Original Power Point Created by Howard Henderson Techniques of Pruning Original Power Point Created by Howard Henderson Modified by GA Agricultural Education Curriculum Office July 2002

5 Reasons For Pruning 1. To remove dead, diseased, insect-infested, or broken branches. 2. To change the size or proportion of the plant. 3. To develop a special form or shape, such as in hedge pruning or topiary and espalier work. To remove wilted or dead flowers and seed pods. 5. To rejuvenate a declining shrub.

Equipment Used For Pruning • Pruning saw: has a coarse teeth setting; can cut through green wood or dead wood without pinching the saw • Lopping shears: used for cutting larger branches • Hand shears: either have one blade plus a piece of metal or have two blades; used like scissors

Equipment Used For Pruning (Cont.) • Pole pruner: has a saw and a hook; used to remove branches 10-12’ overhead • Chain saw: used extensively to remove large branches that are 3” or more in diameter • Power pole pruner: a small chain saw on an extended handle; used to remove overhead branches

Pruning Methods • Thinning: removal of certain branches from a plant to open up the plant; used when you want to keep the natural shape • Heading back: removal of the end section of the plant branches at the same height • Renewal pruning: removal of old branches that are large and unproductive • Root pruning: involves cutting off all the lateral roots of the plant with a sharp spade in a circular pattern around the stem

How And When To Prune • Cutting at the proper angle: - Cut the plant stem at a 90º angle - When pruning, be sure that the natural shape and form of the plant is maintained. • When: - It depends on when the plant flowers or bears fruit.

Special Pruning Cases • Andromeda: Prune to remove dead, faded flower clusters in late spring. The new shoots should be pinched back to shape the plant, which will cause the plant to develop new growth. • Arborvitae: Prune before new growth begins in the spring. DO NOT prune beyond the green leaves since this will result in a permanent brown area. • Aucuba: Pinching back results in a thicker plant with more shape. If some of the leaves have turned black from winter burn, remove them.

Special Pruning Cases (Cont.) • Azalea: Prune after flowering to promote the production of new growth. Pinching back new top growth stimulates heavier blooming. • Boxwood: Pruning boxwood is important to keep the plant compact and full. Prune in the fall/early winter by removing short branches with hand pruners. Also remove diseased branches--be sure to dip the pruners in a 70% alcohol solution between each cut to prevent the spread of the disease. Do not use hedge shears since this causes the leaves to brown.

Special Pruning Cases (Cont.) • Fir: Prune to 1/2 the length of the candle. Growth may be retarded by removing the tip bud before the candle develops. • Hemlock: Prune in the early spring before new growth develops. This stimulates thicker growth and helps to control plant size and shape. • Holly: Prune various types of holly in December so that the branches can be used for holiday decorating. Select and cut the branches to develop the plant’s natural shape and form. Holly may also be pruned in early spring before new growth begins.

Special Pruning Cases (cont.) • Mountain Laurel: Prune to encourage growth of new shoots. Oddly shaped, tall, or leggy plants may be pruned to the ground to start new growth. • Nandina: Prune the oldest canes to the ground to start new growth. You can also prune to thin out the plant. • Oleander: Prune the faded flower clusters. Remove the top branches to induce new growth and to control the size of the plant.

Special Pruning Cases (Cont.) • Pine: Prune about 1/2 of each candle in June. This promotes thicker plant growth and the production of new side shoots. • Privet: Prune to control shape and size. • Rhododendron: Pinch the flower truss after blooming to prevent the formation of seed pods. After pinching, the plant will produce new growth quicker and set more flower buds for blooming in the following year. .

Special Pruning Cases (Cont.) • Spruce: Prune 1/2 of their new growth candles in August. This results in a fuller tree. • Yew: Prune in the spring after the new growth has hardened. Yews may be pruned in the summer to control plant growth, if necessary.