Chemical Texture Services Chapter 20 Chemical Texture Services 1

Learning Objectives Explain the four chemical reactions that take place during permanent waving. Explain the difference between an alkaline wave and a true acid wave. Explain the purpose of neutralization in permanent waving. Demonstrate safe and effective perm techniques. (continues) 2

Learning Objectives (continued) Describe how thio relaxers straighten the hair. Describe how hydroxide relaxers straighten the hair. Demonstrate safe and effective hydroxide relaxing techniques. Describe curl re-forming and how it restructures the hair. WHY STUDY CHEMICAL TEXTURE SERVICES? Chemical texture services allow stylists the opportunity to offer clients options to change the texture of their hair and explore the fashionable world of hairstyling. Knowing how to perform these services accurately, safely, and professionally will help build a trusting and loyal clientele while aiding in building your confidence to offer chemical texture services to all clients. Chemical services are among the most lucrative and repetitive services in the salon, and many retail products are specific to hair’s texture and condition. Without a thorough understanding of chemistry, cosmetologists could damage hair, cause hair loss, and harm their clients and themselves. 3

Introduction Permanent waving Relaxng Curl re-forming 4 INTRODUCTION Javier sanchez Mingorance/Photos.com INTRODUCTION Chemical texture services are hair services that cause a chemical change that alters the natural wave pattern of the hair. Permanent waving: Adding wave or curl to the hair. Relaxing: Removing curl or waves; leaving the hair smooth and straight. Curl re-forming (self curl permanents): Loosening overly curly hair; changing tightly curly or coiled hair into loose curls or waves. 4

LESSON ACTIVITY 1 Ask students to take a moment and analyze the texture of their hair. Ask them to check their hair in different areas to determine if the texture all around the head is the same, or if it varies. Ask them to share their findings with the class. Next, ask students if they have ever had or have considered having chemical texture services done—what was the service? Why did they opt for that service? How did it change the look of their hairstyle? Did they like it? Was is what they expected? Allow for some discussion among students. 5

How Chemical Services Affect the Structure of Hair Cuticle – tough outer layer of hair; surrounds the inner layers and protects hair from damage Courtesy of P&G Beauty from John Grey's, The World of Hair Care. Courtesy of P&G Beauty from John Grey's, The World of Hair Care. HOW CHEMICAL SERVICES AFFECT THE STRUCTURE OF HAIR All chemical texture procedures involve chemically and physically changing the structure of the hair, this chapter begins by reviewing the structure and purpose of each layer of the hair—characteristics of hair that were first discussed in Chapter 11, Properties of the Hair and Scalp. Cuticle Tough exterior layer of the hair. It surrounds the inner layers and protects the hair from damage. Although the cuticle is not directly involved in the texture or movement of the hair, texture chemicals must penetrate through the cuticle to their target in the cortex in order to be effective. (continues) 6

How Chemical Services Affect the Structure of Hair (continued) Cortex – middle layer of hair located beneath cuticle; responsible for hair strength and elasticity. Medulla – innermost layer of hair, often called pith or core; does not play a role in restructuring; missing in some types of hair. UNDERSTAND HOW CHEMICAL SERVICES AFFECT THE STRUCTURE OF HAIR (continued) Cortex Middle layer of the hair, located directly beneath the cuticle layer. The cortex is responsible for the incredible strength and elasticity of human hair. Breaking the side bonds of the cortex makes it possible to change the natural wave pattern of the hair. Medulla Innermost layer of the hair, often called the pith or core of the hair. The medulla does not play a role in chemical texture services and may be missing in fine hair. 7

pH in Texture Services pH means potential hydrogen. It represents the quantity of hydrogen ions and measures the acidity and alkalinity of a substance. pH scale has a range of 0 to 14; 7 is neutral. Below 7 is acid. Above 7 is alkaline. Hair is 4.5 to 5.5. IMPORTANCE OF pH IN TEXTURE SERVICES pH is an abbreviation for potential hydrogen. The symbol pH represents the quantity of hydrogen ions. The pH scale measures the acidity and alkalinity of a substance by measuring the quantity of hydrogen ions it contains. The pH scale has a range from 0 to 14. pH of 7 is neutral pH below 7 is acidic pH above 7 is alkaline. The natural pH of hair is between 4.5 and 5.5. Chemical solutions raise the pH of the hair to an alkaline state (figure 20–04). This action opens the cuticle layer of the hair and allows the solution to reach the cortex layer, where restructuring occurs. Coarse, resistant hair with a strong, compact cuticle layer requires a highly alkaline chemical solution. Porous, damaged, or chemically treated hair requires a less alkaline solution. 8

Building Blocks of Hair Amino acids – compounds made of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur Peptide (end) bonds – chemical bonds that join amino acids together end-to-end in long chains to form polypeptide chains BUILDING BLOCKS OF HAIR Amino acids: Compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen and sulfur. Peptide bonds: Also known as end bonds, are chemical bonds that join amino acids together, end-to-end in long chains, to form a polypeptide chain. (continues) 9

Building Blocks of Hair (continued) Polypeptide chains – formed by peptide bonds linked together Keratin proteins – make up about 97 percent of hair’s structure Side bonds – disulfide, salt, and hydrogen bonds that cross-link polypeptide chains together BUILDING BLOCKS OF HAIR (continued) Polypeptide chains: Long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds. Keratin proteins: Long, coiled polypeptide chains. Side bonds: Disulfide, salt, and hydrogen bonds cross-link polypeptide chains together. 10

Keratin Proteins Made up of long, coiled chains of amino acids linked together end-to-end like beads by end bonds KERATIN PROTEINS Keratin proteins are made of long chains of amino acids linked together end-to-end like beads. The amino acid chains are linked together by peptide bonds (end bonds). These chains of amino acids linked by peptide bonds are called polypeptides. Keratin proteins are made of long, coiled, polypeptide chains, which in turn are comprised of amino acids. 11

Side Bonds Disulfide bonds – formed when sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined; only broken by chemicals; account for about 1/3 of hair’s strength SIDE BONDS The cortex is made up of millions of polypeptide chains cross-linked by three types of side bonds. Disulfide bonds are strong chemical side bonds formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together. Although there are far fewer disulfide bonds than hydrogen or salt bonds, they are the strongest of the three side bonds, accounting for about one-third of the hair’s overall strength. (continues) 12

Side Bonds (continued) Salt – relatively weak physical side bonds resulting from an attraction between negative and positive electrical charges; can be broken by water; account for about 1/3 of hair’s strength Hydrogen bonds – weak physical side bonds resulting from an attraction between opposite electrical charges; easily broken by water; account for about 1/3 of hair’s strength SIDE BONDS (continued) Salt bonds: Are relatively weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between negative and positive electrical charges (ionic bonds); they are easily broken by changes in pH, and they re-form when the pH returns to normal levels. Salt bonds are broken by changes in pH levels. Even though salt bonds are far weaker than disulfide bonds, the hair has so many salt bonds that they account for about one-third of the hair’s total strength. Hydrogen bonds: Are weak physical side bonds that are also the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; they are easily broken by water (wet setting) or heat (thermal styling), and they re-form as the hair dries or cools. Although individual hydrogen bonds are very weak, there are so many of them that they, too, account for about one-third of the hair’s total strength. 13

Proper Technique for Permanent Waving Physical change – caused by wrapping the hair on tools Chemical change – caused by the processing of waving solution and neutralizer DEMONSTRATE THE PROPER TECHNIQUE FOR PERMANENT WAVING Permanent waving is a two-step process whereby the hair undergoes a physical change caused by wrapping the hair on perm rods; the hair then undergoes a chemical change caused by the application of permanent waving solution and neutralizer. When performing a permanent waving service, the size of the rod determines the size of the curl. The shape and type of curl are determined by the shape and type of rod and the wrapping method used. Selecting the correct perm rod and wrapping method is crucial to creating a successful permanent wave. Perm rods come in a wide variety of sizes and shapes that can be combined with different wrapping methods. 14

Chemistry of Permanent Waving Alkaline solutions soften and swell the hair and open the cuticle. Acid solutions result in far less swelling of the hair than alkaline solutions. CHEMISTRY OF PERMANENT WAVING Alkaline solutions soften and swell the hair and open the cuticle. See the figure illustrating hair saturated in an alkaline solution for five minutes showing the swelling of the cuticle layer. Conversely, see the second figure to see hair saturated in an acid-balanced solution for five minutes. Note there is far less swelling. 15

Reduction Reaction Once the waving solution is in the cortex, it breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called reduction. Reduction involves either the addition of hydrogen or the removal of oxygen. REDUCTION REACTION Once in the cortex, the waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called reduction. A reduction reaction involves either the addition of hydrogen or the removal of oxygen. The reduction reaction in permanent waving is due to the addition of hydrogen. (continues) 16

Reduction Reaction (continued) Thioglycolic acid – colorless liquid with a strong, unpleasant odor, is the most common reducing agent in permanent wave solutions. Ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) – the addition of ammonia to thioglycolic acid produces ATG, which is alkaline and is the active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents. REDUCTION REACTION (continued) Thioglycolic acid is a colorless liquid with a strong, unpleasant odor, is the most common reducing agent in permanent wave solutions. The strength of the permanent waving solution is determined primarily by the concentration of thio. Stronger perms have a higher concentration of thio, which means that more disulfide bonds are broken compared to weaker perms. The addition of ammonia to thioglycolic acid produces a new chemical named ammonium thioglycolate, which is alkaline and is the active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents. Degree of alkalinity Coarse hair with a strong, resistant cuticle layer needs the additional swelling and penetration that is provided by a stronger and more highly alkaline waving solution. By contrast, porous hair, or hair with a damaged cuticle layer, is easily penetrated and could be damaged by a highly alkaline permanent waving solution. The alkalinity of the perm solution should correspond to the resistance, strength, and porosity of the cuticle layer. 17

Types of Permanent Waves A variety of permanent waves are available in salons today. The chart depicts how perms can vary from being acid balanced to highly alkaline, depending on the type and formulation. (continues) 18

Types of Permanent Waves (continued) Alkaline waves or cold waves Acid waves True acid waves Exothermic waves and components TYPES OF PERMANENT WAVES (continued) Alkaline waves or cold waves: First developed in 1941 using ammonium thioglycolate (ATG), they became known as cold waves since they process at room temperature without adding heat; they usually have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6. Acid waves: Glyceryl monothioglycolate is the main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions. It has a low pH and is the primary reducing agent in most acid waves. True acid waves: Introduced in the early 1970s, they usually have a pH of 4.5 to 7.0 and require heat to speed processing. They have three separate components: waving solution, activator, and neutralizer. The activator tube contains GMTG. Acid waves process more slowly and do not produce as firm a curl as alkaline waves. Exothermic waves and components: These perms create an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the solution and speeds up the processing. All exothermic waves have three components: permanent waving solution, activator, and neutralizer. (continues) 19

Types of Permanent Waves (continued) Endothermic waves Ammonia-free waves Thio-free waves Low-pH waves TYPES OF PERMANENT WAVES (continued) Endothermic waves: These perms are activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood dryer; they will not process properly at room temperature. Ammonia-free waves: Perms that use an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so there is very little odor associated with their use. Aminomethylpropanol (AMP) and monoethanolamine (MEA) are examples of alkanol-amines that are used as substitutes for ammonia. Odor is reduced but damage can still occur. Thio-free waves: Use an ingredient other than ATG, such as cysteamine or mercaptamine, as the primary reducing agent. Even though these thio substitutes are not technically ATG, they are still thio compounds. Although thio-free wave products are often marketed as damage-free, this is not necessarily true. At a high concentration, the reducing agents in thio-free waves can be just as damaging as thio. Low-pH waves: Perms that use sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfites presents an alternative to ATG. Sulfites work at a low pH. Permanents based on sulfites are very weak and do not provide a firm curl, especially on strong or resistant hair. Sulfite permanents are usually marketed as body waves or alternative waves. 20

Selecting Perm Type 21 SELECTING PERM TYPE It is important to select the right type of perm for each client. Each client’s hair has a distinct texture and condition, so individual needs must always be addressed. After a thorough consultation, you should be able to determine which type of permanent is best suited to your client's hair type, hair condition, and desired results. The table shown here lists the most common types of permanent waves, along with selected advantages and disadvantages for each. These are only general guidelines. Just because a perm is indicated for use on color-treated hair does not mean it is safe for damaged or bleached hair. Also, hair that has been treated with a semipermanent color, which coats the hair, is more resistant than and not as porous as hair treated with permanent color. 21

LESSON ACTIVITY 2 Have students pair off. Ask them to analyze each other’s hair and to determine which type of perm solution to use on their “client” based on their analysis. Have them share their recommendations with the class and explain why their analysis led them to their product choice. 22

Permanent Wave Processing The amount of processing time should be determined by the strength of the solution, not necessarily how long the perm is processed. Most processing takes 5 to 10 minutes. Additional time allows polypeptide chains to shift to new configuration. PERMANENT WAVE PROCESSING The strength of any permanent wave is based on the concentration of its reducing agent. In turn, the amount of processing is determined by the strength of the permanent wave solution. The amount of processing should be determined by the strength of the solution, not necessarily the perm’s processing time. Most processing takes 5 to 10 minutes. Additional time allows polypeptide chains to shift to a new configuration. 23

Overprocessed Hair Does not mean overly curly. If too many disulfide bonds are broken, hair is too weak to hold a firm curl. Has weak curl or may be completely straight. Hair at scalp is stronger than ends. OVERPROCESSED HAIR Does not mean overly curly. If too many disulfide bonds are broken, hair will be too weak to hold a firm curl. May be completely straight. Hair at the scalp is usually stronger than at the ends so over processed hair is usually curlier at the scalp and straighter at the ends. 24

Underprocessed Hair If too few disulfide bonds are broken, hair will not be sufficiently softened and will not hold the desired curl Hair at scalp is not as curly as ends; more processing time is required. UNDERPROCESSED HAIR If too few disulfide bonds are broken, the hair will not be sufficiently softened and will not hold the desired curl. Hair at the scalp is usually not as curly as at the ends; more processing will make it curlier. 25

Perm Waving (Thio) Neutralization Thio neutralization stops the action of the waving solution and rebuilds the hair into its new curly form. It performs two functions: Deactivates waving solution Rebuilds broken disulfide bonds PERMANENT WAVING (THIO) NEUTRALIZATION The process of stopping the action of a solution and hardening the hair in its new form. Deactivates waving solution should any be left in the hair. Rebuilds the disulfide bonds into their new shape. Neutralizers are oxidizers; the most common neutralizer is hydrogen peroxide— concentrations vary between 5 volume (1.5%) and 10 volume (3%). 26

Neutralization: Stage One Rinse hair for five full minutes. Towel-blot thoroughly but gently. If directed, apply a preneutralizing conditioner to strengthen hair. NEUTRALIZATION: STAGE ONE The first function is deactivation of the waving solution that remains in the hair after rinsing. Rinse hair for 5 full minutes. Towel blot thoroughly. Blot each rod several times using dry towels. If directed, apply a pre-neutralizing conditioner. An acidic liquid protein conditioner can be applied to the hair and dried under a warm dryer for five minutes or more prior to neutralization; this is beneficial for damaged hair. Always follow the manufacturer’s directions. 27

Proper Rinsing and Blotting Rinse with warm water. Always use a gentle water stream. Avoid pressure on rods while rinsing. Rinse most fragile areas first. Thoroughly rinse nape area and rod bottoms. Rinse for recommended time. PROPER RINSING AND BLOTTING Rinse with warm water. Use a gentle stream. Avoid pressure on the rods. Rinse fragile areas first. Thoroughly rinse the nape area. Rinse for the recommended time. (continues) 28

Proper Rinsing and Blotting (continued) Smell hair; continue rinsing if needed. Gently blot hair with towel. Check for excess moisture, especially at nape. Adjust any loosened or drifted rods. PROPER RINSING AND BLOTTING (continued) Smell hair; continue rinsing if needed. Gently blot hair with a towel. Check for excess moisture. Look especially at the nape of the neck. Blot thoroughly prior to neutralizing. Adjust loose rods. 29

Neutralization: Stage Two Disulfide bonds are broken with hydrogen. Disfulfide bonds are rebuilt. Hydrogen bonds attract oxygen. Water molecule is formed. Water is removed. Side bonds are re-formed. NEUTRALIZATION: STAGE TWO Disulfide bonds are broken. Waving solution breaks disulfide bonds by adding hydrogen atoms to sulfur atoms in the disulfide bonds. Disulfide bonds are rebuilt. Thio neutralization rebuilds disulfide bonds by removing extra hydrogen atoms. Hydrogen bonds attract oxygen. Hydrogen atoms attract to oxygen in the neutralizer and release their bond with the sulfur atoms and join with the oxygen. A water molecule is formed. Each oxygen atom joins with two hydrogen atoms to rebuild one disulfide bond and make one molecule of water. Water is removed. Water is removed in the final rinse and the disulfide bonds from in their new curled position. Side bonds are reformed. Side bonds are reformed into their new shape as different pairs. Most processing takes 5 to 10 minutes. Additional time - Allows polypeptide chains to shift to a new configuration. 30

Preliminary Test Curls Correct processing time. Expected results from solution. Curl expected from rods and wrap. How much color will be removed from the process if the client has color-treated hair? Will the integrity of the hair be compromised? Did the hair break? Is it dry? Frizzy? Is the client satisfied with the shape and hold of the curl? PRELIMINARY TEST CURLS Used to determine how hair will react to a perm Correct processing time: Used to determine best processing time for best curl development Expected results from solution. Curl expected from rods and wrap. How much color will be removed from the process if the client has color-treated hair? Will the integrity of the hair be compromised? Did the hair break? Is it dry? frizzy? Is the client satisfied with the shape and hold of the curl? See Procedure 20–1, Preliminary Test Curl For a Permanent Wave, found on page 629 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. 31

LESSON ACTIVITY 3 Have students complete a test curl, following the exact steps you just showed them, on their mannequin. 32

Types of Rods Concave rods – smaller circumference in middle than on ends Straight rods – consistent diameter TYPES OF RODS Concave rods: Most common; they have a smaller circumference in the center and larger circumference on the ends. They produce a tighter curl in the center and a looser, larger curl on either side of the strand. Straight rods: Equal in diameter along the entire length of the rod or curling area; they produce a uniform curl along the entire width of the strand. Concave and straight rods come in a variety of lengths to accommodate different sections of the head. (continues) 33

Types of Rods (continued) Soft bender rods – about 12 inches long with equal diameter; they are made of soft foam and take a variety of shapes. Loop or circle rods – fasten together to form a circle. TYPES OF RODS (continued) Soft bender rods These are usually about 12 inches (30.5 cm) long with a uniform diameter along the entire length. They are soft foam rods with a stiff inner wire that allows them to take on a variety of shapes. Loop rods Also known as circle rod, these are usually about 12 inches (30.5 cm) long with a uniform diameter; they are ideal for wrapping extremely long hair. When fastened together, they form a circle. 34

End Papers Double flat wrap Single flat wrap Bookend wrap 35 Also known as end wraps, end papers are absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping. When wrapping, papers should extend beyond the ends of the hair to keep them smooth and straight and to prevent fishhooks (hair that is bent up at the ends). Double flat wrap: Uses two end papers, one placed under and one over the hair strand; both papers extend past the hair ends. Single flat wrap: Uses one end paper placed over top of the strand of hair being wrapped. Bookend wrap: Uses one end paper folded in half over hair ends like an envelope. Pre-folded wraps or large end papers which can be folded are available; this eliminates excess paper and they can be used with short rods or with very short lengths of hair. 35

Sectioning for a Perm Panels – size, shape, and direction of panels vary based on type of wrapping pattern and type and size of tool. Base sections – subsections of a panel based on size of tool. SECTIONING FOR A PERM Panels: The size, shape, and direction of panels varies based on type of wrapping pattern and type and size of tool being used. Base sections: Panels are divided into subsections called base sections. One tool is placed on each base section; the size of the base section is usually the length and width of the tool being used. 36

Base Placement On-base placement Half-off base placement Refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section; determined by the angle at which hair is wrapped On-base placement: Hair is wrapped at an angle of 45 degrees beyond perpendicular to its base section; the tool is positioned on its base section. Half-off base placement: Hair is wrapped at a 90-degree angle (perpendicular) to its base section; the tool is positioned half off its base section. This positioning minimizes stress and tension on hair. Off-base placement: Hair is wrapped at an angle of 45 degrees below perpendicular to its base section; the tool is positioned completely off its base section. This creates the least amount of volume, and the curl pattern begins away from scalp. 37

Base Direction The angle at which the tool is positioned and the directional wrap pattern BASE DIRECTION Base direction refers to the angle at which the tool is positioned on the head: horizontally, vertically, or diagonally. It also refers to the directional pattern in which hair is wrapped: backward, forward, to one side, and so on. Wrapping against the natural growth pattern causes excess stress that may damage or break hair. 38

Wrapping Techniques Croquignole – hair wrapped from ends to scalp in overlapping concentric layers WRAPPING TECHNIQUES Croquignole: Hair strands are wrapped from the ends to the scalp, in overlapping concentric layers. The curl is tighter on ends and gets larger nearer the scalp. (continues) 39

Wrapping Techniques (continued) Spiral – hair wrapped at an angle to form a coil (like the grip of a tennis racket) WRAPPING TECHNIQUES (continued) Spiral The hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod (figure 20–35), which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod, like the stripes on a candy cane. A spiral perm wrap may partially overlap the preceding layers. As long as the angle remains constant, any overlap will be uniform along the length of the rod and the strand of hair (figure 20–36). This wrapping technique causes the size (diameter) of the curl to remain constant along the entire length of the strand and produces a uniform curl from the scalp to the ends. See Procedure 20–7, Permanent Wave And Processing Using a Spiral Wrap Technique, found on page 644 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. 40

Wrapping Patterns Double-rod wrap Basic permanent wrap (continues) 41 Wrapping patterns and different types of rods are combined to create a wide variety of specialized perm wraps, thus providing an unlimited array of styling options. Double-rod wrap: Also known as piggyback wrap, used for extra-long hair. The hair is wrapped on one rod from the scalp to midway down the hair shaft, and another rod is used to wrap the remaining hair strand in the same direction. This allows for better penetration of the processing solution and for a tighter curl near the scalp than that provided by a conventional croquignole wrap. See Procedure 20–6, Permanent Wave And Processing Using the Double-Rod Wrap or Piggyback Technique, found on page 642 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. Basic permanent wrap: Also known as straight set wrap, is a wrapping pattern in which all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal-sized bases; all the base sections are horizontal and are the same length and width as the perm rod. See Procedure 20–2, Permanent Wave and Processing Using a Basic Permanent Wrap, found on page 631 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. (continues) 41

Wrapping Patterns (continued) Base control Curvature permanent wrap WRAPPING PATTERNS (continued) Base control The position of the tool in relation to its base section, determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped. Curvature permanent wrap Partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head. This wrapping pattern uses pie-shaped base sections in the curvature areas. See Procedure 20–3, Permanent Wave and Processing Using a Curvature Permanent Wrap, found on page 635 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. (continues) 42

Wrapping Patterns (continued) Bricklay permanent wrap Weave technique WRAPPING PATTERNS (continued) Bricklay permanent wrap: Similar to the actual technique of bricklaying; base sections are offset from each other row by row to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of the hair. It can be used with a variety of sectioning, base control, base direction, wrapping techniques, and perm rods. See Procedure 20–4, Permanent Wave and Processing Using a Bricklay Permanent Wrap, found on page 638 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. Weave technique: Uses zigzag partings to divide base areas. It can be used throughout the entire perm wrap or only in selected areas. This technique is very effective for blending between perm rods with opposite base directions. It can also be used to create a smooth transition from the rolled areas into the unrolled areas of a partial perm. The weave technique can be used with a variety of base directions, wrapping patterns, and perm rods. See Procedure 20–5, Permanent Wave and Processing Using a Weave Technique, found on page 640 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. See Procedure 20–6, Permanent WaveaProcessing Using a Weave Double-Rod Wrap or Piggyback Technique, found on page 642 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. 43

LESSON ACTIVITY 4 Have students pair off and practice perm wave sectioning and wrapping one of each of the wraps described in this chapter. 44

Partial Perms Used when the entire head is not permed Hair long on top, but short and close on sides Some hair too short to wrap on rods Sleek crown and curly perimeter desired Volume desired in certain areas only Transition techniques used PARTIAL PERMS If your client wants a perm but does not wish the entire head of hair to be curled, a partial perm may be the answer. Partial perms also allow you to give a perm when some of the hair is too short to roll on rods. Can be used for: Male and female clients who have long hair on the top and crown but very short hair with tapered sides and nape. Clients who only need volume and lift in certain areas. Clients who desire a hairstyle with curls along the perimeter but a smooth, sleek crown. Additional considerations: Partial perms rely on the same techniques and wrapping patterns as those used with other perms, but there are additional considerations. Smooth transition between sections In order to make a smooth transition from the rolled section to the unrolled section, use a larger rod for the last rod next to an unrolled section. Protect unrolled hair Applying waving solution to unrolled hair may straighten it or make it difficult to style. To protect the unrolled hair, apply a protective barrier cream to the unrolled section before applying the waving lotion. 45

Perms for Men Many men are looking for added texture, fullness, style, and low maintenance that only a perm can provide. Perms look fuller, make straight or coarse hair more manageable, and help control stubborn cowlicks. Techniques are the same for men and women. PERMS FOR MEN Many male clients are looking for the added texture, fullness, style, and low maintenance that only a perm can provide (figure 20–44). Perms help thin hair look fuller, make straight or coarse hair more manageable, and help control stubborn cowlicks. Although men’s and women’s hairstyles may be different, the techniques for permanent waving are essentially the same. 46

Perm Safety Precautions Protect client clothing. Determine allergic reaction. Hair and scalp analysis. Determine extent of damage. Determine prior hydroxide relaxers. Perform metallic salt test. Apply protective barrier cream. PERM SAFETY PRECAUTIONS Always protect your client’s clothing. Have the client change into a gown, or use a waterproof shampoo cape, and double drape with towels to absorb accidental spills. Beware of previous allergies. Do not give a permanent to any client who has experienced an allergic reaction to a previous permanent. Complete a hair and scalp analysis. Always examine the scalp before the perm service. Do not proceed if there are any skin abrasions or signs of scalp disease. Check for damage. Do not perm hair that is excessively damaged or shows signs of breakage. Do not perm relaxed hair. Do not attempt to perm hair that has been previously treated with hydroxide relaxers. Check for metallic salts. If there is a possibility that metallic haircolor has been previously used on the hair, perform a test for metallic salts. Use protective cream. Always apply protective barrier cream around the client’s hairline 
and ears prior to applying permanent waving solution. (continues) 47

Perm Safety Precautions (continued) Use as directed. Keep solution away from eyes and skin. Always follow manufacturer’s directions. Wear gloves when applying solutions. Replace wet cotton or towels. Discard unused products. Shampoo and condition with products for chemically treated hair. PERM SAFETY PRECAUTIONS (continued) Use as directed. Do not dilute or add anything to the waving lotion or neutralizer unless specified in the manufacturer’s directions. Keep waving lotion out of the client’s eyes. In case of accidental exposure, rinse thoroughly with cool water. Always follow the manufacturer’s directions. Wear gloves when applying solutions. Immediately replace cotton or towels that have become wet with solution. Do not save any opened, unused waving solution or neutralizer. When not used promptly, these chemicals may change in strength and effectiveness. Hair that has been permanently waved should be shampooed and conditioned with products formulated for chemically treated hair. 48

Metallic Salts Not compatible with permanent waving. Leave a coating on the hair that may cause uneven curls, severe discoloration, or hair breakage. Metallic salts are more commonly found in men’s haircolors that are sold for home use. METALLIC SALTS Some home haircoloring products contain metallic salts that are not compatible with permanent waving. Metallic salts leave a coating on the hair that may cause uneven curls, severe discoloration, or hair breakage. Metallic salts are more commonly found in men’s haircolors that are sold for home use. Test for Metallic Salts In a glass or plastic bowl, mix 1 ounce of 20-volume peroxide with 20 drops of 28-percent ammonia. Immerse at least 20 strands of hair in the solution for 30 minutes. If metallic salts are not present, the hair will lighten slightly and you may proceed with the service. If metallic salts are present, the hair will lighten rapidly. The solution may get hot and give off an unpleasant odor, indicating that you should not proceed with the service. 49

Chemical Hair Relaxers Chemical hair relaxing is the process of rearranging the basic structure of extremely curly hair into a straighter or smoother form. DEMONSTRATE THE PROPER TECHNIQUE FOR UNDERSTANDING CHEMICAL HAIR RELAXERS Chemical hair relaxing is a process that rearranges the structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form. Whereas permanent waving curls straight hair, chemical hair relaxing straightens curly hair. Other than their objectives being quite different, the permanent wave and relaxer services are very similar. In fact, the chemistry of relaxers and permanent waving is exactly the same. both services change the shape of the hair by breaking disulfide bonds. Photography by Tom Carson. 50

Types of Chemical Hair Relaxers Ammonium thio Guanidine hydroxide Sodium hydroxide TYPES OF CHEMICAL HAIR RELAXERS The most common types of chemical hair relaxers are: Ammonium thio Guanidine hydroxide Sodium hydroxide It should be noted that thio and guanidine are usually classified as no-lye relaxers and sodium hydroxide is considered to be a lye-based relaxer. 51

Curly Hair Extremely curly hair grows in long, twisted spirals or coils. Cross-sections are highly elliptical; they vary in shape and thickness along their lengths. The thinnest and weakest sections are located at the twists. CURLY HAIR  There are varying degrees and types of curly hair. Extremely curly hair grows in long, twisted spirals or coils. Cross-sections are highly elliptical and vary in shape and thickness along their lengths. Compared to straight or wavy hair, which tends to possess a fairly regular and uniform diameter along a single strand, extremely curly hair is irregular, exhibiting varying diameters along a single strand. The thinnest and weakest sections of the hair strands are located at the twists. These sections are also bent at an extremely sharp angle and will be stretched the most during relaxing. Hair breaks at its weakest point. Extremely curly hair usually breaks at the twists because of the inherent weakness in that section and because of the extra physical force that is required to straighten it.   52

Thio Relaxers Main ingredient: ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) Usually have a pH above 10 Usually have a higher concentration of ATG Have a thicker viscosity Break disulfide bonds and soften hair THIO RELAXERS Use the same ATG that is used in permanent waving but at a higher concentration and a higher pH. Usually have a pH above 10. Usually have a higher concentration of ammonium thioglycolate than used in permanent waving. Thicker, with a higher viscosity. Viscosity measures the thickness of a product and affects how the fluid flows. This is more suitable for application as a relaxer. Break disulfide bonds and soften hair. After enough bonds are broken, hair is straightened into new shape and the relaxer is rinsed from hair. 53

Thio Neutralization The neutralization used with thio relaxers is an oxidizing agent, usually hydrogen peroxide. The oxidation reaction caused by the neutralizer rebuilds the disulfide bonds that were broken by the thio relaxer. THIO NEUTRALIZATION The neutralizer used with thio relaxers is an oxidizing agent, usually hydrogen peroxide, just as in permanents. The oxidation reaction caused by the neutralizer rebuilds the disulfide bonds that were broken by the thio relaxer. 54

Thio Relaxer Application Follow the same preparation steps as virgin hydroxide relaxers with the possible exception of a light shampoo before a thio relaxer. Do not forget to perform an analysis of the client’s hair and scalp. Test the hair for elasticity and porosity on several areas of the head. If the hair has poor elasticity, do not perform a relaxer service. THIO RELAXER APPLICATION The application steps for thio relaxers are the same as those for hydroxide relaxers, although the neutralization procedure is different. Relaxer may be applied with bowl and brush or the back of a hard rubber comb. Although all thio relaxers follow the same procedures, different application methods are used for virgin relaxers and retouch relaxers. Follow the same preparation steps as virgin hydroxide relaxers with the possible exception of a light shampoo before a thio relaxer. Do not forget to perform an analysis of the client’s hair and scalp. Test the hair for elasticity and porosity on several areas of the head. If the hair has poor elasticity, do not perform a relaxer service. See Procedure 20–8, Applying Thio Relaxcer to Virgin Hair, found on page 647 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. See Procedure 20–9, Thio Relaxer Retouch, found on page 650 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. 55

Japanese Thermal Straighteners Hair is shampooed and conditioned. Straightener is distributed evenly. Hair is processed to desired curl reduction. Hair is thoroughly rinsed (10 minutes). Hair is conditioned and blown dry. Sections are flat ironed. Hair is neutralized and blown dry. JAPANESE THERMAL STRAIGHTENERS Japanese thermal straightening, sometimes called thermal reconditioning or TR, combines the use of a thio relaxer with flat ironing. When first introduced, the straighteners were called thermal ionic reconstructors. Each manufacturer has slightly different procedures. Generally, after the hair is shampooed and conditioned, the straightener is applied to sections, distributed evenly and processed until the desired degree of curl or frizz reduction is reached. Then, the hair is rinsed thoroughly, for about 10 minutes, conditioned, and blown completely dry. Next, each section is flat ironed; several passes of the flat iron are required for each section. (The added heat and mechanical pressing help make these formulas more effective than standard thio relaxers.) The hair is then neutralized and blown dry. The service can take several hours and is not always appropriate for extremely curly hair or some color-treated hair. Thermal reconditioning is considered a specialty, and many manufacturers require certification in their particular procedure. 56

Hydroxide Relaxers Examples: Not compatible with thio relaxers Sodium hydroxide Potassium hydroxide Lithium hydroxide Guanidine hydroxide Not compatible with thio relaxers Have a pH of 13.0 or more Lanthionization HYDROXIDE RELAXERS The hydroxide ion is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers, which are very strong alkalis with a pH over 13.0 Sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and guanidine hydroxide are all types of hydroxide relaxers, which can swell the hair up to twice its normal diameter. Hydroxide relaxers are not compatible with thio relaxers, permanent waving, or soft-curl perms because they use a different chemistry. The high pH of a thio relaxer is needed to swell the hair, but it is the thio that breaks the disulfide bonds. Hydroxide relaxers have a pH so high that the alkalinity alone breaks the disulfide bonds. The average pH of the hair is 5.0, and many hydroxide relaxers have a pH over 13.0. Since each step in the pH scale represents a tenfold change in concentration, a pH of 13.0 is 100 million times more alkaline than a pH of 5.0. Hydroxide relaxers break disulfide bonds differently than in the reduction reaction of thio relaxers. In lanthionization, the relaxers remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond and convert it into a lanthionine bond. A disulfide bond consists of two bonded sulfur atoms. Lanthionine bonds contain only one sulfur atom. The disulfide bonds that are broken by hydroxide relaxers are broken permanently and can never be re-formed. That is why hair that has been treated with a hydroxide relaxer is unfit for permanent waving and will not hold curl. 57

Types of Hydroxide Relaxers Metal hydroxide relaxers – ionic compounds formed by a metal such as sodium (Na), potassium (K), or lithium (Li) that is combined with oxygen (O) and hydrogen (H). Metal hydroxide relaxers include sodium hydroxide (NaOH), potassium hydroxide (KOH), and lithium hydroxide (LiOH). The active ingredient is the hydroxide ion. TYPES OF HYDROXIDE RELAXERS Metal hydroxide relaxers Are ionic compounds formed by a metal—sodium (Na), potassium (K), or lithium (Li)—which is combined with oxygen (O) and hydrogen (H). Metal hydroxide relaxers include sodium hydroxide (NaOH), potassium hydroxide (KOH), and lithium hydroxide (LiOH).   The hydroxide ion is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers. (continues) 58

Types of Hydroxide Relaxers (continued) Lye-based relaxers – sodium hydroxide relaxers, also known as caustic soda Oldest and most common type of relaxers Same chemical used in drain cleaners and chemical hair depilatories TYPES OF HYDROXIDE RELAXERS (continued) Lye-based relaxers Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) relaxers are commonly called lye relaxers. Sodium hydroxide is the oldest, and one of the most common, types of chemical hair relaxer. Sodium hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda and can cause hair loss and skin burns if used incorrectly. (continues) 59

Types of Hydroxide Relaxers (continued) No-lye relaxers – lithium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide often sold as no-mix, no lye relaxers Even though not lye, chemistry identical and little difference in their performances TYPES OF HYDROXIDE RELAXERS (continued) No-lye relaxers Lithium hydroxide (LiOH) and potassium hydroxide (KOH) relaxers are often advertised and sold as “no mix—no lye” relaxers. Although technically they are not lye, their chemistry is identical, and there is very little difference in their performance. (continues) 60

Types of Hydroxide Relaxers (continued) Guanidine hydroxide relaxers – also sold as no-lye relaxers. Hydroxide ion is active ingredient. Require two components to be mixed. Straighten hair completely. Less scalp irritation; use for sensitive scalp. Do not reduce hair damage. More drying to hair. TYPES OF HYDROXIDE RELAXERS (continued) Guanidine hydroxide relaxers Also advertised and sold as no-lye relaxers. Hydroxide ion is still active ingredient.  Require two components which must be mixed.  Straighten hair completely.  Less scalp irritation than other Hydroxide relaxers.  Recommended for sensitive scalps. Sold over-the-counter. Do not reduce hair damage. They swell hair slightly more than other hydroxide relaxers and are also more drying to the hair. (continues) 61

Types of Hydroxide Relaxers (continued) Low pH relaxers – ammonium sulfite and ammonium bisulfite most commonly used. Compatible with thio; not compatible with hydroxide. Do not completely straighten extremely curly hair. Can be used on color-treated, damaged, or fine hair. TYPES OF HYDROXIDE RELAXERS (continued) Low-pH relaxers Sulfites and bisulfites; they are marketed as mild alternative relaxers. They are compatible with thio relaxers but not compatible with hydroxide relaxers. They do not completely straighten extremely curly hair. Low pH relaxers are intended for use on color-treated hair. 62

Base and No-Base Relaxers Base – require application of base cream to protect skin and scalp during relaxing. No-base – do not require protective base cream since they already contain a base cream that melts at body temperature; protective cream may be applied around ears and hairline. BASE AND NO-BASE RELAXERS Hydroxide relaxers are usually sold in base and no-base formulas. Base cream Also known as protective base cream, is an oily cream used to protect the skin and scalp during hair relaxing. Base relaxers require the application of a protective base cream to the entire scalp prior to the application of the relaxer. No-base relaxers Do not require the application of a protective base cream. They contain a protective base cream that is designed to melt at body temperature. As the relaxer is applied, body heat causes the protective base cream to melt and settle out onto the scalp in a thin, oily, protective coating. No-base relaxers are an improvement only on the protection that is provided to the skin by the oils in all hydroxide relaxers. For added protection, protective base cream should always be applied to the entire scalp, hairline, and around the ears, even with no-base relaxers. 63

Selecting the Correct Relaxer 64

Relaxer Strengths Mild – formulated for fine, color-treated, or damaged hair Regular – intended for normal hair texture with medium natural curl Super – used for maximum strengthening on extremely curly, coarse hair RELAXER STRENGTHS Caution! Extreme damage can occur if thio or hydroxide relaxers are applied to hair that has been colored with products containing metallic salts. 65

LESSON ACTIVITY 5 Have students analyze a partner’s hair and determine what type of relaxer should be used to completely remove all of the curl from their client’s hair. Also, ask them to determine the strength of the solution they should use. 66

Periodic Strand Testing Processing time varies Stretch the strand to determine if curls are removed or you may smooth and press the strand to the scalp If the strand remains smooth, it is sufficiently relaxed. If the curl returns, continue processing. PERIODIC STRAND TESTING (DURING THE ACTUAL RELAXER APPLICATION) Processing time varies according to strength of the relaxer and hair type and condition. You may stretch the strand to determine if curls are removed or you may smooth and press the strand to the scalp (with the back of a comb, brush, or finger). If the strand remains smooth, it is sufficiently relaxed. If the curl returns, continue processing. 67

Hydroxide Neutralization Process does not involve oxidation or rebuilding disulfide bonds. Hair remains at a high pH. Acid-balanced shampoo or normalizing lotion is used. HYDROXIDE NEUTRALIZATION An acid–alkali neutralization that neutralizes (deactivates) the alkaline residues left in the hair by a hydroxide relaxer and lowers the pH of the hair and scalp; hydroxide relaxer neutralization does not involve oxidation or rebuilding disulfide bonds. Hair remains at high pH. Acid-balanced shampoo used. Rinsing alone will not neutralize the relaxer. An acid-balanced shampoo or normalizing lotion neutralizes the remaining hydroxide ions. 68

Hydroxide Relaxer Virgin application Retouch application Texturizing service Using base cream, protective cream, and normalizing products Neutralizing shampoo HYDROXIDE RELAXER Although the same procedure is used for all hydroxide relaxers, application methods vary according virgin and retouch application. Virgin relaxer application: A virgin relaxer application should be used for hair that has not had previous chemical relaxer service. See Procedure 20–10, Applying Hydroxide Relaxer to Virgin Hair, found on page 653 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. A retouch relaxer application: A retouch relaxer application should be used for hair that has previously received a chemical relaxer service. See Procedure 20–11, Hydroxide Relaxer Retouch, found on page 656 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. Texturizing service: A texturizing service uses a hydroxide relaxer to reduce the curl pattern by degrees using a mild strength relaxer. Using base cream, protective cream, and normalizing products: Most relaxers today recommend the application of a base cream to protect the entire scalp, irrespective of a virgin application or retouch. Neutralizing shampoo: An acidic shampoo designed to restore the natural pH of hair and scalp. 69

Relaxer Safety Precautions Do thorough hair analysis and consultation. Examine the scalp for abrasions. Keep accurate and detailed client records. Have client sign a release statement. Do not apply hydroxide over thio. Do not apply thio over hydroxide. Do not relax hair treated with metallic dye. Do not relax overly damaged hair. RELAXER AND SAFETY PRECAUTIONS Perform a thorough hair analysis and client consultation prior to the service. Examine the scalp for abrasions. Do not proceed with the service if redness, swelling, or skin lesions are present. Keep accurate and detailed client records of the services performed and the results achieved. Have the client sign a release statement indicating that he or she understands the possible risks related to the service. Do not apply a hydroxide relaxer on hair that has been previously treated with a thio relaxer. Do not apply a thio relaxer or soft curl perm on hair that has been previously treated with a hydroxide relaxer. Do not chemically relax hair that has been treated with a metallic dye. Do not relax overly damaged hair. Suggest instead a series of reconstruction treatments. (continues) 70

Relaxer Safety Precautions (continued) Do not shampoo prior to hydroxide relaxer. Make sure hair and scalp are dry. Apply protective base cream. Wear gloves. Protect client’s eyes. Flush eyes if solution touches. Do not allow product to touch ears, scalp, or skin. RELAXER SAFETY PRECAUTIONS (continued) Do not shampoo the client prior to the application of a hydroxide relaxer. The client’s hair and scalp must be completely dry and free from perspiration prior to the application of a hydroxide relaxer. Apply a protective base cream to avoid scalp irritation. Wear gloves during the relaxer application. Protect the client’s eyes. If any solution accidentally gets into the client’s eye, flush the eye immediately with cool water and refer the client to a doctor. Do not allow chemical relaxers to come into contact with the client's ears, scalp, or skin. (continues) 71

Relaxer Safety Precautions (continued) Perform periodic strand tests. Avoid scratching scalp. Do not overlap relaxer on hair strand. Adjust strength for fine/damaged hair. Do not remove more than 80 percent of curl. Thoroughly rinse relaxer from hair. Use normalizing lotion. RELAXER SAFETY PRECAUTIONS (continued) Perform periodic strand tests to see how fast the natural curls are being removed. Avoid scratching the scalp with your comb or fingernails. Do not allow the application of a relaxer retouch to overlap onto previously relaxed hair. Never use a strong relaxer on fine or damaged hair. It may cause breakage. Do not attempt to remove more than 80 percent of the natural curl. Thoroughly rinse the chemical relaxer from the hair. Failure to rinse properly can cause excessive skin irritation and hair breakage. Use a normalizing lotion to restore the hair and scalp to their normal acidic pH. (continues) 72

Relaxer Safety Precautions (continued) Use neutralizing shampoo with color indicator to confirm restored pH. Use conditioner and wide-tooth comb to eliminate excessive stretching when combing tangles. Do not use hot irons or excessive heat on chemically relaxed hair. RELAXER SAFETY PRECAUTIONS (continued) Use a neutralizing shampoo with a color indicator to guarantee that the hair and scalp have been restored to their normal pH. Use a conditioner and wide-tooth comb to eliminate excessive stretching when combing out tangles. Do not use hot irons or excessive heat on chemically relaxed hair. 73

Keratin Straightening Treatments Contain silicone polymers and formalin, which release formaldehyde gas when heated to high temperatures. Do not break bonds; treatment applied, hair blown dry, and flat iron set at 450°F is used on narrow sections to polymerize a coating on the hair. Eliminate up to 95 percent of frizz and curl. Last three to five months. KERATIN STRAIGHTENING TREATMENTS Keratin-based straightening treatments (also called Brazilian keratin treatments) contain silicone polymers and formalin or similar ingredients, which release formaldehyde gas when heated to high temperatures. Keratin straightening treatments work by fixing the keratin in place in a semi-permanent manner; they do not break bonds. Once the treatment is applied, the hair is blown dry, and a flat iron set at 450 degrees Fahrenheit is used on narrow sections, one by one, to polymerize a coating on the hair. Each section is flat ironed several times, and the procedure takes about two hours or more for longer or very dense hair. 74

Steps to Keratin Straightening Perform consultation Pre-conditioning – equalize porosity STEPS TO KERATIN STRAIGHTENING It is essential to conduct a detailed consultation before performing a keratin straightening service, so the client will understand what to expect from the service based upon condition of hair, chemical history, and degree of curl. Discuss the following: The client’s recent hair history, including all chemical treatments that may still be on the hair and the products used. Home-care maintenance during the three-day (72-hour) period after the service is performed, Usually the hair may not be shampooed for three days (72 hours) after the service. With most systems, the client should avoid getting any moisture into hair for 72 hours. If the hair gets damp, blow dry immediately and go over lightly with a flat iron on low-heat setting. The client should wear his or her hair down, and should not use pins, clips, ponytail holders, or sunglasses to hold the hair back. The hair must remain in a straight position for 72 hours to maintain its new straightness. Pre-conditioning is meant to equalize the porosity of the hair, taking it to a healthier level. For hair that is extremely over processed, damaged, or very curly, shampoo and deep condition prior to beginning the service. (continues) 75

Steps to Keratin Straightening (continued) Permanent color/highlights – use mild to regular shampoo. Toners or demigloss – perform three to five days after keratin treatment. STEPS TO KERATIN STRAIGHTENING (continued) Clients may have a permanent haircolor or highlighting service before the keratin straightening treatments is applied. For those clients, be sure to use a regular/mild shampoo during the haircolor service. Follow the manufacturer’s directions regarding the use of a clarifying shampoo before the treatment product is applied. Do not use a clarifying product on a client that has 70 percent or more highlights. If the client wishes to have a demi-gloss treatment, it should be done at least three to five days after the keratin treatment to prevent color loss and to avoid wetting the newly straightened hair. However, since keratin straightening treatments do coat the hair, a strand test may show that the product you’ve chosen will not cover the existing cuticle coating to the desired degree. 76

Curl Re-Forming A thio-based chemical service that reformats curly and wavy hair into looser and larger curls and waves. Reformation occurs by wrapping the hair on rods. Soft curl permanents use ATG (ammonium thioglycolate) and oxidation neutralizers just as thio permanent waves do. DEMONSTRATE THE PROPER TECHNIQUE FOR UNDERSTANDING CURL RE-FORMING (SOFT CURL PERMANENTS) Curl re-forming does not straighten the hair; it simply makes the existing curl larger and looser A thio-based chemical service that reformats curly and wavy hair into looser and larger curls and waves. Reformation occurs by wrapping the hair on rods. A soft curl permanent is akin to permanent waving. Often, this type of chemical service t is referred to as “a curl” or “curly perm.” Soft curl permanents use ATG (ammonium thioglycolate) and oxidation neutralizers just as thio permanent waves do. See Procedure 20–12, Curl Re-forming (Soft Curl Perm), found on page 659 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. 77

Safety Precautions for Hair Relaxing and Curl Re-Forming Perform a thorough hair analysis and client consultation prior to the service. Examine the scalp for abrasions. Keep accurate and detailed client records of the services performed and the results achieved. Have the client sign a release statement indicating that he or she understands the possible risks related to the service. Do not apply a hydroxide relaxer on hair that has been previously treated with a thio relaxer. SAFETY PRECAUTIONS FOR HAIR RELAXING AND CURL RE-FORMING Perform a thorough hair analysis and client consultation prior to the service. Examine the scalp for abrasions. Keep accurate and detailed client records of the services performed and the results achieved. Have the client sign a release statement indicating that he or she understands the possible risks related to the service. Do not apply a hydroxide relaxer on hair that has been previously treated with a thio relaxer (continues) 78

Safety Precautions (continued) Do not apply a thio relaxer or soft curl perm on hair that has been previously treated with a hydroxide relaxer. Do not chemically relax hair that has been treated with a metallic dye. Do not relax overly damaged hair. Do not shampoo the client prior to the application of a hydroxide relaxer. The client’s hair and scalp must be completely dry and free from perspiration prior to the application of a hydroxide relaxer. SAFETY PRECAUTIONS (continued) Do not apply a thio relaxer or soft curl perm on hair that has been previously treated with a hydroxide relaxer. Do not chemically relax hair that has been treated with a metallic dye. Do not relax overly damaged hair. Do not shampoo the client prior to the application of a hydroxide relaxer. The client’s hair and scalp must be completely dry and free from perspiration prior to the application of a hydroxide relaxer. (continues) 79

Safety Precautions (continued) Apply a protective base cream to avoid scalp irritation. Wear gloves during the relaxer application. If any solution accidentally gets into the client’s eye, flush the eye immediately with cool water, and refer the client to a doctor. Do not allow chemical relaxers to accidentally come into contact with the client’s ears, scalp, or skin. Perform periodic strand tests during the service to monitor the pace of curl removal. SAFETY PRECAUTIONS (continued) Apply a protective base cream to avoid scalp irritation. Wear gloves during the relaxer application. If any solution accidentally gets into the client’s eye, flush the eye immediately with cool water, and refer the client to a doctor. Do not allow chemical relaxers to accidentally come into contact with the client’s ears, scalp, or skin. Perform periodic strand tests during the service to monitor the pace of curl removal. (continues) 80

Safety Precautions (continued) Avoid scratching the scalp with your comb or fingernails. When performing a hair relaxer service, be sure not to overlap onto previously relaxed hair. Apply to new growth only. Thoroughly rinse the chemical relaxer from the hair. Follow manufacturer’s instructions closely when applying a chemical relaxer. Use a neutralizing shampoo to guarantee that the hair and scalp have been restored to their normal pH. SAFETY PRECAUTIONS (continued) Avoid scratching the scalp with your comb or fingernails. When performing a hair relaxer service, be sure not to overlap onto previously relaxed hair. Apply to new growth only. Thoroughly rinse the chemical relaxer from the hair. Follow manufacturer’s instructions closely when applying a chemical relaxer. Use a neutralizing shampoo to guarantee that the hair and scalp have been restored to their normal pH. 81

Summary and Review Products which are used to relax overly curly hair are formulated with sodium hydroxide, ammonium thioglycolate (thio), or acid-based relaxers. Thorough hair and scalp examination and evaluation is critical prior to giving any type of chemical service, including chemical relaxers. You must place the client’s safety first and foremost. In addition, thorough analysis will aid you in determining which type of product and what strength of product to use on the client’s hair. Chemical relaxing can be done routinely and safely as long as the stylist is careful to follow prescribed procedures and the manufacturer’s directions and performs frequent test curls during the service to prevent overprocessing. SUMMARY AND REVIEW • One of the best ways for you to obtain control of the texture of your client’s overly curly hair is through the use of chemical relaxers. Products which are used to relax overly curly hair are formulated with sodium hydroxide, ammonium thioglycolate (thio), or acid-based relaxers. • Thorough hair and scalp examination and evaluation is critical prior to giving any type of chemical service, including chemical relaxers. You must place the client’s safety first and foremost. In addition, thorough analysis will aid you in determining which type of product and what strength of product to use on the client’s hair. • Chemical relaxing can be done routinely and safely as long as the stylist is careful to follow prescribed procedures and the manufacturer’s directions and performs frequent test curls during the service to prevent overprocessing. 82

Chapter Review Questions What are the four chemical reactions that take place during permanent waving? What is the difference between an alkaline wave and a true acid wave? CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS 1. What are the four chemical reactions that take place during permanent waving? Answer: The four chemical reactions that take place are as follows: (1) A disulfide bond joins the sulfur atoms in two adjacent polypeptide chains. (2) Permanent wave solution breaks a disulfide bond by adding a hydrogen atom to each of its sulfur atoms. (3) The sulfur atoms attach to the hydrogen from the permanent waving solution, breaking their attachment to each other. (4) Once the disulfide bond is broken, the polypeptide chains can form into their new curled shape. Reduction breaks disulfide bonds and oxidation reforms them. 2. What is the difference between an alkaline wave and a true acid wave? Answer: An alkaline wave has a pH between 9.0 and 9.6, uses ATG as the reducing agent, and processes at room temperature without the addition of heat. True acid waves have a pH between 4.5 and 7.0 and require heat to process. GMTG, which has a low pH, is the active ingredient. Although a lower pH tends to cause less damage to the hair, acid waves process more slowly, may require the added heat of a hair dryer, and do not usually produce as firm a curl as alkaline waves. (continues) 83

Chapter Review Questions (continued) Why do permanent waves need to be neutralized?  How do thio relaxers straighten the hair? How do hydroxide relaxers straighten the hair? What is curl re-forming and how does it restructure the hair? CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS (continued) 3. Why do permanent waves need to be neutralized? Answer: Neutralization performs two important functions: Any waving solution that remains in the hair is deactivated (neutralized). Disulfide bonds that were broken by the waving solution are rebuilt.  4. How do thio relaxers straighten the hair? Answer: Thio relaxers break disulfide bonds and soften hair. After enough bonds are broken, the hair is straightened into its new shape.  5. How do hydroxide relaxers straighten the hair? Answer: In the process by which they permanently straighten hair, called lanthionization, hydroxide relaxers remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond and convert it into a lanthionine bond. A disulfide bond consists of two bonded sulfur atoms. Lanthionine bonds contain only one sulfur atom. The disulfide bonds that are broken by hydroxide relaxers are broken permanently and can never be reformed.  6. What is curl re-forming and how does it restructure the hair? Answer: Curl re-forming makes the existing curl larger and looser. Also called a soft curl permanent, it is a combination of a thio relaxer and a thio permanent that is wrapped on rods to make existing curls larger and looser. 84