PM 235 Korakoch Kangwantas Make up product PM 235 Korakoch Kangwantas

Make-up: Types Foundation Blushers Mascara Eye-liner Eye shadow Lip colour Nail colour

Make-up: Purpose Improve appearance Impart colour Even-out skin tones Hide imperfection Protection

Make-up: Step Cleaning/ Toner / Serum / Moisturising / Sunscreen Concealer <-> Foundation Face powder Face contouring: highlight / bronzer Eye make up: eye shadow, eye liner, mascara Blushing Lip colour

Make-up: Powder Face powder, eye shadow and blusher Shade must not change as it is worn Smooth feeling Easy application Good adherence for a reasonable time without reapplication

Make-up: Face powder Smoothness Added skin translucency More refined or finer texture Setting the make-up base and adding longevity to the make-up Oil control

Powder: Ingredients Talc Kaolin Major component (up to 70%) of face powder, eye shadow and blusher White, free of asbestos and high spreadability with low covering power Hydrophobic Kaolin Almost white Good absorbency Matte

Powder: Ingredients Calcium carbonate Magnesium carbonate Excellence absorbency Matte Moderate covering (avoid high level) Magnesium carbonate Good absorbency Often used to absorb perfume and mixed into face powder

Powder: Ingredients Metallic soap Starch Zinc and Magnesium stearate ↑ adhesion and water repellence 3-10% of formulation Zinc stearate gives a smooth feeling High level: blotchy effect and too hard pressed powder Starch Smoothness Cake when moistened -> bacterial growth

Powder: Ingredients Mica Translucent when added up to 20% of formulation Wet ground (creamy) dry ground (matte) Sericite (similar to white mica): silky shine, soft, smooth Silicone-coated sericite: ↑ water repellence and adhesion

Powder: Ingredients Polymers Texture enhancers used at 3-40% Nylon, lauryl lysine, boron nitride, polyethylene, polypropylene, ethylene acrylates copolymer, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) and silica beads, polyurethane, silicone powder, borosilicate, microcrystalline cellulose, Teflon Coated on inexpensive beads to reduce cost and increase effectiveness e.g. nylon/mica, silicone/mica, etc.

Powder: Ingredients Perfumes Preservatives Colour additives Raw materials are earthy smelling High stability and low volatility Preservatives Parabens, imidazolidinyl urea, etc. Dry -> Not necessary Small amount of preservative is recommended Colour additives Allergen / formaldehyde releasing

Powder: Ingredients Colorants Titanium dioxide, Zinc oxide Organic, inorganic, carmine or pearlescent colour additives Textures of colorant are not satisfactory FD&C / D&C / Colorant for eyes http://www.fda.gov/forindustry/coloradditives/coloradditiveinventories/ucm1 06626.htm

Colour additives US FDA: FD&C / D&C Inorganic / powder metals / naturally derived colorants Food Ingested/ externally applied drugs General cosmetic Eye area only (if mentioned) External (no mucous membrane): ultramarines, ferric ammonium ferrocyanide not permitted in lip or bath products

Colour additives EU All cosmetic products All cosmetic products, except those intended to be applied in the vicinity of the eyes (eye make-up and make-up and eye removers) Allowed exclusively in cosmetic products intended not to come into contact with mucous membranes (including the eye area) Allowed exclusively in cosmetic products intended not to come into contact only briefly with skin (not permitted in nail preparations)

Inorganic pigments Opaque / light fast / solvent resistance Not as bright as organic colours May be affected by alkali and acid Iron oxide Red (Fe3O4), brown-burgundy (Fe2O3) , black (Fe3O4), yellow (FeOOH) Good stability and opacity Chromium oxide Green Cr2O3 Ultramarine Blue (Nax(AlSiO4)ySz) Good light stability, unstable to acid

Organic pigments Transparency Triarylmethane (blue-green: water soluble, poor light stability) Variable chemical and physical stability Anthraquinone (green: good light stability) Clean and bright colour Quinoline (yellow: oil soluble) Azo (yellow-red: varied properties) Indigold (red: light resistance) Xanthenes (orange-red: structure change with pH, poor light stability)

Natural dyes Generally used in foods Saffron (yellow) Low stability to heat, light and pH Carrot (orange) Chlorophyll (green) Strong odours Beetroot (red) Turmeric (yellow) Sugar (brown)

Pearlescent pigments Organic pearls: fish scales (guanine) CI75170 Inorganic pearls: Bismuth oxychloride (silvery grey / light instability - darken after prolonged exposure) Titanium dioxide-coated mica (various colour depending on thickness of coating) Pigment pearls: iron oxide-laminated titanium dioxide-coated mica Specialty pigments (epoxy-coated light fast pigment laminated foil -> nail colour)

Face powder Loose face powder Pressed face powder: +Binder Properties of a binder - creaminess - adhesion - compression - water resistance - too much binder: difficult to remove powder with puff / glazing

Foundation Hide skin flaws Even various colour tones in the skin Environmental protectant Smoothen the skin

Foundation Fast drying -> proper play time Non-settling, easily pour, stable in storage Should not feel tacky, greasy, or too dry Improve appearance naturally Shade consistency Not peel-off, go orangy on skin or rub-off on clothes (treated pigments and volatile silicone -> water-resistance)

Foundation Formulation – Liquid / Powder / Cream Coverage (% pigment) – Sheer 8-13% / Light 13-18% / Medium 18-23% / Full up to 50%

Foundation Liquid: dry to combination skin set off with powder Cream: dry skin Powder: oily skin

Foundation Loose powder Pressed powder Water-base: water + oil Water-base- oil free: water + emollient ester / fatty alcohol Water-base-transfer resistance: +film former Silicone-base: light weight / pore and line filler / smoothness

Foundation: Ingredients Anhydrous foundation Emollients: light texture and low viscosity: oils, esters and silicones Waxes: Beeswax, paraffin, polyethylene, etc. Pigments: titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide Texture agents: nylon, talc, mica, boron nitride, Teflon, starch, etc. Wetting agent: low HLB emulsifiers, polyglyceryl esters

Mascara Bring out the contrast between the iris and the white of the eye, sharpens white of the eyes Thickens the appearance of the lashes Lengthen the appearance of the eye Add depth and character to the overall look Sharpens the colour of the eye shadow when worn

Mascara Application Appearance Wear Ease of removal Film-former / pigment and the vehicle (evaporates)

Mascara Anhydrous solvent based suspension: waterproof but not smudge-proof and difficult to remove w/o emulsion: waterproof but not smudge-proof and can be remove with soap and water o/w emulsion: flake-proof and smudge-proof waterproof with emulsion polymers: acrylics, polyvinyl acetates or polyurethanes

Cream eyeshadows Volatile solvents: cyclomethicone, hydrocarbons, isoparaffins Waxes Emollients: esters, oils, silicones Gellants: bentonite derivertives, hectonite derivertives Colorants and pearls Fillers: mica, talc, sericite Functional fillers: boron nitride, PMMA, nylon, starch, silica, teflon

Eyeliners Frame the eye Adding or changing shape Bringing out the colour contrast between the iris and white of the eye Making lashes appear thicker Liquid / gel / pencil

Eyeliner Liquid eyeliner recipe - Solvent (water) / Gellant (magnesium aluminium silicate and bentonite) / wetting agents (water-soluble esters and high HLB emulsifiers) / polyols (propylene glycol) / colorants (iron oxides and other inorganic) / alcohol (solubilise resins and improve dry time) / film formers (PVP, PVA, acrylics, PVP/VA, PVP/urethanes) Pencil recipe – oils, esters silicones / high melting point triglycerides / stearic acid / synthetic waxes / colorants and pearls / fillers (mica, talc, sericite) / functional fillers (boron nitride, Teflon, PMMA, silicas)

lipsticks Add colour to the face for a healthier look Shape the lips Condition the lips Harmonise the face between the eyes, hair, and clothes Create the illusion of smaller or larger lips

lipsticks Ingredients: emollients (castor oils, esters, lanolin, etc.) / waxes (carnauba, beeswax, lanolin, paraffin, etc.) / wax modifiers: improve texture, application and stability (cetyl acetate and acetylated lanolin, oleyl alcohol, petroleum) / actives: add moisture (hyaluronate, vit C, vit E) / fillers (mica, silica, nylon, etc.) Stick: Sheer dense matte shiny / Liquid: lipgloss

Beware!! Colour additives Asbestos in talcum Mercury, lead and heavy metal in lipstick Comedogenicity Storage

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