Light Cured GELS Chapter 29

Introduction Light cured gels UV LED Enhancement product that hardens when exposed to UV and LED light source

Why Study? (run highlighter over bullet points) Clients may be interested Understanding of chemistry of products will allow for choosing the best system and products Understanding how light cured gels are made, applied, and cured will allow for a safe and efficient salon service Clients become loyal and steadfast when they receive excellent light cured services

Comprehend the Chemistry of Light Cured Gels Light cured gel enhancements rely on ingredients from the acrylate family Wrap resins – subcategory called “cyanacrylates” Monomer liquid/polymer powder nail enhancements are from the same category called “methacrylate” UV gels contain monomers – related form called “oligomer”

“mono” meaning “one” “poly” meaning “many” “oligo” meaning “few” Oligomer is a short chain of monomers not long enough to be considered a polymer Monomers are liquid Polymers are solids Oligomers are in between – thick, gel-like, and sticky

Traditionally – urethane acrylate Newer – urethane methacrylates Urethane – type of starting material used to create the most common light cured gel resins Known for high abrasion resistance and durability

Light cured gels react when exposed to UV or LED light source Chemical called photoinitiator initiates the polymerization reaction Combination of the resin, photoinitiator and the proper curing bulb – cause gel to cure completely Employ a single component resin compound that is cured to a solid material when exposed to a UV or LED light source

Difference between light cured gels is the type of photoinitiator used in the formula Measure of light that photoinitiator responds to LED gels cure when exposed to a certain measure of light found in LED lamps When LED gel is directly exposed to this light, it causes the oligomers to start to cure immediately When exposed for recommended amount of time, they cure completely solid

The photoinitiator found in UV gels cause the gel to cure when directly exposed UV radiation at that certain found in UV lamps All gels will cure if exposed to natural and florescent or any full spectrum light – just happens slower as not direct intense exposure Keep containers and brushes covered – so do not slowly cure and harden

Gels to react to either UV or LED light Read manufacturer’s recommendation and follow which light to use Did you know box – PP 989

Light cured gels Easy to apply File Maintain Create beautiful long lasting enhancements Very little to no odor Not as durable as methacrylate enhancements More flexible

Application process differs Nail plate is properly prepared Each layer of product applied requires exposure to UV or LED light to cure or harden Special lamp designed to emit proper type of UV or LED light

Describe Light Cured Gels Find the system that works for you Gel that is thick and does not self-level by itself or Gels that quickly self-level Viscosity – measurement of the thickness or thinness of a liquid – affects how the fluid flows

One-color method Two-color-method Did you Know box – PP 990 One color applied to entire nail Wear as colored polish Two-color-method two colors applied Usually pink and white Did you Know box – PP 990

Types of Light Cured Gels UV Bonding Gels Increase adhesion to natural nail plate Vary in consistency and chemical components No strong odor Avoid using too much product to prevent running into the skin Can increase the risk of developing skin irritation or sensitivity

UV Building Gels Thick-viscosity resin Allows building of arch and curve to nail Do not pat gel– gently brush or float gel onto nail Avoid air in gel Too little curing – Service breakdown Skin irritation/skin sensitivity Improper hand position inside bulb – improper curing

Building gels - used with self-leveling gels – reduce amount of filing and shaping Fiberglass strands compounded into gel – have hardness and durability that closely resemble monomer liquid and polymer powder systems Great for repairing cracks and breaks

Self-leveling gels – thinner consistency Settle and level during application Enhance thickness to overlay Smoother surface Building gel first then self-leveling Create enhancement Reduce filing and contouring Caution Box – PP 991 Did you know Box – PP 991

Pigmented UV Gels UV Gel Polish Building & self leveling gels Two-color method Usually pink & white UV Gel Polish Very thin viscosity Packaged in a pot or bottle Cure in UV or LED lamp Immediately dry to touch Color stays without chipping 3 – 4 times longer than traditional polish Cream, frosted and glitter – can be mixed together

Glossing Gel Sealing gel, finishing gel, shine gel Creates a high shine Inhibition layer – is a tacky surface left on the nail after a UV gel has cured 2 types – traditional & Tack-free gloss gels

Inhibition layer – tacky surface left on the nail after UV or LED gel has cured Traditional gloss does not discolor after prolonged exposure Tack free gloss often discolor Opacity – amount of colored pigment concentration in a gel, making it more or less difficult to see through

Name the Supplies Required for Light Cured Gels Light Curing Gel lamps Designed to produce the correct amount of UV or LED light needed to cure products

Brush Synthetic bristles (write-in PP 993) Small Flat or oval

Gel Primer or Bonding Gel Improve adhesion to natural plate Follow mfg directions Light Cured Gel Nail Forms Nail Tips Nail Adhesive

Abrasive Files & Buffers Medium to fine abrasive buffer– 180 – 240 grit Natural nail preparation Medium to fine grit abrasive file 180 - 240 grit smoothing Fine buffer (write in PP 994) 350 grit or higher finishing High shine buffer – no polish is to be worn

Lint-free cleansing wipes Cleaning solution Contains isopropanol Used to clean natural nail Remove sticky inhibition layer from gel after curing Lint-free cleansing wipes Cleanse nail surface Do not allow gel to touch the skin

Storing Light Cured Gels Lids on tight Containers are upright to avoid leakage Store on cool, dark place Keep brush and open gel containers away from sunlight, gel lamps, full-spectrum table lamps Do not leave open container near a window or UV or LED lamp

When to Use Light Cures Gels “Anytime” - New technology allows light cured gel manufacturers to create Tough Durable Hard products “Never” – clients refuse to change Most clients will do whatever you recommend Gels have fewer odors than acrylics

Gel polishes applied similar manner to traditional polish Less solvent Cure under UV or LED lamps Wear longer than traditional polish Questions: How easily would client like polish to be removed? How long does client want polish to last?

Choose the Proper Light Cured Gel Technology Highlight bullet points

Distinguish the Difference Between Light Cured Bulbs and Lamps UV Bulb UV light bulb 4-, 6-, 7-, 8-, 9- watt bulbs UV Lamp UV light unit Powers and controls UV bulbs to cure UV gel nail LED Lamp (Light Omitting Diodes) House LED bulbs Cure about 4 times faster than UV lamps LED 30 seconds – UV 2 minutes

Use the lamp designed for the UV Gels product Wattage Measure of how much electricity the bulb consumes 4 bulbs each nine watts = 36 watt lamp Does NOT indicate how much UV or LED light a lamp will emit Use the lamp designed for the UV Gels product Greater chance of success and fewer problems

UV gel products packaged in opaque pots or squeeze tubes to avoid exposure to UV light (sunlight, tanning beds) “Full spectrum bulbs” and “true color” Shelf life may be shortened and harden on containers if exposed to light (products)

UV bulbs stay violet for years After a few months of use they may produce too little UV light to properly cure enhancement Bulbs must be changed 2 – 3 times per year If not changed regularly – Service breakdown Skin irritation/sensitivity Most common – 9 watt Check manufacturer to determine what wattage is to be used

LED - becoming more common Will not cure UV gels Here’s a Tip Box – PP 999 No studies to support claim that UV lights cause skin cancer

Specify the Advantages of Light Cured Gel Polish Emerged in 2000 Highly pigmented Removed differently Do not dry – they cure Will not imprint or smudge Do not thicken over time Traditional polish does

Relate Nail Art to Light Cured Gels Inlaid art is sandwiched between 2 layers of enhancement products Nail is smooth Structure is not compromised Glitter or confetti

Perform Light Cured Gel Maintenance and Removal Every two weeks Gel maintenance Use medium grit (180 grit) to thin and shape Cleanse with manufacturer’s recommended products Add light cured gel to regrowth

Light cured gel removal Hard gel Traditional gels Cannot be soaked off Must be filed off Soft gel Soakable gels Soak in acetone 5 – 10 minutes Scrape of with wooden stick Follow manufacturer’s directions “Here’s a Tip” Box – PP 1001

Light Cured Gel Application Pages 1002 – 1005 – One color method Pages 1006 – 1008 – Two-color method

Application of Light Cured Gel over Forms

Light Cured Gel Maintenance PP 1012 - 1014

Monomer Liquid & Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements with UV or LED Gel Polish PP 1015 - 1016

Light Cured Gel Removal – Hard Gel PP - 1017

Light Cured Gel Removal – Soft or Soakable Gel Polishes PP - 1018 - 1019