Fabric Construction: Woven Fabric Fabric Construction – Woven Fabrics Highly magnified picture of yarns woven into fabric – you can see the fibres in the yarns.

Woven fabrics Fabric Construction – Woven Fabrics Weft yarns: These are the yarns that run horizontally . Weaving is interlacing yarns together at right angles on a weaving loom. Simple weaving is done on a shuttle loom, more complex weaving is done on a Jacquard loom. Warp yarns: These are the yarns that run vertically down the length of the fabric. They are usually very strong. Selvedge: This is the edge of the fabric where the weft yarns wrap around the warp yarns.

Woven fabric structure Slight stretch on the straight grain More stretch on the crosswise grain Lots of stretch on the bias Fabric square is stretched out of shape after tugging hard on the bias. Fabric Construction – Woven Fabrics Woven fabric structure Straight grain: This runs parallel to the selvedge edge with the warp threads. Warp threads are very strong, so the straight grain does not stretch very much. Crosswise grain : This runs at right angles to the selvedge edge with the weft yarns. There is more stretch on the crosswise grain than on the straight grain. Bias: This runs diagonally to the selvedge edge. There is a lot of stretch on the bias. Clothes that are cut on the bias drape beautifully. Bias cut dresses

Plain weave Fabric Construction – Woven Fabrics Weft yarn Warp yarn Plain weave is the simplest weave, the weft goes over and under alternate warp yarns. The closer the yarns are together, the denser the fabric will be. Plain weave is: Weft yarn The simplest weave to produce The tightest weave Looks the same from both sides Cheapest to make Strong Hardwearing Warp yarn Plain weave fabrics: Calico Taffeta Habutai silk Voile Cotton shirting muslin Muslin Taffeta Calico Cotton shirting Voile Habutai silk

Twill weave Fabric Construction – Woven Fabrics Weft yarn Warp yarn Twill weave is more complicated, the weft yarn goes over more than one warp yarn. Twill weave is recognised by a diagonal stripe on the fabric. Twill weave fabric is: Weft yarn Very strong (stronger than plain weave) Drapes well Used with soft yarns (wools and cottons) Recognised by a diagonal stripe Warp yarn Twill weave fabrics: Denim Tartan Tweed Gabardine Tartan Tweed Denim Gabardine

Satin weave Fabric Construction – Woven Fabrics Weft yarn In a satin (or sateen) weave either the warp or the weft floats over four or more yarns. This gives a real shine to the fabric. Satin weave fabrics are: Weft yarn These long overlapping threads snag easily Delicate Snag easily Don’t resist abrasion Satin weave fabrics: Duchess satin Crepe backed satin Silk charmeuse Warp yarn Duchess satin Crepe backed satin Silk charmeuse

Other types of weave Fabric Construction – Woven Fabrics Pile: These fabrics are woven with an extra layer of weft yarns that form a raised surface. The loops can be cut to make a velvet finish, or left to make terry towelling. These fabrics are less hardwearing because they can go bald, and are easily crushed. They also absorb moisture well. Extra loops are woven into the fabric. They are left like this for terry towelling Jacquard weave: This is a fabric with a woven pattern to it. It is created by lifting individual warp threads to create complex patterns. Used for furnishing and formal wear, the fabrics are heavy and hard wearing. A special loom called a jacquard loom is used to make these fabrics. The loops are cut to make velvet. It is this raised surface that is known as pile Jacquard Terry towelling Velvet

Properties of woven fabrics Fabric Construction – Woven Fabrics Properties of woven fabrics Woven fabrics have the following properties: The side edges (known as selvedges) don’t fray until cut. Once woven fabric is cut, it will fray. Woven fabrics can be woven at different densities and have different weights (e.g. Muslin, denim, voile). The fabric is strongest along the grainline, the warp yarns are the strongest. The fabric will stretch along the bias (diagonal) of the fabric.

Key facts to remember The exam: Blended and Mixed Fibres and Fabrics Key words: Plain weave Twill weave Satin weave Pile Jacquard Woven fabric Bias Straight grain Key facts to remember The three main different types of weave. Warp is up and down yarn on a loom, weft is right to left. Fabric stretches on the bias. Weight of a fabric is dictated by the thickness of the fibre type and how close the yarns are woven together (density). The exam: Make sure that you can recognise and label a woven fabric, and that you know its properties.