SMKN 1 KATAPANG KABUPATEN BANDUNG YARN TESTING Textile Finishing Technology SMKN 1 KATAPANG KABUPATEN BANDUNG KELAS X SEMESTER 1 & 2

YARN TESTING CLASSIFICATION OF YARN YARN COUNT TESTING YARN TWIST TESTING YARN SRENGTH AND ELONGATION TESTING YARN EVENNESS TESTING YARN APPEARANCE TESTING Teknologi dan Rekayasa

CLASSIFICATION OF YARN : YARNS CAN BE SUBDIVIDED AND CLASSIFIED BY : Fibre Length Yarn Construction Spinning Method Its Function Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Fibre Length Staple Yarn Staple yarns are made by assembling and binding together staple fibres Filament Yarn A yarn composed of continuous filaments assembled with or without twist. Combined Yarn A piled yarn containing two or more yarns that vary in fiber composition, content, and/or twist level; or plied yarn composed of both filament yarn and spun yarn. Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Staple Yarn Short Staple Short staple fibre has a maximum length of 60 millimetres, (cotton fibre is a short staple - about 25 to 45 mm) Long Staple Long staple fibre has a length of more than 60 millimetres, (wool fibre is a long staple - about 60 to 150 mm) Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Filament Yarn Filament Yarn can be classified by fiber composition and its structure : Natural Fibre Filament Yarn Man - Made Fibre Filament Yarn Monofilament Yarn Multifilament Yarn Tow Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Natural Fibre Filament Yarn: Silk is a natural protein filament extruded by the silk-worm. Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Man - Made Filament Yarn : Polyester made from polyvinyl alcohol Rayon Yarn made from cellulose fibre Nylon Yarn made from polyamide Polyacrylic made from polyacrylonitril Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Man Made Filament Yarn Man-made Filament yarns can be further divided into sub-groups : Flat (not textured), Textured, Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Filament Yarn Structure Monofilament Yarn A single filament with or without twist Multifilament Yarn A yarn consisting of many continuous filaments or strands, as opposed to monofilament which is one strand. Tow A large strand of continuous manufactured fiber filaments without definite twist, collected in loose, rope-like form, usually held together by crimp. Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Textured Yarn Textured Yarn Yarns that develop stretch and bulk on subsequent processing. When woven or knitted into fabric, the cover, hand, and other aesthetics of the finished fabric better resemble the properties of a fabric constructed from spun yarn. Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Textured Yarn Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Texturing The process of crimping, imparting random loops, or otherwise modifying continuous filament yarn to increase cover, resilience, abrasion resistance, warmth, insulation, and moisture absorption or to provide a different surface texture. Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Texturing Texturing methods can be placed roughly into six groups : Air Jet Method Edge Crimping Method False Twist Method Gear Crimping Method Knit de Knit Method Stuffer Box Method Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Air Jet Method: In this method of texturing, yarn is led through the turbulent region of an air jet at a rate faster than it is drawn off on the far side of the jet. In the jet, the yarn structure is opened, loops are formed, and the structure is closed again. Some loops are locked inside and others are locked on the surface of the yarn. Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Edge Crimping Method: In this method of texturing, thermoplastic yarns in a heated and stretched condition are drawn over a crimping edge and cooled. Teknologi dan Rekayasa

False-Twist Method: Teknologi dan Rekayasa

False-Twist Method: This continuous method for producing textured yarns utilizes simultaneous twisting, heat-setting, and untwisting. The yarn is taken from the supply package and fed at controlled tension through the heating unit, through a false-twist spindle or over a friction surface that is typically a stack of rotating discs called an aggregate, through a set of take up rolls, and onto a take-up package. The twist is set into the yarn by the action of the heater tube and subsequently is removed above the spindle or aggregate resulting in a group of filaments with the potential to form helical springs. Much higher processing speeds can be achieved with friction false twisting than with conventional spindle false twisting. Both stretch and bulked yarns can be produced by either process. Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Gear Crimping Method: In this texturing method, yarn is fed through the meshing teeth of two gears. The yarn takes on the shape of the gear teeth. Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Knit-de-Knit Method: In this method of texturing, the yarn is knit into a 2-inch diameter hose-leg, heat-set in an autoclave, and then unraveled and wound onto a final package. This texturing method produces a crinkle yarn. Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Stuffer Box Method: The crimping unit consists of two feed rolls and a brass tube stuffer box. By compressing the yarn into the heated stuffer box, the individual filaments are caused to fold or bend at a sharp angle, while being simultaneously set by a heating device. Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Combined Yarn e.g : tetoron cotton yarn tetoron viscose rayon yarn Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Yarn Construction They can be split into four categories : Single Yarn Doubled Yarn Cabled Yarn Novelty Yarn Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Single Yarn The simplest strand of textile material may be formed from fibers with more or less twist; from filaments with or without twist; from narrow strips of material such as paper, cellophane, or metal foil; or from monofilaments. Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Doubled yarn A yarn which two or more single yarns twisted together in one operation. Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Cabled Yarn doubled yarns are twisted together Two or more already folded/ doubled yarns are twisted together Teknologi dan Rekayasa

A yarn produced for a special effect. Novelty Yarn A yarn produced for a special effect. Fancy Yarn Metallic Yarn Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Fancy Yarn Fancy yarns can be made from staple or filament fibres They are intentionly produced to have a distorted or irregular construction Popular effects include knops, snarls, loops and slubs Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Boucle, Gimp and Loop Yarns Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Snarl Yarns Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Knop or Button Yarns Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Slub Yarns Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Marl Yarns Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Spiral and Corkscrew Yarns Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Metallic Yarn Usually produced from aluminium sheets laminated with plastic film, cut into thin ribbons Or can be core spun, for example a polyester core with a metalic outer Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Spinning Method There are a large number of different spinning methods. Here we will look the most relevant ring spun yarns : Carded Yarn A cotton yarn that has been carded but not combed. Combed Yarn A yarn produced from combed sliver. Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Carded Yarn Teknologi dan Rekayasa Cotton Bale Blowing Carding Drawing Roving Spinning Winding Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Combed Yarn Teknologi dan Rekayasa Cotton Bale Blowing Carding Combing Drawing Roving Spinning Winding Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Yarn Function Warp Yarn Weft Yarn Knit Yarn Sewing Thread Embroidery Thread Fancy Yarn Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Warp The warp is the set of lengthwise threads attached to a loom before weaving begins, and through which the weft is woven. W a r p Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Weft The weft is the yarn that is woven back and forth through the warp to make cloth. W e f t Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Knit Yarn Knit Yarns are yarns that were used to produce knit fabrics. Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Sewing Thread A slender, strong strand or cord, especially one designed for sewing or other needlework. Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Embroidery Thread Embroidery thread is yarn that is manufactured or hand-spun specifically for embroidery and other forms of needlework. Teknologi dan Rekayasa

YARN TESTING The important characteristics of yarn being tested are : YARN COUNT YARN STRENGTH AND ELONGATION YARN TWIST YARN APPEARANCE YARN EVENNESS Teknologi dan Rekayasa

YARN COUNT The fineness of the yarn is usually expressed in terms of its linear density or count. For the determination of the count of yarn, it is necessary to determine the weight of a known length of the yarn. Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Yarn Count System Direct System Indirect System There are number of systems and units for expressing yarn count. They are classified as follows : Direct System Indirect System - Tex - English (Ne) - Denier - French (Nf) - Ts - Metric (Nm) Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Measures, Weights, Equivalents Linear Measures Mass 1 inch (1”) = 2,54 cm 12 inches = 1 foot (1’) = 30,48 cm 36 inches = 3 feet = 1 yard = 91.44 cm 120 yards = 1 lea = 109,73 m 7 lea’s = 1 hank = 840 yards = 768 m 1 grain = 64,799 mg 1 pound (1 lb) = 16 ounces = 7000 grains = 453,6 gram 1 ounce (1 oz) = 437,5 grains Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Yarn Count Formulas INDIRECT SYSTEM DIRECT SYSTEM Ne1 = Length (Hank) Weight (Pound) Tex = Weight (Gram) Length (1000 M) Ne2 = Length (300 yards) Td = Weight (Gram) Length (9000 M) Ne3 = Length (560 yards) Ts = Weight (Pound) Length (14.400 Yards) Ne4 = Length (256 yards) Nm = Length (Meter) Weight (Gram) Nf = Length (Meter) Weight (½ Gram) Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Yarn Count Conversion Formulas Ne1 Nm Td Tex - 0,59 Nm 5315 590 1,69 Ne1 9000 1000 9 Tex 9 Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Yarn Count Testing Equipment required : Wrap Reel Analitic Balance Quadrant Balance Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Wrap Reel Creel Yarn Guide Yarn Tensioner Counter Movable flyer Handle Yarn Moving Bar Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Analitical Balance Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Quadran Balance Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Test Procedure A 1. The Yarn is reeled off with a wrap reel. 2. The strand of the wrapped yarn 3. Yarn’s weight is determined Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Test Procedure B 2. The strand of the wrapped yarn 1. The Yarn is reeled off with a wrap reel. 3. The Yarn count is determined with quadrant Balance Teknologi dan Rekayasa

YARN STRENGTH AND ELONGATION Yarn Strength testing is broadly classified into two methods : single end strength testing skein strength or Lea strength testing Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Lea Strength Testing Specimen Preparation : First, a specific length of yarn is taken off the spindle. This machine counts to the proper number of revolutions and stops, thus producing the same length of yarn for each test. Teknologi dan Rekayasa

LEA STRENGTH TESTING Test Procedure : 1. The yarn is mounted on a device that stretches it until it breaks 2. Here the gauge shows this batch broke at about 99.5 kilos - nice and close and well within accepted tolerance. Teknologi dan Rekayasa

For tenacity at break: Gram load at break = tenacity (g/d) Denier Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Yarn Elongation For elongation at break: = Length at break - original length x 100 Original length Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Single End Strength Testing 1. A specific length of yarn is taken . 2. The yarn is then mounted on a device that stretches it until it breaks. 3. Measure the strength in kilos and the elongation in cm. Teknologi dan Rekayasa

YARN TWIST Twist is defined as the spiral disposition of the components of yarn which is generally expressed as the number of turns per unit length of yarn. e.g : Turns Per Inch (TPI) Turns Per Meter (TPM) Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Direction of Twist Direction of twist is expressed as "S"-Twist or "Z"-Twist. Direction depends upon the direction of rotation of the twisting element. Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Testing the Twist of Single Yarn TWIST TESTER Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Testing the Twist of Single Yarn 1. Insert the yarn in the left clamp. Run manually the yarn for some meters. 2. Position manually the rotating clamp, insert the yarn. 3. Pull gradually the yarn through the right clamp until the zeromachine led positioned on the left carriage switch on. Tightened the right clamp. Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Testing the Twist of Single Yarn Start the test by turning the handle in order to untwist the yarn. The yarn will untwist by stretching out and then it will twist again in the opposite direction by shortening. When the machine has reached the zero point (the zero led will light up) Stop, the display will show the corresponding twist Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Testing the Twist of Doubled Yarn TWIST TESTER Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Testing the Twist of Doubled Yarn 1. Insert the yarn in the left clamp. Run manually the yarn for some meters. 2. Position manually the rotating clamp, insert the yarn. 3. Pull gradually the yarn through the right clamp until the zeromachine led positioned on the left carriage switch on. Tightened the right clamp. Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Testing the Twist of DoubledYarn Start the test by turning the handle in order to untwist the yarn. Observe the examined sample to check when the threads that form it begin to be parallel. Now stop the rotation. When you reach the parallelization. Stop. Note down the result Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Testing the Twist of Doubled Yarn To verify the parallelism, insert a needle amidst the threads starting from the left clamp, re-start the clamp rotation and in the same time move the needle towards the rotating clamp If accidentally you go beyond the parallelization point, change the sense if sotation of the handle to restart in the opposite direction Teknologi dan Rekayasa

YARN EVENNESS Yarn Evenness can be defined as the variation in weight per unit length of the yarn or as the variation in its thickness. Teknologi dan Rekayasa

YARN EVENNESS There are a number of different ways of assessing yarn evenness : Visual Examination (Yarn Appearance) Uster Evenness Tester Teknologi dan Rekayasa

YARN APPEARANCE Yarn appearance testing is covering : Neps Slubs Hairiness Color Defect Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Yarn Appearance Testing Equipment required : Blackboard Motorised Wrapping Machine (Yarn Inspector) ASTM Cotton Yarn Appearance Standards Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Yarn Appearance Testing Test Procedure : Wrap the yarn in equally spaced parallel wraps over the board Compare the appearance of irregularities against standard rating photographs Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Tabel Yarn Appearance Index Grade Index A or upper 130 B + 120 B 110 C + 100 C 90 D + 80 D 70 Below D 60 Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Evenness Testing Evenness Testing is : Determination of the variation in weight per unit length and thickness of yarns or fibers aggregates such as roving, sliver, or top. Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Evenness Testing Equipment required : Uster Evenness Tester Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Evenness Testing Principle of Testing : The Uster evenness tester measures the thickness variation of a yarn by measuring capacitance. The yarn to be assessed is passed through two parallel plates of a capacitor whose value is continously measured electronically. Teknologi dan Rekayasa

Evenness Testing The presence of the yarn between the plates changes the capacitance of the system which is governed by the mass of material between the plates and its relative permittivity (dielectric constant). If the relative permittivity remains the same then the measurements are directly related to the mass of material between the plates. Teknologi dan Rekayasa

REFERENCES Pengujian Tekstil 1, Ir. Roetjito, Ir. Gaizia M Djaloes, Departemen Pendidikan dan Kebudayaan, Direktorat Pendidikan Menengah Kejuruan, 1979. Petunjuk Praktek Pengujian Tekstil, Winarni Chatib, Bk.Teks, Oriyati Soenaryo, Bk.Teks, Departemen Pendidikan dan Kebudayaan, Direktorat Pendidikan Menengah Kejuruan, 1979. Physical Testing of Textile, B.P. Saville, Textile Institute, Manchester, England. Teknologi Pencelupan Dan Pencapan Jilid 1, Sunarto, Jakarta : Direktorat Pembinaan Sekolah Menengah Kejuruan, Direktorat Jenderal Manajemen Pendidikan Dasar dan Menengah, Departemen Pendidikan Nasional, 2008. Evaluasi Fisika Tekstil, Wibowo Moerdoko, S.Teks, dkk, Institut Teknologi Tekstil Bandung, 1973 Mengidentifikasi Benang Tekstil, Tim Fakultas Teknik Universitas Negeri Surabaya Departemen Pendidikan Nasional, Proyek Pengembangan Sistem Dan Standar Pengelolaan SMK Direktorat Pendidikan Menengah Kejuruan Jakarta 2001 Operating Instructions and Maintenance, MESDANLAB, Italy Complete Textile Glossary, Celanese Acetate, New York, 2001. Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia Teknologi dan Rekayasa

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