The Complete Spa Book for Massage Therapists EXFOLIATION: THEORY LESSON L-6.0

SPA THOUGHT “Literally and figuratively, exfoliation prepares you to receive everything else the spa has to offer—the creams, oils, and natural products—plus it prepares you to receive the spiritual benefits of rest and renewal found at a spa.” Susan Wheeler, Spa Director, The Spa at the Equinox

EXFOLIATION Any technique or process that removes dead skin cells from the surface of the skin Second only to massage in popularity Can be considered a type of hydrotherapy treatment

EXFOLIANTS & EXFOLIATION TOOLS Exfoliant: any product applied to the body in order to achieve exfoliation Exfoliation tool: loofahs, gloves, cloths, skin scrapers, & other instruments used to exfoliate the skin

THE WORD “EXFOLIATE” From the Latin exfoliare, which means “to strip of leaves,” from ex + folium

EXFOLIATION HISTORY Egyptians used soda ash to scrub the skin Romans used skin scrapers called strigils

EXFOLIATION HISTORY In Turkish baths, a rough canvas wash cloth was used to exfoliate. Finns exfoliated by beating the skin with birch branches in their saunas. Native Americans exfoliated with sand, grasses, herbs, and animal bones.

PURPOSE OF EXFOLIATION To cleanse the pores and prepare skin for absorption of products To help the skin perform its natural processes To leave client’s skin texture and appearance improved

EXFOLIANT TYPES Two main categories of exfoliation treatments are used in the spa setting: mechanical micronized buffing beads, crushed nut shells or seed pits, sugar or salt crystals, pumice stones, abrasive cloths, & loofahs chemical compounds containing salicylic acid, glycolic acid, fruit enzymes, citric acid, or malic acid

EXFOLIANT TYPES NAME DESCRIPTION Exfoliation all mechanical and chemical processes Body Scrub all mechanical exfoliation services except salt Body Glow Salt Scrub all mechanical exfoliation involving salt Salt Glow Body Polish non-salt exfoliation, especially gentle ones Sugar Scrub use of sugar granules to exfoliate Peel used by estheticians for chemical exfoliation “Ingredient” Scrub “almond scrub,” “ginger scrub,” “peppermint scrub,” etc. Dry Brushing use of a dry bristle brush to exfoliate Loofah Scrub use of loofah mitts or pads to exfoliate Herbal Scrub use of dried herbs to exfoliate Body Gommage exfoliation with a cream that dries on the skin & is scrubbed away

SALTS Dead Sea salts from Israel – most popular granule size ranges from fine to semi-coarse high concentrations of minerals magnesium chloride potassium chloride calcium

USING SALTS Salt typically mixed with other ingredients water, massage oil, & essential oils Occasionally combined w/ other exfoliants corn meal or jojoba buffing beads Larger salt grains = more intense action table salt not recommended—too finely ground, not enough friction to exfoliate

SUGARS Not as abrasive as salt No mineralizing benefits like salts Contain naturally occurring glycolic acid, one of the alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) helps eat away dead skin cells Often blended with aromatic essential oils

NUT & SEED MEALS Shells Seeds Ground down smaller than a grain of sand almond, walnut, etc. Seeds apricot, peach, etc. Ground down smaller than a grain of sand Irregularly shaped particles exfoliate skin

HERBAL SCRUBS Herb powders, moistened into a paste Dry on skin into a flaky layer Rubbed away with hands and fingers A gentle exfoliation Herbs add health benefits to exfoliation Ayurvedic herbs often applied this way

BODY GOMMAGE Typically employed by estheticians on face Involves the use of cream-like products Cream dries on the skin Buffed away with the palms & fingers

LOOFAH Multi-purpose exfoliation tool Used natural or as pads & mitts Ground into powder & added to creams Loofah is not a sponge but a fruit Grows on a vine in the tropics Dried out “skeleton” inside fruit is loofah  Abrasive when dry, less so when wet

AYATE CLOTHS Made from the agave cactus in Mexico Used dry, exfoliates & stimulates circulation When soaked in water, turns smooth, used to wash the body after exfoliation Popular at Southwestern U.S. spas Similar to sisal, also made from agave

EXFOLIATING GLOVES Simple way to exfoliate the skin Can be easily incorporated into a regular massage service No water required to work Inexpensive – can be offered to clients after each treatment

PUMICE STONES Stones not used for full-body exfoliation Popular for manicures & pedicures Ground pumice used in exfoliating mixtures Very lightweight; fine buffing material Source – volcanic eruptions & magma flow

DRY BRISTLE BRUSH Short, full-body exfoliations 5–10 minutes before product applications Stand-alone – ½ hour Always applied dry 2 main benefits exfoliation stimulation of lymph flow

BUFFING BEADS Tiny spheres Synthetic – polyethylene buffing beads Organic – jojoba buffing beads Roll over the skin instead of scraping One of the gentlest exfoliants

ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS “Unglue” dead skin cells for exfoliation Derived from fruit & milk sugars Five main types glycolic acid from sugar cane lactic acid from milk malic acid from apples & pears citric acid from oranges & lemons LMTs can apply 10% or less concentration

THE SKIN Deeper – dermis Superficial – epidermis nerve endings capillaries sweat glands sebaceous glands hair follicles Superficial – epidermis < 1/200th inch thick

SKIN RENEWAL PROCESS Keratinocytes created in stratum basale These cells move outward & die Form waterproof protein called keratin Keratin flakes off naturally – desquamation Exfoliation = therapist-aided desquamation Frequency: max 1–3 times per week

EXFOLIATION MAJOR CONTRAINDICATIONS Sunburn Cuts, abrasions, & sores Eczema Recent shaving Allergies Delicate skin

EXFOLIATION TECHNIQUES Wet room shower used Dry room wash cloths, towels, loofah mitts, & sponges used Wet Table Draping Protocol is used

EXFOLIATION STROKE Circular motions do not pull delicate skin fibers Palms and fingers open & flat Fingertips used for smaller areas “Gentle but firm” pressure pleasurable sensation effective exfoliation stimulates circulation

SUMMARY You now know: the meaning of exfoliation terminology the historical background of exfoliation the purpose of exfoliation exfoliation products used in spas exfoliation procedures used in spas how the skin is affected by exfoliation basic exfoliation maneuvers