Chapter 22 – 16’ Hair Removal

Introduction One of the fastest growing services Types Lip/brow Chin Arms Legs Bikini – art form of its own Brazilian

Men Nape of neck Chest Back Most common forms in salons and spas

Men Fashion trend hairless Sports Legs, arms, chests Cycling, swimming, body building Legs and arms, occasionally entire body

Hirsuties Hypertrichosis Growth of an unusual amount of hair on body parts normally bearing only downy hair Faces of women Backs of men

History of treatments Early Egyptian tombs Abrasive materials Pumice stone – used to rub away hair Ancient Greek & Roman women similar methods

Native Americans – Ancient Turks – Sharpened stones and seashells Rub off and pluck out hair Ancient Turks – used Rusma – a combination of yellow sulfide of arsenic, quicklime and rose water crude depilatory (ex. Nair)

Two Major Categories Permanent Temporary Most salons limited to this

Client Consultation ALWAYS necessary Questionnaire Medications – topical/oral Skin disorders Allergies/sensitivities changes can occur between visits

Medications - may not be able to receive services Antidepressants Hormones Cortisone Blood pressure Diabetes Retin A® Renova hydroquinone

Contraindication Condition that requires avoiding certain treatments, procedures, or products to prevent undesirable side effects.

Contraindications for Hair Removal Clients should not have ANY waxing or hair removal performed if anywhere on the body if they have any of the following without medical clearance Accutane – 6 months Blood thinning medications Drugs for autoimmune disease including lupus Psoriasis, eczema, other chronic skin disease

Prednisone or steroids Sunburn Presence of pustules or papules Recent cosmetic/reconstructive surgery within 3 months Laser treatment Severe varicose veins Questionable medical condition

Facial waxing should not be performed on any of the following conditions without medical clearance Rosacea/very sensitive skin History of fever blisters or cold sores Recent chemical peel - glycolic, alpha hydroxy, salicylic acid or other acid based products Recent microdermabrasion Use of exfoliating topical medication Laser skin treatment or surgical peel Use of hydroquinone for skin lightening

Permanent Hair Removal Electrolysis Removal of hair by means of an electric current that destroys the growth cells of hair Current is applied with a very fine needle-shaped electrode inserted into the hair follicle License electrologist

Electrolysis Hair Removal - YouTube http://hairremoval.about.com/od/electrolysis/a/Electrolysis101.htm photoepilation videos - Bing Videos

Photoepilation Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) Uses intense light to destroy the growth cells of the hair follicles No needles – minimizes risk of infection 50 % – 60% clearance of hair in 12 weeks

Administered by some cosmetologists/estheticians – depends on state law Mfg. – generally provide special training http://www.estheticon.com/video/photoepilation-2 photoepilation videos - Bing Videos

Laser Hair Removal Laser beam pulsed on skin, impairing growth Most effective when used on follicles that are in the growth/anagen phase Absolute requirement in that the hair must be darker than surrounding skin Coarse, dark hair responds best to laser treatment

Not for everyone Permanent hair removal for some clients For others it slows down regrowth Some states allowed under supervision of doctor Requires special training Offered by equipment mfg. http://hairremoval.about.com/od/laser/a/laser101.htm http://www.palomarmedical.com/treatments/hair-removal.aspx

Laws Vary by state to state Check state guidelines

Temporary Hair Removal Shaving Tweezing Electronic Tweezers Depilatories Epilators Threading Sugaring

Shaving Most common form Men’s faces Area softened by applying warm moist towel Shaving cream/lotion with lubrication and calms the skin Electric clipper/trimmer - nape area Apply pre-shaving lotion to lessen irritation PP 744 – did you know?

Tweezing Commonly used for eyebrows Mouth and chin Correctly shaped eyebrows have: Strong, positive impact on overall attractiveness Natural arch of eyebrow follows shape of orbital bone

Electronic Tweezers Transmits radio frequency energy down shaft to follicle Papilla dehydrated and eventually destroyed Energy is applied first at low level to pre-warm and then up to 2 minutes Not a method of permanent hair removal

Depilatories Is a substance used for the temporary removal of superfluous hair by dissolving at the skin level Caustic alkali product Contains detergents to strip sebum (oil) Adhesives to hold the chemicals to the shaft for 5 – 10 minutes Hair expands and disulfide bonds break

Chemicals – to destroy the disulfide bonds Sodium hydroxide Potassium hydroxide Thioglycolic acid Calcium thioglycolate Turn the hair into a soft jelly-like mass that can be scraped off

Requires a patch test – to see if sensitive to the action of the depilatory Predisposition test Allergy test Hairless part of the arm Apply small amount – mfg. directions 7 – 10 minutes

Signs – negative reaction No swelling No redness No rash Can be used safely on larger of the skin Follow mfg. directions Table 22-1

Epilators Removes hair from the bottom of the follicle Common form - wax Cold – Thicker Does not require fabric strips Hot Requires fabric strips Test for temperature 4- 6 weeks regrowth

Applied to various parts of the face & body hair must be ¼” – ½” for waxing to be effective Do not remove vellus hair – causes skin to lose softness Client consultation Sign release form – not valid in PA Wear disposable gloves – prevent contact with bloodborne pathogens

Safety Precautions Test temperature No contact with eyes Do not use over moles, warts, abrasions, irritated or inflamed skin Under arm – cold wax Apply aloe to redness and swelling reactions

Threading Practiced in Eastern cultures The manipulation of cotton thread – twisted and rolled along skin surface Entwining hair in the thread and lifting from follicle Increasing popularity in America – Florida Requires special training

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2gAK8im1ITk Eyebrow Threading Tutorial. Learn how to thread eyebrows - YouTube

Sugaring Use of thick, sugar-based paste Appropriate for sensitive skin Advantage is can be used on 1/8” Sugaring - See the Sugaring Technique for Hair Removal Video