Ice Climbing MITOC WS12 Anna de Regt Adapted from previous MITOC lectures J Mediatore, R Abbott, A Maznev, D Walker, D Custer, others

Ways into Ice Climbing Mountaineering (Snow climbing) Rock climbing

Ice::Rock (or plastic) Two ice tools = “hands” Two crampon’d boots = “feet” But belaying is just the same! If you can climb plastic at Metrorock, you can climb ice with MITOC!

Ice Encounters in the Outdoors On the way up a mountain: As an end in itself:

Where does ice come from? Formed from water Formed from snow under pressure Dima Shirokov on Fafnir Cannon Cliff , NH Olga Mirkina on Carbon Glacier, Mt. Rainier

Nuances Influencing Ice Climb Difficulty Water ice: (avg Angle of Pitch) 6 : > 90 0 5 : 85-90 0 4 : 70-85 0 3 : 60-75 0 2 : 45-60 0 1 : 30-45 0 Easier Conditions Calm winds Moderate temps Plastic ice Pick holes Short, easy approach Harder Conditions Strong winds Cold temps (<10F) Brittle ice Rotten ice Unclimbed route Thin spots Disconnected icecles Loose snow Snowfall Long route Long, strenuous approach

Dress well and keep warm Soft shells can be more comfortable and durable than hard shells (Gore-Tex/etc) Hiking, climbing: “action suit” Resting/belaying: big warm jacket, mittens, piece of foam to sit on Extra gloves (climbing, belaying, hiking) Eat, drink often! Rest hands below heart, don’t over-grip (‘leashless’ tools are nice in this respect!)

Ice Climbing Gear Adjustable leg loops for harness

Checklist for Day Ice Climb Essential Technical Gear Helmet Ice tools Crampons Rigid Boots Harness, belay device Avalanche forecast Important General Winter Gear Pack Gaiters Outerwear shell Spare gloves Chemical heat packs Headlamp Food (bars, gu, bagels) Drink (1-2 liter) Gloves/hat/warm clothes Weather forecaset Nice to Have Ski poles Snow shoes or xc-skis Binoculars Mylar emergency bag Repair kit, supplies Toilet paper Cell phone GPS/map/compass Shovel (shelter, digging car out!) THERMOS!

Where to climb: Auburn Ice Canyon

Where to climb: Newfoundland Lake and Flume

Where to climb: Rumney (Parking Lot Wall, Franky Lee)

Where to climb: Kinsman Notch

Where to climb: Champney Falls

Where to climb: Arethusa Falls

Where to climb: Crawford Notch (Willeys Slide, Walk in the Forest)

Where to climb: Frankenstein Cliff (Standard Route, Dracula)

Where to climb: Tuckerman’s Ravine

Where to Climb: Huntington Ravine Check avalanche forecast: http://www.tuckerman.org/avalanche/index.html Pinnacle Gully

Ice - Close to Home

Recommended Books on Technique By Will Gadd

Sources of Information – Climbs and Conditions An Ice Climber’s Guide to Northern New England 3rd ed, S. Peter Lewis & Rick Wilcox NE Conditions reports: www.neice.com www.neclimbs.com Other NE guidebooks Auburn Ice Canyon, Boston Rocks 2nd ed, MITOC Franconia Notch, Secrets of Notch, Sykes Adirondacks, Blue Lines, Mellor Catskills Ice, Molaris Yankee Rock and Ice : History of Climbing in NE US, Guy and Laura Waterman, S. Peter Lewis

Questions ? Lunatic Ice Climber with Few or No Functioning Brain Cells, by Tami Knight