AQUARIUMS

SALTWATER FRESHWATER 1. Tank shapes: Tank shapes: 2. Conc. of water: shapes vary 2. Conc. of water: More 3. Oxygen conc.: 4. # of organisms: Tank shapes: Rectangle or square Conc. of water: Less Oxygen conc.: # of organisms:

5. Amount of dissolved minerals FRESHWATER 5. Amount of dissolved minerals Less Amount of dissolved gases … More Density – Less than 1.000 SALTWATER 5. Amount of dissolved minerals More Amount of dissolved gases… Less Density – More greater than 1.010

Oxygen content in the tank. The oxygen gets into your tank by diffusing into the exposed surface area. The bigger the exposed area, the more oxygen that will diffuse into the tank.

Saltwater System Salinity is the total amount of dissolved minerals per unit of water generally stated in parts per thousand (ppt). Galveston averages 29.1ppt Tanks need to be around 30 ppt

Recipe for salt water 1 cup per 2 gallons of water. We start out slowly and add more salt over time. Always easier to add salt than to pour the expensive mineral down the drain. When the tank water evaporates, the salt stays behind. NEVER add salt water to bring the level back up.

Pour tap water in and wait 24 hrs Pour tap water in and wait 24 hrs. for the correct factors to become effective. Salinity is never measured directly. It must be calculated using 2 magic numbers, the specific gravity and the temperature.

Measuring other chemical factors in the tanks. A hydrometer is used to measure the specific gravity (density) of the salt water. An acceptable range is 1.015-1.025. Higher density water will cause the hydrometer to “ride” higher up in the water. (The salt is pushing it up.) Lower density will allow the hydrometer to sink further into the water.

Measuring temperature The correct temperature must be maintained at all times especially for saltwater tropical fish. A heater should be used. Temperature is measured using a thermometer which is on the lower half of the hydrometer.

Measuring pH pH – Percentage of hydrogen ions is measured on a scale of 1-14. 1-6 = acid 7= neutral 8-14 = basic Use pH strips to measure the pH of your tanks

Ranges of pH: Fresh water is 7 which is neutral. Saltwater needs to be slightly basic, around 8.3.

Various problems associated with an aquarium. If the pH is not staying in its acceptable range of 7.8-8.5, there are many possible reasons: 1. A lack of bacteria in the tank. 2. Excessive organisms in tank. 3. Overfeeding (10 min. rule – take excess food out after 10 mins.) Not removing dead organisms. Use of a buffer A buffer limits the rate at which the pH changes and assists in maintaining a constant pH. Ex. of a buffer in gravel is CaCo3, calcium carbonate. The gravel is crushed coral or oyster shell. When these animals were alive they extracted the calcium from the sea water in order to make their shells or outer skeletons.

Fixing the problems: If your pH is too LOW, then it’s too ACIDIC and a base needs to be added in order to RAISE the ph. Sodium hydroxide is used If your pH is too HIGH then it’s too BASIC and an acid needs to be added to LOWER it. Vinegar (acetic acid) is used.

Fresh water tanks: Only need a simple kind of physical filter. Water is drawn up a tube into a reservoir and forced through a filter and then returned via a cascading fall. The chemical filter can be bottled bacteria.

Salt water tanks: Way more complicated… They require an undergravel filter. It has small slits in it and it sits on the bottom of the tank. The gravel goes on TOP of it. The compressor forces water down through the gravel. It is physically cleaned twice…Once through the gravel and then through the slits. Debris is trapped at the bottom of the tank. Stinks over time!!!!

Salt water The good bacteria sit in this gravel at on the undergravel filter. They CHEMICALLY clean your water in a 3 step process. The 2 good bacteria are: 1. Nitrosomonas:This organism oxidizes ammonia into nitrite as a metabolic process. Nitrosomonas are useful in bioremediation. They are important in the nitrogen cycle by increasing the availability of nitrogen to plants while limiting carbon dioxide fixation 2. Nitrobacters: Nitrobacter convert the nitrites into nitrates, which are readily absorbed by the plants.

3 step chemical filtration method 1. The good bacteria eat the ammonia (a very poisonous compound) released by the tank animals. 2. It is converted into a less toxic compound, nitrite. However, nitrite is still toxic. 3. Over time, the bacteria consume the nitrite and convert it into nitrate (is great).

How important is it to our aquariums? The Nitrogen Cycle How important is it to our aquariums?

Understanding the Nitrogen Cycle . . . Nitrogen In: Fish and invertebrates require food for energy. Burn energy with the help of O2 they respire. These processes produce waste products that are returned through the gills and in the urine and feces. Wastes: CO2 NH4 (extremely toxic to fish)

Understanding the Nitrogen Cycle . . . Nitrogen Out: CO2 leaves the water through: Aeration at the surface Photosynthesis by aquarium algae Ammonia  Nitrite  Nitrate (a less toxic compound

Understanding the Nitrogen Cycle . . . The role of bacteria: Convert harmful ammonia into non-toxic nutrients. Nitrosomonas – convert ammonia (NH4) into nitrite (NO2). Nitrobacteria – convert nitrite (NO2) into nitrate (NO3). These processes together are called nitrification.

The Nitrogen Cycle Fish Wastes Food Decomposers Mineralization by Heterotrophic Bacteria Fish Wastes Plants Nitrates (NO3) Nitrites (NO2) Ammonia (toxic) (NH4/NH3) Decaying plant Fragments and Uneaten food Water Changes

Understanding the Nitrogen Cycle . . . What happens to the nitrate? Absorbed by algae Converted to nitrogen gas Accumulates in the tank – Needs frequent water changes

Ammonia Testing Fill the glass vial ¾ full of water from your aquarium. Get testing solution bottles #1 and #2 and ammonia color card. Place 8 drops of solution #1 into vial. Place 8 drops of solution #2 into vial. Cap the vial and invert several times. Wait 5 minutes and read results using color chart. Record results on aquarium maintenance sheet.

Nitrate Testing Fill the glass vial ¾ full of water from your aquarium. Get testing solution bottles #1 and #2 and nitrate color card. Place 10 drops of solution #1 into vial. Cap the vial and invert several times. Wait 30 seconds, and shake up solution #2. Uncap the vial, and place 10 drops of solution #2 into vial. Cap the vial and continuously invert vial for 1 minute. Wait 5 minutes and read results using color chart. Record results on aquarium maintenance sheet.

Ammonia ------ nitrite------nitrate Ammonia (NH3) is the most toxic and will cause immediate harm to your critters. Nitrite (NO2) will cause harm, although it will be delayed. Nitrate (NO3) will cause harm only after long periods of time.

BIG HOWEVER… Over enough time, the nitrate levels will build up also and kill your fish.. Therefore, it is necessary to do a partial water change every 6-8 weeks. During this time, empty out 1/4 -1/2 of your tank water and replace it with fresh water. It will take several days to get the salinity back to where it needs to be. As temperature decreases in both salt and fresh water, the absorption of gases increases.

Lighting of your tank Lights are used to promote algae growth. Some algae is good due to the fact that a by product is oxygen. However, it is a good idea to turn your light off every now and then. Don’t use phosphates to clean your tank. (Use only baking soda/fresh water rinse.) They lead to too much algae growth.

Tank hoods The purpose of tank hoods is to slow the evaporation rate. Remember, when the water goes away, THE SALT STAYS!!!!

Metals and salt water A Big No-no!!!!! Metal is very corrosive in salt water. It will change your pH drastically and cause death to your critters. Lots of commercial paints are lead based. Only purchase plastic items for a salt water tank.

Parasitic organisms …Yuk!! Parasites become a problem when salinities are kept too low. Salinities that are kept too high can lead to death by dehydration. 2 primary parasites we often encounter are: ICH – protozoan (kingdom Protista) Ich is a protozoan disease that is often called “white spot disease”. The scientific name for the disease is ichthyophthiriasis. It is wide spread in all freshwater fish and is very common in aquarium fish possibly due to closer contact and stress involved with these species. Stress lowers the fish immune system which makes them vulnerable to disease. FIN ROT – fungus (kingdom Fungi) Infection is commonly brought on by bad water condidtions, injury, poor diet, stress, or as a secondary infection in a fish which is already fighting another disease.

Both of these parasites eat the fish from the outside in Both of these parasites eat the fish from the outside in. They resemble cotton growing on them. They can be treated if they are discovered in time. Point to remember, the medicine goes in the tank water, not shoved down the fish’s throat!!!! Remember to establish a “sick” bay.

Food and feeding procedures. Remember that your critters are cold-blooded, ectothermic. Therefore, they do not need to eat every day. We feed three times a week, M, W, and F. You and I are warm blooded, endothermic. Therefore, we must eat many times a day. (some of us more than others!!!)

Menu items Flake food – fish eat this * Remember, hermit crabs do not eat this; The flakes float and the crabs don’t. Pellets – bottom feeding fish , crabs and anemones eat this. Cut up frozen shrimp- the hermit crabs eat this. Live feeders – they eat minnows, goldfish, or live bait

How do different life styles affect the tank life. A. Competition – different species or the same species can compete for the following things: food, space, mates B. Predation – one is the predator and the other is the prey. C. “Does not play well with others” – time to think about another tank critter.

Anaerobic bacteria – what does it mean for the tank. Anaerobic means “without” oxygen …. If bacteria go through the process of cellular respiration without oxygen then hydrogen sulfide is produced.