No-poo and sustainable hygiene How to have a sustainable routine?

Shampoo, shower gel, shower too often DANGER - Industrial substance: Silicons: polluting and occlusive Preservative : toxics and harmful to health Active Ingredients : sodium lauryl/ laureth sulfate, ammonium lauryl/ laureth sulfate (Strong detergent, derived from palm oil) => irritate the scalp Cost a lot ! = Take the first shampoo or hair product you find -> nothing natural: Sulphates, silicones, alcohol, parabens ... They are at best irritating and allergenic, at worst endocrine disruptors and carcinogens. You could actually wash your hair with dishwashing liquid or laundry detergent instead of shampoo, because the same active ingredients are used to separate the dirt from each object--your hair, your dishes, your clothes. Moreover: have you ever noticed that the more you wash your hair, the more it seems to get dirty quickly? Its because aggressive products which are in the shampoos remove the sebum, which is supposed to nourish and protect your scalp. Then, to compensate, your body will produce much more -> greasy roots and dry ends (sebum not distributed over the lengths).

Solution ? No-poo No-shampoo : a way to have a more natural routine is using product adapted to your type of hair Baking soda, Chickpea flour, Cornstarch, Cacao powder… Doesn’t mean that we stop cleaning, but just clean without industrial shampoo: basically, we make our own « shampoo » with the help of powders, for example, argil. There are lots of possibilities, it’s kind of a game, you can use a lot of things which are already in your kitchen Nevertheless, depending on the person, there may be a period of adaptation. You may have to wait some time for the scalp and the hair to get rid of chemical residues.

How to ?

Phase of desintoxication : Espace your shampoos (and finish your products) Nice hair styles Each day Every 3 days 1 per week Lot of silicon in the traditional shampoo -> glossy + soft hair// superficial layer that deposits on the hair and prevents the care from penetrating and healing. Most powder should not be used more than 1 time per week, + better for your hair if you wash them less. Your body has his own way to protect from the external aggressions (pollution…), and the sebum is actually here to protect and nourish your hair and scalp, and make them shine. To help you in this transition, the best is to accept the fact that your hair will not look really nice the first weeks, so just make nice hairstyle if you have to be well presented for work or anything else. But if it’s to hard, you can also try dry shampoo (we will see after how to make your own), refreshing spray (recipie after) of try water only (explain after).

Brush your hair As most as you can : remove dust that accumulates, spread the sebum over lenghts Clean the brush

Clean it ! Prepare your no-poo and rinsing : 1 tablespoon of cider or white vinegar in 1 L of cold water (use an old bottle of water) Brush and then wet hair Applicate the mixture on the scalp (not on the lenghts!!) Wash your body, wait 5-10 minutes Rinse well, with water not too hot to prevent your scalp becoming oily again. Spread the vinegar water in all your hair -> shiny hair, easy to brush/ unravel knots. Can do some after-shampoo and masks, depending of the needs of your hair, but personnally my hair is good like that, I prefer the simplicity, and if sometimes I feel my hair is too dry, I just put some coconut oil on the lenghts.

The acid rinse Tap water basic (more or less calcareous), while pH « of the skin » is acid (ideally at 4,7*) -> rebalance it by an acid rinse water. Actually, the use of soaps or other products too alkaline really disturbs the balance of our skin, causing the proliferation of dangerous bacteria and microbes, but also the premature aging of the skin… *http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00344.x/full

What powder can you use ? Shikakaï Sidr Properties : Indications : Restores shine and strength to the hair Promotes hair growth Indications : All hair types Anti dandruff Utilisation : Make a paste by adding water, Apply on damp hair and leave for 5 to 20 min. Put a trickle of water on the head, massage to distribute well Properties : Astringent and purifying: helps relieve the itching associated with scalp diseases foam Indications : All hair types Anti dandruff Utilisation : Make a paste by adding water, Apply on damp hair and leave for 5 to 20 min. Put a trickle of water on the head, massage to distribute well There is no miracle recipie: you have to find your own routine.

Rhassoul (or Gassoul) Chickpeas flour Properties : Indications : Non-agressive Indications : All hair types Utilisation : Make a paste by adding water, Apply on damp hair and leave for 5 to 20 min. Put a trickle of water on the head, massage to distribute well Properties : Purifying Anti dandruff Indications : All hair types, except very dry Ideal for oily hair Utilisation : Make a paste by adding water, Apply on damp hair and leave for 5 to 20 min. Put a trickle of water on the head, massage to distribute well

Refreshing spray Rosemary spray 250 mL of water 2 tablespoon of rosmary Vinegar spray 250 mL of water 3 fresh mint leaves 2 tablespoon of cider vinegar Boil it for ten minuts, then filter and pour into a spray. Apply on the scalp and massage the oily areas. Let dry. Conservation: 1 week in the fridge

Optionnal : masks Moisturizing Nourishing Type of hair: dull, dry, brittle and rough, eletrics Ingredients: Apple sauce Aloe Vera gel Water of rice Vegetal milk / cream Agave/ Mapple syrup Optionnal : masks Nourishing Type of hair: really dry, fork easily and break. Straight ends, which tend to discolour. Ingredients: Avocado Banana Vegetal butter (shea) Vegetal oil (argan, avocado, coconut, olive, grape seed, castor…)

Recipies Moisturizing Nourishing 1 avocado 20 g of apple sauce 1 tablespoon of Aloe Vera gel Mix it, apply to dry or damp hair, on the lenghts and leave for 1h30 to 2h. Rinse, and wash if needed. 25 mM of Aloe Vera gel 75 mL of water Mix and use as a spray on dry hair. 1 avocado 1 tablespoon of nature yogurt 1 teaspoon of vegetal oil Mix until smooth paste Apply to damp hair, leave for 1h30 to 2h, rinse and wash with no-poo.

Dry shampoo Help to espace shampoo or no-poo, but also usefull if you don’t have time to wash your hair. They absorb sebum. Tip/ advice: a lot of powder will fly everywhere, so do it before dressing, and go in the shower or bath to do it! Black hair: 2/3 cornstarch + 1/3 defatted cocoa powder Blond hair: Cornstarch Red hair: ¾ cornstarch + ¼ cinamon / red clay There is different powder you can use for that, but the best one is cornstarch. You put your dry shampoo in an old spice containers, and apply by hand or sprinkle directly on the roots (not on the scalp), line by line or where you feel you need it. The shake your hair, wait some minutes (between 5 and 30), or a night, and brush your hair -> voluminous!

Water only Lot of methods, you have to find the one you works best for you ! Basically : Brush your hair before to go in the shower Wet hair with lukewarm water Then rince with cold water et keep on spreading the sebum and massage your scalp. You can repeat the step with lukewarm water if needed. But always finish with cold water to close the scales and stretch sebum over lenghts Rince with acid water to rebalance the pH of water. Wet hair: (not too hot), which allows the opening of the scales so that they absorb the sebum. Then use your hands to spread the sebum from roots to tips, and massage your scalp to remove dead skin and dust. You can use a washcloth to help you.

No-poo ? No problems Lot of sport ? Solution for all the familly Dry your roots after it with a towel, then let dry and finally brush weel to remove the salt! Children ? Perfect with water only, don’t need shampoo or no-poo if you do it since young !

Go farther Use micellar water, or oil to clean your face and remove makeup Stop using so many different creams for your face, depending on your type of slin (dry…) use oil or Aloe Vera gel (oil even for oily skin). Reusable Q-tip, cotton, toothbrush Less shower: just when needed, not every day -> destroys the hydrolipidic film of the skin, which become more sensitive and dry. Use natural soap: alep, Marseille's soap, or just water Make your own deodorant and tooth paste, or just use coconutoil / water; use Alum stone Use washable sanitary napkins or menstrual cup Micellar water is a cleanser composed of micelles, small particles of active agents.

DIY recipie Deodorant Toothpaste 6 tablespoon of coconut oil 60 mL of baing soda/ clay 60 mL of cornstarch 10 drops of essential oil (palmarosa) Melt coconut oil, add powders, essential oil and mix well. Put it in a container and apply with fingers. 2 tablespoon of coconut oil 2 tablespoon of green/ white clay 3 drops of pepermint essential oil 1 drop of tea tree essential oil Melt coconut oil, add the clay gradually with a wooden spoon (especially not metal) until it forms a paste. Add essential oil

Listen to your hair and to yourself. The main thing is to feel good! Conclusion Listen to your hair and to yourself. The main thing is to feel good!