Lecture 1 Introduction To TXC 6-Summer 2007 M.R. Badrossamay

Lecturer: Maryam Tamizifar Office: 257 Everson hall Email: mtamizifar@ucdavis.edu Office hours: Tuesdays 4-5 pm, by smartsite, or any convenient time

Lectures I. Introduction (7) Chap.1, 7,8 TXC 6-Summer 2007 Lectures I. Introduction (7) Chap.1, 7,8 A. Textile Materials and Their Performance B. Fiber Classification and Theory C. Fiber Identification II. Textile Fiber Production, Processing, Properties (6) 10-21 A. Natural Fibers (Protein and Cellulosic) B. Manufactured Fibers (Regenerated Natural and Synthetic) III. Yarns (3) 22-25 A. Yarn Formation and Structure B. Texturing and Blending IV. Fabrication 26-29 A. Weaving and Woven Structures B. Knitting and Knitted Structures C. Nonwoven, and Composite Fabrics V. Finishing and Coloration (5) 30-35, 9 A. Physical and Chemical Finishes B. Color, Dyes, Dyeing and Printing C. Textile Labeling M.R. Badrossamay

Lecture 1 TXC 6-Summer 2007 Laboratory I. Textile Structure Identification II. Fiber Identification III. Yarn Identification IV. Fabric Construction Identification V. Finishing Identification VI. Dyed and Printed Fabrics Identification M.R. Badrossamay

Lecture 1: Textile Materials and Their Performance TXC 6-Summer 2007 Lecture 1: Textile Materials and Their Performance Outline: Introduction Definition of widely-used Terms Textile Performances General Features of Fabrics Fabricated Textile Products Fiber Morphology Fiber Macrostructure M.R. Badrossamay

TEXTILES or TEXTILE MATERIALS Lecture 1 TXC 6-Summer 2007 TEXTILES or TEXTILE MATERIALS Textile materials are fibers, yarns, fabrics, and products made from fabrics which retain more or less completely the strength, flexibility, and other typical properties of original fiber or filaments. ASTM (D123-88b), “Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles” M.R. Badrossamay

Textile Structure Fabric, Yarn, Fiber, Colorant & Chemicals Lecture 1 TXC 6-Summer 2007 Textile Structure Fabric, Yarn, Fiber, Colorant & Chemicals M.R. Badrossamay

Lecture 1 TXC 6-Summer 2007 Textile Performance Performance (Serviceability): Measure of a textile’s ability to meet consumer’s needs (major requirements that fabrics generally meet), Aesthetics: Attractiveness or appearance of a textile product Durability: How a product withstands use; length of time the product is suitable for the use for which it was purchased M.R. Badrossamay

Lecture 1 TXC 6-Summer 2007 Performance Cont. Comfort: How a textile product affects heat, air, and moisture transfer, interaction of body and textile product. Maintenance (Appearance retention): How the product maintains its original appearance during use and care*. Health/safety/protection: its ability to protect the body and environment from a variety of harmful substances. *Care: Treatment required to maintain a textile product’s original appearance M.R. Badrossamay

Fabrics Definition & Components Lecture 1 TXC 6-Summer 2007 Fabrics Definition & Components A planar structure consisting of yarns or fibers General Features: Fiber Yarn Fabric Construction Interstices (voids) Colorant & Chemicals M.R. Badrossamay

Lecture 1 TXC 6-Summer 2007 1. Fiber Any substance, natural or manufactured, which is characterized by having a length at least 100 times its diameter or width and can be spun into yarns, or made into a fabric. Generally the ratio is 1000:1, and fiber diameter varies from 11-50 micrometers Continuous fiber (FILAMENT): Silk and synthetic fibers Short fiber (STAPLE): Cotton, wool, cut lengths of filament M.R. Badrossamay

Structural & Cross-sectional shapes of Fibers Lecture 1 TXC 6-Summer 2007 Structural & Cross-sectional shapes of Fibers M.R. Badrossamay

Lecture 1 TXC 6-Summer 2007 2. Yarn An assemblage of fibers that is twisted or laid together so as to form a continuous strand that can be made into a textile fabric, Spun, Filament, Compound and Fancy Yarn. M.R. Badrossamay

4. Interstices (Voids) - Spaces in fabrics Lecture 1 TXC 6-Summer 2007 3. Fabric Construction Arrangement of yarns or fibers within a fabric; interlacing (woven fabrics) interlooping (knitted fabrics) bonding the fibers or filaments (nonwovens) 4. Interstices (Voids) - Spaces in fabrics M.R. Badrossamay

5. Colorant & Chemicals Colorants: Dyes (Mostly soluble) Lecture 1 TXC 6-Summer 2007 5. Colorant & Chemicals Colorants: Dyes (Mostly soluble) Pigments (Insoluble) Chemicals: Finishing agents Acids and bases Surfactants M.R. Badrossamay

Fabricated Textile Products Lecture 1 TXC 6-Summer 2007 Fabricated Textile Products Apparel, Interior Textiles, Household Textiles, and Institutional Textiles, Industrial Textiles and Consumer Textiles, M.R. Badrossamay

Classification of Fibers Lecture 1 TXC 6-Summer 2007 Classification of Fibers Natural Fibers: Vegetable fibers: Seed (Cotton, Kapok, etc) Bast (Flax , Ramie, Hemp, Jute, etc.) Leaf (sisal, abaca or manila, etc) Animal fibers: Silk, Wool, Animal hair (Alpaca, Camel, Mohair, Cashmere) Mineral fiber: Asbestos M.R. Badrossamay

Classification of Fibers, cont. Lecture 1 TXC 6-Summer 2007 Classification of Fibers, cont. Man-made Fibers: Inorganic Fibers: Glass , ceramic, metal Regenerated Fiber: Rayon, Polynosic, Tencel, Lyocell, Casein, etc. Semi-Synthetic fibers: Cellulose acetate Synthetic Fibers: Polyamide (Nylon), Polyester, Acrylic, Modacrylic, Aramides, Polyethylene, Polypropylene, Polyurethane (Spandex) …. M.R. Badrossamay

Lecture 1 TXC 6-Summer 2007 Fiber Morphology Morphology: Study of size, shape, and structure of a material and the relationships between aspects of structure. Includes: Macrostructure Microstructure Submicroscopic Structure Fine Structure M.R. Badrossamay

Macrostructure Observable features of fiber structure; LENGTH: Lecture 1 TXC 6-Summer 2007 Macrostructure Observable features of fiber structure; LENGTH: Staple: 3/4 - 18 inches (or 2- 46 cm) Filament: infinite length Fibers shorter than 15 mm are classified as nontextile fibers SIZE: Expressed in terms of diameter or linear density, or cross- sectional area The size of Natural fibers is given as diameter (D), in micrometer (μm), usually D is 11-70 μm, cotton(16-21), wool(17-40) Fibers exceeding D>50 μm are classified as nontextile fibers The finer the natural fiber size, the higher the quality of the fiber Silk and manufactured fibers are given in denier or tex units. M.R. Badrossamay

Lecture 1 TXC 6-Summer 2007 Denier: The weight in grams of 9,000 meters of any linear material, one denier = one gram of 9,000 meters of fiber, Tex: The weight in grams of 1,000 meters of any linear material, or 1/9 of 1 denier, Coarse 6.3-25 denier or 0.70-2.78 tex Medium 2.2-6.3 denier or 0.24-0.70 tex Fine fibers <2.2 denier or 0.24 tex Micro fiber <1 denier or 0.11 tex Ultra-fine Micro fiber <0.3 denier or 0.033 tex Increase in denier or tex numbers increase in fiber size M.R. Badrossamay

Lecture 1 TXC 6-Summer 2007 Macrostructure Cont. CRIMP : refers to waves, bends, twists or curls along the fiber length Linear, 2- or 3-dimensional , inherent or latent crimp. Crimp can increase the binding force between fibers. COLOR: Natural fibers are white or off-white, tan or brown Manufactured fibers generally are white or off-white, also changeable M.R. Badrossamay