100 Years of Fashion A very Brief History

1920’s

Events 1920’s Post WW1, Paris Influence Women’s Vote Prohibition Talking Movies Increasing Prosperity Modern Art, music, literature Birth of Sportswear

Public Reactions – 1920’s Daring looks and behavior Freedom for the body Short hair styles Women begin to smoke Dancing (Charleston)

Fashion Trends – 1920’s Chemise Dresses Short skirts T-strap shoes Cloche hats Costume looks Long strands of beads

Designers – 1920’s Madeleine Vionnet Jean Patou Edward Molyneaux Coco Channel Norman Hartnell Jeanne Lanvin

1930’s

Events – 1930’s Depression era Unemployment, little $ Hollywood influence; stars and designers Rayon and acetate fabrics Big bands, swing music

Public Reactions – 1930’s Frugality, conservatism “The little woman” “Make do” attitude

Fashion Trends 1930’s Soft looks, light fabrics Long hems, bias cuts Big hats, big brims Fox fur-collared coats Wraps Platform shoes Broad shouldered jackets

1930’s Designers Madame Gres Elsa Schiaparelli Vera Maxwell Mainbocher Jean Dresses

1940’s

Events – 1940’s World War II: government restrictions Shortage of materials Emergence of American designers Exit France as fashion source Crooners: Crosby, Sinatra Radio, records Dior – 1947 “New Look”

1940’s - Public Reactions Women take men’s jobs Glamour, pinup girls Strong nationalism Common cause philosophy

Fashion Trends 1940’s Mannish suits, tailored , peplum jackets Padded shoulders Knee-length straight skirts Soft, shoulder-length hair ¾ length coats Debut of the bikini

1940’s Designers Claire McCardell Norman Norell Christian Dior Cristobal Balenciaga Bonnie Cashin Adrian Pauline Trigere Nina Ricci

1950’s

Events – 1950’s Baby boom – population increasing Korean war Move to suburbs Income rising More imports Improved transportation, communications (TV) Birth of Rock ‘n’ roll More synthetics, finishes

1950’s - Public Reactions Buy new homes, appliances Conformity Improved quality of family life Increased leisure time used for sports & recreation The station wagon

Fashion Trends 1950’s Classics – shirtwaist dress Sweater sets Unisex looks Sportswear Ivy League look: button- down shirts, skinny ties, gray flannel suit Car coats Capri pants

1950’s Designers Hubert de Givenchy Mary Quant Yves Saint Laurent James Galanos Donald Brooks Gucci Missoni

1960’s

Events – 1960’s Rise of shopping centers, boutiques New technology – stretch fabrics Designer names Civil rights movement Woodstock Vietnam war; antiwar movement London influence: The Beatles, Twiggy, Mod

1960’s - Public Reactions New sexual freedom Experimental in fashion Antiestablishment attitudes Generation gap Divorce, singles Drug experimentation Identity seeking, new values

Fashion Trends 1960’s Jeans Miniskirts Knits, polyester Ethnic clothing & crafts Wild use of color patterns Long hair, wigs Vinyl, synthetic fabrics Turtlenecks, wide ties, Nehru jackets, golf coordinates

1960’s Designers Andre Courreges Pierre Cardin Anne Klein Geoffrey Beene Halston Rudi Gernreich Emilio Pucci Valentino Emanuel Ungaro

1970’s

Events – 1970’s Equal Rights, Women’s Lib Women working outside the home Ecology, conservation Stabilizing economy End of Vietnam War Disco dancing, clubs Consumerism

1970’s - Public Reactions Individualism Back to nature, health foods, natural fibers Urban renewal, interest in cities & their problems Equal Rights Amendment Overseas manufacturing

Fashion Trends 1970’s Pantsuits / women Leisure suits / men Jeans: bell bottoms, straight & tapered leg T-shirts, tank tops, boots Classic blazer, shirt, investment clothing Hot pants Romantic looks

1970’s Designers Bill Blass Ralph Lauren Zandra Rhodes Giorgio Armani Calvin Klein Vivienne Westwood Betsy Johnson Oscar de la Renta Bob Mackie Norma Kamali

1980’s

Events – 1980’s Computer explosion Music videos Yuppies Two income families New baby boom Movies: Fame, Flashdance Birth of MTV Licensing arrangements

1980’s - Public Reactions Buy home computers Michael Jackson, youth hero Entrepreneurship Day-care centers Graffiti art London influence – Punk, Boy George, Culture Club Patriotism Proliferation of malls

Fashion Trends 1980’s Punk hairdos Androgynous dressing Torn clothes fad Hats return for everyone Backpacks as fashion Tailored suits and classic dressing Sneakers for everyday wear

1980’s Designers Donna Karan Perry Ellis Christian Lacroix Gianni Versace Tommy Hilfiger Issay Miyake Michael Kors Karl Lagerfeld Jean-Paul Gaultier Liz Claiborne

1990’s

Events – 1990’s Gulf war Economic recession High-tech industry growth Rise of terrorism NAFTA, GATT Cellular phones proliferate Sex and the City

1990’s - Public Reactions Expansion of companies overseas Business failures, consolidations & takeovers Casual Fridays Proliferation of foreign manufacturing

Fashion Trends 1990’s Grunge Retro Chunky shoes Rise of vintage Innerwear as outerwear Layering Decade of the supermodel Slip dresses, chinos Image & branding more important than style change

1990’s Designers Isaac Mizrahi John Galliano Vera Wang Marc Jacobs Prada Alexander McQueen Tom Ford Narcisco Rodriguez Dolce & Gabbana Jil Sander

2000’s

Events – 2000’s Expansion of communication technology September 11th terrorist attacks Emergence of the Euro

2000’s - Public Reactions Online shopping Merchant/vendor data sharing

2000’s – Fashion trends Mixing color, texture and pattern Short layers over long End of haute couture influence

2000’s Designers Zac Posen Phillip Lim Nicolas Ghesquiere Stella McCartney Proenza Schouler Roberto Cavali Viktor & Rolf Peter Som