Structured Beauties: Evolution of the Crinoline Presentation by Emily Bach Maryland Historical Society 1944.45.2 Gift of Dr. James Bordley Jr.

Origins: Farthingales Left: Spanish Farthingales Right: French Farthingales “The Vanity of Women: Masks and Bustles” The Netherlands, ca. 1600 The Metropolitan Museum of Art 2001.341.1 Pedro Garcia de Benabarre “Herod’s Banquet” (Detail) Spain, ca. 1470 Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya, Barcelona 064060-000.

Wheel or Barrel Farthingale Hip Platter or Farthingale of the Royal Effigy of Queen Elizabeth I 1603 Dean and Chapter of Westminster, London “Queen Elizabeth I” by Marcus Geeraerts the Younger Oil on Canvas, circa 1592 NPG 2561 Courtesy of the National Portrait Gallery, London

Panniers Example of early-18th century panniers. Court Dress “Market for Panniers and Hoops set up by Proclamation favoring fashionable girls and Women Made in 1719” Collection de l’Histoire de France, année 1719, vol. 53 Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Paris. Qb1 (1719) – fol. Court Dress Courtesy of the Costume Institute of the Met C.1.65.13.1a-c Ca. 1750

1760s “Pocket Hoops” Left Image: 1954.38.06 Maryland Historical Society Gift of Mrs. James Bordley Jr. Ca. 1760s Right Image: Courtesy of the Costume Institute of the Met Ca. 1760 British 1996.374 a-c

Journal des Luxus 1797 Plate Number 31 Costume Parisien 1798 Plate Number 28 Costume Parisien 1810 Plate Number 1102

1977.13.65 Maryland Historical Society Gift of R. McGill MacKall

Metal Hinges

Depictions of the Crinoline “A Pardonable Mistake” By Honoré Daumier “A Lady Saved from Drowning by her Crinoline” Frank Leslie’s Weekly January 19, 1867 “Home Incidents, Accidents, &c.” “The Reign of Crinoline” Ca. 1845-1860 Musée des Civilisations de l”europe et de la Méditerranée, Marseilles, 53.86.4874D

Various examples of bustles. House of Lanvin Fall/Winter 1926 2009.300.2506 Gift of Costume Institute of the Met Example of Dior’s “New Look,” a style he introduced in 1947.