen is organized depends on many factors: ◦The menu ◦Type of Establishment  Hotel, Institutional Kitchens, Catering, Quick service restaurants, carry-out, etc. ◦Size of operation ◦Physical Facilities and Equipment Available

In Reality The Classical Brigade System would be replaced by grouping two jobs or more together. ◦One person working the grill, fryer, and broiler. If the task is simplistic, may only require a chef, two cooks, and two assistants.

View a Brigade in Action

Brigade in Action

The Kitchen Brigade Dining Room Organization

Maitre D’hotel Chef De Salle (Supervisor/Head Waiter) Chef D’etage (Captain) Chef De Rang Front Waiter Demi-Chef De Rang Back Waiter

Maitre D’hotel Dining Room Manager At the Top of the chain of command Meets with owners to discuss business issues Works with chef and sommelier to select what will go on the menu

Chef De Salle Supervisor- Head Waiter Responsible to oversee the service staff

Chef D’etage Captain Has the most contact with the diners Takes guests orders, tableside prep, answers guests questions

Chef De Rang Front Waiter Sees to the service needs of the guests: ◦Refills drinks ◦Removes plates between courses ◦Brings bread, chips and salsa, etc.

Demi- Chef De Rang Back Waiter / Busperson Clears away dishes Clean up

Sommelier AKA: Wine Expert responsible for all aspects of restaurant wine service, including purchasing wines, preparing a wine list, assisting guests in wine selection, and serving wine properly. The wine steward may also be responsible for the service of liquors, beers, and other beverages. If there is no wine steward, these responsibilities are generally assumed by the maître d’hôtel. (so-mal-lee-ya)

Fromager Cheese Expert Over 1750 different types of cheese (Fro-mag)