Braiding and Braid Extensions Chapter 18 Braiding and Braid Extensions 2016 Edition

More important the person, the more elaborate the braids were Origins in Africa Different styles ~ social status More important the person, the more elaborate the braids were Amyhairbraiding.com

Today ~ signals self-esteem and self-image Africa ~art form ~ handed down from generation to generation Investment of time African cultures ~ opportunity for women to socialize and form relationships

Historically first highly decorative braids Historically first highly decorative braids were seen in African tribes However: 3000 BC-Egyptian women wore braids and plaits with shells/beads Ancient women from India wore heavy braids 100 AD Anasazi (American Southwest) and Native Americans favored braids

Today ~ salons practice “natural hairstyling” No chemicals or dyes (Henna/Metallic Salts) ~ does not alter the natural curl or coil pattern For people of all ethnicities Diverse approach to hair care

With proper care ~ can last up to three months ~ 6-8 weeks preserves the health of the hair Investment in time and money is high Detailed consultation ~ ensures a happy ending Fill out client intake form ~ update every appointment

Hair Analysis Consultation: ~ condition of hair and scalp ~hair type and texture ~curl configuration ~scalp abrasions ~hair thinning or balding

Braiding and Textured Hairstyling Consultation: consists of Hair and scalp analysis Texture determination Elasticity and porosity test Style determination Product recommendations Diameter ~ coarse, medium, or fine

Feel ~ oily, dry, hard, soft, smooth, coarse, or wiry Wave pattern (coil configuration) ~ straight, wavy, curly, or coiled

Coil ~ very tight curl ~ spiral in formation ~ when stretched, resembles loops “Textured hair”= tight coil pattern Manandchic.blogspot.com

Density ~ where hair is thin Condition ~ damage and breakage Length ~ physically long enough

Style determination ~after analysis ~braid style that complements client’s lifestyle ~best for hair texture ~what interests client

Product recommendation ~how to maintain-shampoo, conditioner, moisturizing ~daily/weekly instructions ~sulfate-free/antibacterial shampoos ~leave-in conditioners ~essential oils/shine sprays Scalp health ~healthy and properly cared for

Porosity and Elasticity ~determines the strength of the hair * extreme thin areas-braid thickness will be different *check for any alopecia ~handled differently (technique) *damaged hair should not be braided *thinner, finer hairlines-no tension

Most braids are appropriate Page 539 Oval Face Most braids are appropriate Elongated Face (oblong) Width at sides Hairweb.org

***Asymmetrical creates a slenderizing look High on top Round Face Add height ***Asymmetrical creates a slenderizing look High on top *secured below the crown in back Hairbytowanda.com Pabeautystation.co.uk http://www.natural-hair-care-info.com/cornrow-gallery.html

Inverted Triangle (Heart) Face Square face Longer braids to frame the face Inverted Triangle (Heart) Face Bangs that sweep across forehead ***Fullness at chin

Triangular (Pear) Face Bring braids forward at chin line ***Diamond Face ***Bang Narrow sides Fullness at chin http://braids.nicehairstyles.net/tag/micro-braids-hairstyles-2/

Did You Know? Page 531 *Natural hairstyling includes: Pennsylvania Code -twisting -wrapping -weaving -extending -locking -braiding -application of heat (blow dryer, straightening comb/ceramic iron) *some states-Pennsylvania - “natural hair braider license” (Washington DC-locktician license) *cannot perform chemical or haircutting services

Boar-bristle brush (natural hairbrush) ~ stimulates scalp Tools for Braiding Boar-bristle brush (natural hairbrush) ~ stimulates scalp ~ removes dirt and lint Square paddle brush ~ releases tangles, knots, and snarls ~ cushion of air (bristles collapse with resistance *prevents breakage in fragile hair Cherrybrook.com

~ gently to remove tangles Vent brush ~ gently to remove tangles ~ wet or dry hair Use on human hair extensions Check tips ~ even if one is missing/discard fbi4u.com Cachebeauty.com

Wide-toothed comb ~ teeth width ~ medium to large Avoid scratching the scalp Allows textured hair to move between rows of teeth Double-tooth comb ~ separates the hair ~ detangles wet hair Cosmeticmarket.com

Locking/twist comb ~#55 barber comb ~smaller angled tooth on one side ~large width on other end ~allows textured hair to lock and coil easily in various widths)

Tail comb ~ for design parting ~ sectioning large segments ~ opening and removing braids Finishing comb ~ 8 to 10” in length ~ used while cutting extensions ~ fine/straight hair

Cutting comb ~ for small sections ~ use after hair is softened and elongated with blow-dryer (cannot do in PA unless licensed Cosmetologist) Pick with round teeth ~ lifting and separating *** one in kit

Blow-dryer with pick nozzle ~ dries, stretches, and softens Diffuser ~ dries without disturbing the curl pattern ~finishes look without dehydrating the hair Folica.com $187.00

~ creates shape and finished look Five-inch scissors ~ creates shape and finished look ~ trims bangs (fringe) {cosmetologist} ~ excess extension material Long clips ~ separates into large sections Sleekhair.com

Butterfly and small clips ~ separates into various sections Hooded dryer ~ remove excess moisture before blowdrying Steamer-hydrate, moisturize, condition with water vapor Small rubber bands or string ~secure the ends

Extensions -Extension fibers-list to follow Hackle ~ board of fine upright nails ~human hair extensions ~ used to detangle and blend colors Drawing board ~ flat leather pads with close/fine teeth ~ sandwich the human hair extensions

Materials and Extensions The fibers you use will determine ~ how successful ~ durable the extension will be Buying new product: ~ buy in small quantities ~ test the fiber on a mannequin first

~ little information about the process ~ is it 100% ? Vogishchic.info Human hair ~ gold standard ~ imported from Asia ~ little information about the process ~ is it 100% ? ~ deal with suppliers you know and trust

Kanekalon ~ manufactured, synthetic fiber of excellent quality ~variety of types, names, colors, textures ~ some are high-heat resistant ~ durable, soft, less tangling ~ holds up to shampooing and styling ***costs more/better quality ***less shine

Madeinchina.com Tradeeasy.com

Nylon or rayon synthetic ~ less expensive ~ varying qualities ~ reflects light/very shiny ~ known to cut or break the hair ~ repeated shampooing=less durable ~ will melt if high heat is applied

~ made of cotton or nylon blend Yarn ~ made of cotton or nylon blend ~ very inexpensive ~ light, soft, and detangles easily ~ available in many colors ~ matte finish ~ expands when shampooed * will not slip ~ appear black in store/shows blue or green tint in natural light

Lin ~ wool fiber from Africa ~ matte finish ~ only in black and brown ~ comes in roll ~ any length and size ~ very flammable

Yak ~ strong fiber ~ domestic ox –hair is shaved ~ use alone or blend with human hair ~ mixed helps to remove manufactured shine

Prepare the Hair for Braiding: Working With Wet or Dry Hair ~ best dry/wet shrinks ~ tension leads to breakage/hair loss ~ wet-allow for shrinkage ~ straight, resistant hair *coat with wax or pomade After shampoo-towel dry without rubbing or tension

apply leave-in conditioner use wide-toothed comb/detangling comb blow-dry the hair wax, pomades, gels, or lotions can be used use large paddle brush beginning at ends to remove tangles

~ textured hair is * very fragile/wet and dry ~ blow-drying *dries the hair quickly * softens * more manageable ~ loosens and elongates wave pattern * easier “pick-up” * manipulation of the hair

~ left and right sides woven under center strand Braid the Hair Classified ~ visible or invisible Visible braid ~ three-strand braid ~ underhand technique ~ left and right sides woven under center strand ~used for cornrows cute2try.hairdos.blogspot.com

Invisible braid ~ three-strand braid ~ overlapping ~ overhand technique ~left and right strands go over the middle one

Rope Braid Two strands ~ twisted around each other ~ on one-length or long, layered hair ~ add to both sides before twisting ***done on dry hair

Fishtail Braid Simple two-strand braid ~ hair picked up from sides ~ added to the strands as they are crossed over each other *** done on dry hair ~ non-layered hair, at least shoulder length

Invisible Braid On or off the scalp With or without extensions Straight layered hair-use wax or pomade

Single Braids Terms: single, box, individual ~ all refer to free-hanging braids ~ with or without tension ~ either underhand or overhand stitch ~ all hair textures

~ parting determine where braid is * how it moves Math.buffalo.edu Subsections ~ square ~ triangular ~ rectangular ~ parting determine where braid is * how it moves ~ moves in any direction

Single Braids with Extensions ~ for single braids * integrated into the natural hair ~ select synthetic hair, yarn, or human hair ~ vital in the finished style ~ must be consistent and close together

During consultation ~ open package ~ verify that color is correct ~ cut to desired length ~ place on drawing board ~ place a heavy object on top ~ allows easy extract ~ can be separated and dispensed free-hand ***next paragraph is “how to”

~ narrow rows of visible braid *lie close to the scalp Cornrows Or canerows ~ narrow rows of visible braid *lie close to the scalp ~ on-the-scalp technique ~ consistent even partings www.freshafroeuropeansalon.co.uk/page8.htm

~ mannequin to practice * speed *accuracy * finger and wrist dexterity ~ worn by men, women, and children Combination cornrow with single braids in back www.naani.com/cornrows-photos-gallery

~ various lengths and textures ~ elaborate designs ~ skill and creative expression ~ can last several weeks without extensions ~ two months with extensions ~should be removed, shampooed, and conditioned

Cornrows with extensions should receive touch ups on individual rows to stay neat and tight Should be completely removed in 8 weeks to prevent knotting, locking, or thinning

Cornrows with Extensions ~ feed-in method ~ built up strand by strand with extension hair fibers ~ excess extension material * too much weight on fragile hairline * leaves an unrealistic finished look ~ correct tension avoids artificial look *prevents breakage

Traditional ~ flat, natural, and contoured ~ partings define the finished style ~ creates a tapered or narrow base at the hairline

~ extension hair * fills in the base ~ takes longer ~ lasts longer ~ looks more natural

When picking up hair ~ directly underneath ~ never comes from another panel ~ or extended up into the braid from a lower part

Overextending or misplacing the beginning of the extension ~ leaves hair exposed and unsupported ~ leads to breakage and hair loss especially at hairline

Tree Braids Newer way to add hair for longer looks Client’s hair is braided along with extension Finished look shows mostly faux hair

http://stylesbyjamille.webs.com/apps/photos/photo?photoid=65745800 http://images.google.com/imgres?q=tree+braids+styles&hl=en&biw=1024&bih=619&gbv=2&tbm=isch&tbnid=Dkap13ZK90cnnM:&imgrefurl=http://www.nonyehairbraiding.com/nonye/specialty.php%3Fmghash%3D6d..%26mggal%3D8&docid=EKGRDarDDzUlWM&imgurl=http://www.nonyehairbraiding.com/nonye/studio/images/8/pic_10.jpg&w=448&h=299&ei=idmBT6iiHY_iggfp9bzsBw&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=706&vpy=222&dur=22&hovh=183&hovw=275&tx=105&ty=100&sig=117154882344098738236&page=4&tbnh=135&tbnw=192&start=63&ndsp=22&ved=1t:429,r:10,s:63,i:234

Takes about 4 hours Techniques are still evolving Many ways to do them. You can read on if interested in these braids.

Senegalese twists *Synthetic hair

Classify Textured Sets and Styles: Elongates natural frizzy hair Produces smooth, silky, curls, wavy, and zigzag patterns Set on wet or dry hair

Bantu knot or Nubian knots- *double strand twisted around itself *secured with bobby pins or elastic bands Bantu knot-out style- *knots are opened for wavy, fuller loose curls

Braid-out set: *braiding hair wet or dry *open the braid *create crimped texture-on-texture effect with volume Flat-twist: *parted in several rows *divide section into two *twisted and interwoven to lie flat on scalp *varying patterns *with or without tension

Glamour waves: *flat-twist set first *hair completely dry *untwist and open for wavy texture Spiral rod set: *use rods, flex-rods, curl reformers *wrap vertical on rod and in a spiral movement *dry hair completely- if not, frizz

Coil Styles Coils or comb twists: Small sections Gelled and spiraled with comb or fingers Create tight, cylindrical coils Use for Nubian coils or to start locks

Coil-out After comb coiled Dried completely Uncoil or neatly unravel Creates a coily textured Afro Afro-popular in 1960’s and 70’s *wore hair natural *in a round fashion (shape)

Twist Styles Also known as double-strand twist Wet, gelled, or dry hair Two sections-overlap-creates a rope effect Can be done on all natural and artificial hair Then set on rods (ends or entire loc) Set vertically

Twist-out Unravel the twist Add fullness and a crimped effect Do twist on wet, gelled hair Any size or length Hair is dried, twists are opened Finger combed Creates a textured, voluminous Afro

Locks Or dreadlocks or locs ~ hair that is intertwined and meshed together ~ without chemicals ~ several slow phases ~ can take six months to one year

To cultivate locks ~ double twisting ~ wrapping with cord ~ coiling ~ braiding ~ or not combing or brushing

Rastafarians of Jamaica ~ natural course will cause it to lock (Rasta is a religion of respect of all living things and self-respect) Cultivated African locks ~ have symmetry and balance Magicdragon.org

Coil Comb Technique Early stage ~ while the coil is still open ~ place comb at base of the scalp * with a rotating motion * spiraling the hair into a curl ~ comb moves down to the end ~ gives a tight coil ~ excellent on short hair

Palm Roll ~ gentlest ~ guides it through all the natural stages of locking ~ apply gel to dampened subsections ~ place portion of hair between palms of both hands ~ roll in a clockwise or counterclockwise direction

~ move down the coil shaft Partings are: ~ directional ~ horizontal ~ vertical ~ brick-layered Decorative designs Sculpting patterns are creative options

Rastafarian.info Curly-hair-styles-magazine.com

Braids or Extensions ~ involves sectioning the hair * single braiding ~ synthetic fiber, yarn, or human hair * added to single braid to form a lock ~ after several weeks, braid will grow away from the scalp ~ palm roll used to cultivate the new growth to form a lock

Sisterlocks Instantly locks any textured hair Uses a special tool\ To achieve a single lock

Shaping and grooming takes patience and commitment (clients) In the beginning, clients must have professional hair shaping and grooming to ensure a good outcome