Greige Goods Refers to fabric right off the loom. Raw fabric before undergoing dying or bleaching

Fabric Finishes Any special treatments that are applied to fabrics. May be permanent or temporary.

Purposes of Fabric Finishes Reduce undesirable characteristics. Improve desirable characteristics. Create specific designs. Offer smoother or firmer hand. Add specific properties, such as: wrinkle resistance.

Dyeing Textiles Dyes Compounds that penetrate and color fibers. Different fibers require different types.

Methods of Dyeing Stock Solution Yarn Piece Product

Stock dyeing refers to dyeing a staple fiber before it is spun. Solution Dyeing – A type of fiber dyeing in which colored pigments are injected into the spinning solution prior to the extrusion of the fiber through the spinneret. Fibers and yarns colored in this manner are color-fast to most destructive agents.

Dyeing Fiber Yarn Piece Product Adding color to fibers before spinning into yarns Yarn Placing yarns in dye bath before making into fabric Piece Fabrics dyed after weaving or knitting Product Dyed after construction

Kinds of Dyes Synthetic fiber dyes: dye depends on type of fiber Acid dyes: Acid producing compound is used in the dye bath. Used on wool, mohair, angora, and silk. Fiber reactive dyes: Dyes react to the molecules of fibers. Used on cotton, rayon, linen, hemp and silk. Disperse dye: used on polyester and acetate fibers.

Colorfast Color in a fabric will not change.

Types of Printing Roller Screen Rotary Heat transfer Resist

Screen Printing Earliest known method. Uses a screen to transfer print. Different screen for each color.

Roller Printing Design is etched on copper rollers. Each color in design requires separate roller. Simple and fast. Expensive

Rotary Printing Combines both roller and screen printing methods.

Heat Transfer Dyes are first printed on paper. Paper is placed on fabric and with heat and pressure, the design is transferred to fabric. T-shirts are commonly printed with this method.

Resist Printing Resist printing involves a two-step procedure in which a design pattern is printed on a white or dyed fabric with chemical or wax that will prevent the dyes from penetrating the fabric. When the fabric is dyed, the color is absorbed only where there is no resist. Then the resist is removed. Resist Printing- uses wax or chemicals

Wood Block Printing Earliest form of printing Slowest method

Digital Printing Ink jet based method of printing colorants onto fabric.

Structural Design Woven directly into the fabric. Provides an interesting texture. Example: jacquards

Printing Textiles Involves transferring color to the surface of a fabric to form a pattern of design.

Appearance/Texture Finishes

Finishes Affecting Appearance and Texture Stone Washing Acid washing Napping Flocking Brushing Embossing

Stone Washing and Acid Dyes Hugely popular in the 1980’s. Pumice stones used to create a faded fabric look. Acid Dyes: Introduced to produce same effects as stone washing. Not environmentally friendly.

Napping Raises the fiber ends to the surface to be clipped, brushed, or left raised. Creates a softer, fuzzy texture to the fabric. Common fabrics include: fleece, suede flannel, corduroy, and velvet.

Flocking Surface design Applied to the fabric. Applying texture by depositing many small fiber particles onto a surface of fabric.

Brushing Mechanical Finish Fabric passed through wire rollers. Produces soft and fluffy fabric. Common fabric: fleece

Embossing Fabric is passed through engraved rollers. Creates a raised design. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p5yJOb8XmjE

Performance Finishes

Performance Finishes Antimicrobial/Antibiotic/Antifungal Anti-static Durable press (Permanent Press) Shrinkage control/Sanfordized Mercerization Stain release/Stain resistant

Performance Finishes Water repellent and waterproof Flame-resistant Mildew resistance Moth resistance Wrinkle resistant/ Crease resistant

Performance Finishes Anti-Bacterial (Anti-Microbial) - A fabric that has been chemically treated or a fiber that is created by incorporating the anti-bacterial chemical agent into the fiber formula, making the finished fiber or fabric resistant to, or inhibiting the growth of micro-organisms.   Anti-Static - Can be either a fiber or fabric that does not allow the build-up of static electricity to occur when the fiber or fabric experiences friction or rubbing.

Performance Finishes Permanent Press/Durable Press - A treatment applied to the fabric in the finishing process in which it maintains a smooth attractive appearance, resists wrinkling, and retains creases or pleats during laundering. Durable Press - A treatment applied to the fabric in the finishing process in which it maintains a smooth attractive appearance, resists wrinkling, and retains creases or pleats during laundering. Durable Water Repellent (DWR) - Fabrics that retain their durability and their ability to repel water after wearing, washing, and cleaning. Typically involves a fabric with a coating Encapsulation - A process in which the fibers of a fabric are coated with a filmy substance to create certain high performance qualities, such as breathability.

Performance Finishes & Fabrics Sanforization AKA Shrinkage Control- is a process of treatment used for cotton fabrics mainly and most textiles made from natural or chemical fibres, patented by Sanford Lockwood Cluett (1874–1968) in 1930. It is a method of stretching, shrinking and fixing the woven cloth in both length and width before cutting and producing, to reduce the shrinkage which would otherwise occur after washing. Repellency - The ability of a fabric to resist such things as wetting and staining by water, stains, soil, etc. Sanforized - Registered trademark of Cluett, Peabody & Co. for fabrics processed by machine so that residual shrinkage will not exceed 1% in either direction (according to the U.S.?s standard wash test CCC-T-191a),, despite repeated washings. Smart Textiles - Textiles that can sense and react to changes in the environment, such as changes from mechanical , thermal, chemical, magnetic and other sources.

Performance Finishes Mercerization – is a process applied to cellulosic fibers to increase luster. It is done after weaving (in the case of fabrics) or spinning (for yarns or threads) Mercerization - Process of treating cotton yarn or fabric. * Fabric or yarn is immersed in a caustic soda solution and later neutralized in acid. The process causes a permanent swelling fiber, resulting in an increased luster on surface of fabric, increased affinity for dyes, and increased strength. Perspiration Resistant - A treatment on a fabric which allows a fabric or a dye to resist perspiration. Phase Change Materials - A hydrophilic compound applied to a fiber or fabric which results in superior breathability and a moisture management system within the fabric that helps to maintain a comfortable body temperature when the garment is worn.

Performance Finishes Repellency - The ability of a fabric to resist such things as wetting and staining by water, stains, soil, etc. Water Repellent - Fabrics that retain their durability and their ability to repel water after wearing, washing, and cleaning. Typically involves a fabric with a coating Durable Press - A treatment applied to the fabric in the finishing process in which it maintains a smooth attractive appearance, resists wrinkling, and retains creases or pleats during laundering. Durable Water Repellent (DWR) - Fabrics that retain their durability and their ability to repel water after wearing, washing, and cleaning. Typically involves a fabric with a coating Encapsulation - A process in which the fibers of a fabric are coated with a filmy substance to create certain high performance qualities, such as breathability.

Performance Finishes & Fabrics Soil Release Some soil release finishes provide resistance to soiling as well as ease of soil removal. Stain Repellent - Ability of fabric to resist wetting & staining by water. Stain Resistance - A fiber or fabric property of resisting spots and stains. Soil Release - Purpose of increasing absorbency of fabric on durable press blends. Allows stain to leave fabric faster, increases wicking action for improved comfort and imparts greater ease in cleaning. Some soil release finishes provide resistance to soiling as well as ease of soil removal. Stain Repellent - The ability of a fabric to resist wetting and staining by water.   Stain Resistance - A fiber or fabric property of resisting spots and stains.

Performance Finishes & Fabrics Flame Resistant - Fabrics treated with special chemical agents or finishes to make them resistant to burning. Today many fabrics achieve this property by using fibers that have this property built directly into the polymer. A fabric is considered flame resistant if it passes federal specifications for specific end-uses. Flame Retardant - A chemical applied to a fabric, or incorporated into the fiber at the time of production, which significantly reduces a fabric's flammability. Flame Resistant - Fabrics treated with special chemical agents or finishes to make them resistant to burning. Today many fabrics achieve this property by using fibers that have this property built directly into the polymer. A fabric is considered flame resistant if it passes federal specifications for specific end-uses. Flame Retardant - A chemical applied to a fabric, or incorporated into the fiber at the time of production, which significantly reduces a fabric's flammability.

Performance Finishes & Fabrics Wrinkle Resistant- fabric that does not wrinkle easily Crease Resistant - resistant to normal wrinkling. Wind Resistant - The ability of a fabric to act against or oppose the penetration of wind or air, but it is not totally windproof.   Windproof - The ability of a fabric to be non-permeable to wind and air. Wrinkle Free - A resistant to wrinkling created through the use of a variety of finishes and treatments.

Innovations in Textiles Microfibers Polor fleece Bamboo fabric-biodegradable Lyocel (Tencel)- Made from wood pulp from trees grown in replanted forests.

Innovations in Textiles Biocotton- developed fiber that is non-allergic. Nanotechnology- molecular structure of the chemicals used to form fibers has been altered. Micro Encapsulation Particles are filled with active ingredients and applied to the fabric or garment. Examples- moisturizers, insect repellents

Green Fabric Finishes Reduce the health and environmental impact by lowering the amount of chemicals and other harmful substances used in the finishing process.

Smart Fabrics E-textiles (Electronic Textiles) Fabrics that enable digital components to be embedded. Wearable technology