MITOC Winter School 2004 Dan Walker (mostly copied from Ben Ingram) Crampons MITOC Winter School 2004 Dan Walker (mostly copied from Ben Ingram)

Overview Introduction Crampon Types Fitting Crampons Using Crampons Caveats

Introduction What are crampons? Why Use Them? Metal spike that attach to your feet Why Use Them? Give traction on ice or steep snow Cutting Steps Sucks Hobnailing your Boots is no Longer in Fashion

All You Need To Know NO! YES!

Crampon Types: Number of Points Instep crampons (about six points on instep) Good for Emergencies 10/12 point crampons Standard Mountaineering Use

Crampon Types: Flexibility Hinged: More comfortable Tiring to front point Use with any boot Rigid: Less comfortable Less tiring to front point Can only be used with rigid boots

Crampon Types: Point Orientation Horizontal Front Points: Better in snow and soft ice Less balling (Horizontal Rails) For general mountaineering Vertical Front Points: Better in hard ice Can be Modular Dangerous balling (Vertical Rails) More Expensive

Crampon Types: Attachment Straps: Work with any boot Harder to put on in cold Step-in: Only work with welted boots Easy to put on

Crampon Types: Summary With mouse boots, use hinged, horizontal point, strap-on crampons like the black crampons with yellow straps or the “old school” crampons With Sorels, only the “old school” crampons fit

Fitting Crampons Fit is the extremely important. Crampons that fall off cause accidents and slow down the group. Adjust crampons at home Adjust length and instep width so that crampon holds boot without straps Strapping pattern Test crampon fit Practice putting on at home, so can put on with gloves or in cold

Crampon Ethics Levels of Hell 1: Lustful/Gluttonous 2: Seducers 3: Thieves 4: Hypocrites 5: Sowers of Discord Levels of Hell 6: Murderers 7: Traitors 8: Unadjusted Crampons 9: WMNF Denim-wearers

Crampon Use Two approaches: Get as many points as possible into ground Flat-Footing Front pointing

Caveats They’re sharp and put holes in clothing and packs Balling causes many accidents Don’t glissade in crampons! Crampons are both Metal and Cold