Fashion History The Early 1900’s

Historical Events The “Turn of the Century” 1900 Paris World’s Fair Automobiles hit the road The first skyscrapers Powered flight was in the process of being invented

Historical Events 1912- The Titanic 1914-1918- World War 1 1919- The Treaty of Versailles ended the war

Changing Times Due to World War 1, women begin to do men’s jobs Changes in lifestyle have an enormous effect on fashion Elaborate, restrictive clothing (worn mainly by the rich) gradually becomes simpler and more practical

Influences from the World of the Arts Pablo Picasso-cubist paintings Ballet Russe – Russian Ballet Movies – Motion pictures are new The first film stars!

“La Belle Epoque” The epoch (time) of beautiful clothes -1895-1914 Peak of luxury for the very rich and the very privileged-(people born into wealth) WW 1 brought an end to this time and a new era was born

The Silhouette of “La Belle Époque” 1895- Leg of Mutton Sleeves Gored skirts that flared Tiny sashes at the waist

Tailor Made Ready to Wear Costumes Worn by middle & upper class women Made of wool fabric Shirtwaist blouses Became known as “the Gibson Girl” style

The Gibson Girl 1890-1910 created by Charles Dana Gibson as a satire sketch of “The New Woman”. The Gibson Girl was competitive, sporty, emancipated and beautiful.

The Gibson Girl Shirt-waist blouse Tie or cravat loosely tied Slightly flared skirt

The “S-Curve” Silhouette Until 1905- the tightly laced corset created a tiny waist, while pushing the chest out and forcing the hips to go back creating the “S” shape to the female form.

The “S-Curve”Silhouette

The Corset Lacing, boning and shaped seams created the slim waist, “pigeon” chest and pushed the hips back

Changing Fashions 1909 the Silhouette begins to change Skirts lose their fullness and the silhouette becomes more slim or tubular Women’s feet showed as hemlines went up

Accessories Gloves were always worn Hats with big wide brims, adorned with feathers –sometimes called “Merry Widows” Parasols-little umbrellas Small bags-women did not use purses because there was no need

Motoring Outfits Cars were open and dusty Burberry created the “Duster”-a coat worn while riding in the car Hats with thick face veils Goggles

Duster Coat Worn over clothing for protection from dirt and dust while driving in cars.

Popular Colors of the Time “Sweet Pea” colors of bright pastels Later evolved to bright, brilliant hues

Designer Influence Paul Poiret He designed for the House of Worth Designed straight, tubular sheath dresses- liberating women from corsets Used bright colors Exotic designs Created trousers for women design based on Oriental Harem Pants

Paul Poiret He was also inspired by the Russian Ballet Designed the lampshade tunic and turbans in bright colors with beading Designed jeweled slippers Fur trim Pants

Paul Poiret Creator of the “Hobble Skirt” The skirt was very slim around the leg Designed “V”-necks –shocking! Women wore a “fetter” to hold their knees together so as not to take big steps-women “hobbled” as they walked in these skirts

Hobble Skirt Hobble skirts from 1910

Exotic Looks

ERTE’ Romaine de Tirtoff Stage and costume designer Designed for Poiret

Erte

Edwardian The Edwardian time/style is usually the time between 1890-1914.

New Attitudes Women need more practical clothes as they enter the work place Hemlines are going up Skirts flare as “Hobble Skirts” are left behind Trousers appear

Music Ragtime-the predecessor to Jazz

Real Women of the 1900s

Fashion Vocabulary La Belle Époque Edwardian Leg of Mutton Sleeve Gored Skirts Sashes Gibson Girls S-Curve Silhouette Parasol

Fashion Vocabulary Duster Orientalsim Paul Poiret Erte Turban Harem Pants Hobble Skirt Fetter V-neck tunic