Sewing Definitions & Notes: Strand 4 Construction Samples Magic Sewing Tricks

Interfacing Adds body, shape & stability to a project Fusible vs. Sew-In Lightweight, feather-weight, heavy, Stretch interfacing Collars, facings, handles, yokes… Does NOT have to be on grain! Just be space-conscience

Stay-Stitching Purpose: Stitching used to stabilize & prevent stretching during construction Most often on necklines How: Stitch ½” from edges (note if any of this stitching ends up showing on the right side of garment after its sewn, unpick it) Staystitch Video

Facings Purpose: To finish raw edges that can’t just be hemmed (usually because of curves or corners) Often found in Necklines, Collars, Front Openings, Armholes and Waistlines

Concave vs. Convex Curves Sewing Curved Seams Video

Clipping Purpose: Release tension on a concave curve How: Straight cuts into S.A. at ~1/2” intervals (NOT THROUGH STITCHING LINE)

Notching Purpose: Reduce Bulk from a convex curve How: V-shape cuts into S.A. at ~1/2” intervals (NOT THROUGH STITCHING LINE)

Draw in where you would NOTCH and where you would clip on these curves ConCAVE ConVEX

Grading Purpose: Reduce bulk in seam allowances How: trim FACING fabric’s S.A. to 1/8”-1/4” Grading Seam Allowances Video

Understitching Purpose: Row of stitching that holds seam allowance to one side, prevents facing from rolling to the front side How: Press the S.A. toward the facing and stitch 1/8” from the seam Understitching Video

Understitching

Darts Purpose: Tailoring technique to fit around body curves How: 1. Mark dart with dressmaker pen 2. Fold along center dart line 3. Sew from edge to dart point 4. Do not back stitch at the dart point. Dart Video

Tucks How to Sew and Press Tucks Video What is a tuck? How to measure Tucks? How to press tucks?

Pleats All pleats involve folding fabric. Each type of fold creates a different type of pleat Types Knife How to Make Pleats Box

Gathering 2 Rows of stitching Gathering Video 1. Sew two rows of basting Stitches Row 1: 1 slightly wider than the seam allowance Row 2: 1/4” away from the first in the seam allowance. Leave thread tails Do not backstitch!

Gathering Pull both bobbin threads until the gathering piece is the correct length for your fabric.

Gathers Pin the gathered piece to the flat piece. Adjust the gathers so they are evenly distributed. Pin in Place. Sew with the gathered side up. Even Distribution uneven

Hook and Eye A type of fastener or method of closing the top of a waistband, neckline, center front on a garment. Use a round eye for edges that meet. Use a straight eye for edges that overlap like the skirt/pant hook and bar that is shown.

Attaching a Hook & Eye See text book instructions: page 530 Watch the video. Sewing on a hook and eye using a Blanket Stitch.

Hems Hemming is the method used to finish the lower edge of a garment. The type of hem to use depends on the garment. Hand Sewn hems Machine Stitched hems Double fold Machine blind hem Rolled hems Narrow rolled hem Serged rolled hem

Steps to hemming 1. Mark the hem length 2. Turn up the hem try on the garment and pin in place 2. Turn up the hem Measure the width and press in place 3. Finish the hem edge Clean finish or serge 4. Stitch the hem in place Choose the method that suits your project.

Machine Blind Hem 1. Prepare hem 2. Thread sewing machine as usual. a. Attach Foot #5 Blind hem video b. Select Stitch # 7 3. Fold garment back 1/4” from the raw edge of the hem allowance so the hem lays flat against the table. 4. Stitch, guiding the folded edge of the garment along the stitching guide on the presser foot. a. adjust stitch width as needed so that the zigzag stitch barely goes through the folded edge. 5. Check for missed stitches. Press.

Double Fold Hem This hem is rolled twice and then stitched. Press the lower edge of the garment to the desired length. Unfold hem and press the lower edge to the first line pressed. Top stitch close to the edge using a single or a double needle. Double Fold Hem Video

Hand stitched Hems Types of hand stitches Use the stitch that will result in a hem that is invisible and durable. See pages 508-509 in the Clothing Textbook. Choose from the hemming stitch, Blind Stitch or Catch Stitch to Create your Sample

Take 5 You are finished with your Strand 4 Samples. See you in a while for more Construction Techniques

Lapped Zippers Video - Closed Seam Lapped Zipper Installation

Preparation for Lapped Zipper Installation Machine-baste opening closed. Press seam open. Use a zipper foot for all steps. Keep pull tab turned up for neck or skirt application and down for side dress application. For side dress application, whipstitch tapes together above top stop to form bar tack. Mark bottom of zipper opening on seam allowances.

Step 1 – Lapped Zipper Installation Work on inside of garment. With bottom of zipper opening away from you, extend right seam allowances. Place closed zipper face down on seam allowance with bottom stop at marking and coil or teeth next to, not on, seam. Machine-baste in place. Stitching may curve out around slider.

Step 2 – Lapped Zipper Installation Change to regular stitch length. Turn zipper face up, forming a fold in the seam allowance (not in tape). Bring fold close to coil or teeth but not close enough to touch. Stitch fold to zipper tape.

Step 3 – Lapped Zipper Installation With right side up, spread garment flat over the unstitched zipper tape. A pleat is formed at both ends of zipper opening. On outside of garment, mark bottom of zipper with pin. To topstitch the zipper, stitch across the bottom, pivot, and continue up the zipper. HINT: Place ½” scotch tape over the seam line for a topstitching guide with a 3/8” on the unstitched or overlap side.

Step 4 – Lapped Zipper Installation To finish, bring thread ends to inside and tie. Remove machine-basting along seamline. Press.

History of the Zipper Elias Howe (who invented the sewing machine) received a patent for an “automatic, continuous clothing closure” in 1851, but he did not pursue the marketing of his “closure.” Whitcomb Judson marketed a similar device called the “clasp locker” in 1893 and is credited with having invented the zipper. His patent did not use the word zipper though.

History of the Zipper Cont. Judson teamed up with a man named Lewis Walker and launched the “Universal Fastener Company,” for the item. Later, in 1913 Gideon Sundback, who worked for the company, developed the product into what we know would recognize as the modern zipper.

Sleeves Set In vs. Raglan

Sleeves Open Set-In: Sew in sleeve THEN side seam Easier method when you can use it

Sleeves Closed Set-In: Sew side seams in bodice & sleeve then sew together Harder method that is used when usually with a lined sleeve & looks more tailored

Easing Purpose: Making a larger piece of fabric fit with a smaller piece of fabric as a seam is sewn How: Do 2 rows of gathering stitches ¼” and ½” from sleeve edge, lightly gather and align notches. Don’t confuse with EASE: the amount of extra fabric in a garment for comfort & wearing)

Other stuff not in packet but one day…

Stitch in the Ditch

Basting

Centered Zippers

Invisible Zippers

Satin Stitch

Blanket Stitch

Hand Blanket Stitch

Button

Buttonhole

Elastic

Grainline Place on Fold Line Notches Markings Dart Double Ended Dart