SOAPS AND DETERGENTS

Industry Background Soap is a multi - billion dollar industry Majority of soap is sold in supermarkets and mass merchants Total number of units sold each year is 3.1 million (10 billion pounds) Hotels discards 2.6 billion bars of soap every year Humanitarian efforts for washing hands

Brand Market Share

Dove Primetime Advertising Advertised on 100+ shows during primetime Indicative of wide audience reach Larger target audience

Sales in the Industry

A 20 mule team hauling borax in Death Valley Soap Making A 20-mule team hauling borax out of the valley. Photo provided by the National Park Service. Borax (Na2B4O7 _10H2O), 200 years ago this chemical Was used to remove dirt from people and cloth. Borax Powdery and dissolves in water. It was better than the very harsh soaps of the time. It was hailed the world over as a washing, cleansing, antiseptic, and preservative. A medicine miracle. In 1880’s borate was discovered in Death Valley, California, many miles from the nearest railway. To get the borate to the railway large wagons pulled by 20 mules were and sold as "20 Mule Team Borax”                                                                             A 20 mule team hauling borax in Death Valley

Soap – Good Reasons To Make Soap Lye soap is gentle and more creamy. Homemade soap is of better quality Costs a lot less money. Home made soap bars can easily outlast their commercial counterparts. Saddle soap is simply lye soap, so it's good for leather too.

CONTENTS SOAP Introduction Saponification Soap molecule (Micelles) Cleansing action of soaps Advantages and disadvantages

SOAPS It has a carboxylic acid A soap has an ionic group COO-Na+. Sodium or potassium salts + the long chain carboxylic acid. It has a carboxylic acid A soap has an ionic group COO-Na+.

EXAMPLES OF SOAPS Sodium stearate (Chemical formula: C17H35COO-Na+) Sodium palmitate (C15H31COO-Na+) IUPAC name :Hexadecanoic Acid made from palm oil of the African oil palm, also used as Napalm

MICELLES – SOAP MOLECULES A soap molecule has two ends with different properties- A long hydrocarbon part which is hydrophobic A short ionic part containing COO- Na+ which is hydrophilic (i.e. it dissolves in water). micelle

A Model of a Cell Membrane Polar Nonpolar Cholesterol Proteins Phospholipid bilayer Timberlake, Chemistry 7th Edition, page 587

Saponification Reaction: Fat + Lye  Soap + Glycerol

MECHANISM OF SOAPS The hydrocarbon ends of the soap molecule attach to grease present. Thus, the soap micelles entraps the oily particles by using the hydrocarbon ends. The ionic ends of the soap molecules remain attached to the water when the dirty cloth is agitated in soap solution. The oily particles presents on its surface gets dispersed in the water due to which the cloth gets clean.

Soap or Detergent If it does not say "soap" then it is not really soap! The word "Soap" actually has a legal definition provided by the FDA. Most commercial brands are not called soap because by law they cannot be -- because they are DETERGENTS and do not meet the legal definition of soap. Both soaps and detergents are surfactants (a blended word that comes from "surface active agents"). A surfactant decreases the surface tension of water which allows grease and water to mix. But, soaps and detergents are NOT the same. Soaps are made of materials found in nature. Detergents are synthetic surfactants, made from petrochemicals. Detergents were developed during World War I in response to a shortage of the animal and vegetable fats needed to make natural soap.

Which do you want on your skin? Dove GOAT MILK Soap saponified oils of: olive coconut organic palm canola (non-GMO) castor bean goat's milk raw honey oatmeal sodium cocoyl isethionate (synthetic detergent) water sodium isethionate or 2-hydroxyethanesulfonic acid(detergent/emulsifying agent) sodium dodecylbenzonesulfonate (synthetic detergent, skin irritant) fragrance (synthetic scent, allergen & common skin irritant) titanium dioxide (whitener, also used in house paint) trisodium EDTA (stabilizer, used in industrial cleaning products to decrease hard water, skin irritant) trisodium etidronate (preservative, a chemical that is used in soaps to prevent soap scum) BHT (preservative, common skin irritant)

ADVANTAGES & DISADVANTAGES Soaps are eco- friendly and bio degradable DISADVANTAGES Soaps are not suitable in the hard water.

DETERGENTS Detergents are the sodium salts of long chain benzene sulphuric acids. The ionic group is in a detergent is

DETERGENTS DISADVANTAGES OF DETERGENTS Synthetic detergents are more soluble in water than soaps. detergents are derived from petroleum not biodegradable

These are prepared from vegetable oils and animal fats. SOAPS AND DETERGENTS SOAPS These are prepared from vegetable oils and animal fats. They cannot be used effectively in hard water as they produce scum i.e., insoluble precipitates of Ca2+, Mg2+, Fe2+ etc. DETERGENTS They are prepared from hydrocarbons of petroleum or coal. These do not produce insoluble precipitates in hard water. They are effective in soft, hard or salt water.

Soap – Safely Working With Lye (NaOH) Lye if handled correctly these kinds of problems can be avoided.  There is no reason why accidents involving lye cannot be completely avoided. 1. Go in alphabetical order. Always pour Lye into the Water. (Slowly)  If you pour water onto lye it can cause a violent reaction. 2. Secondly, be careful not to splash or spill the lye solution.

Soap – Ingredients Oil or Fats - Any natural oil or animal fat can be turned into soap. Lye (NaOH - Sodium Hydroxide) - This is the ingredient that converts the oil or fat to soap. Water - Preferably distilled water or bottled water. Minerals in hard tap water aren't good for soapmaking. Essential and Fragrance Oils - These are not required. But can add a nice fragrance to your soap. To be added to soap at the trace stage.

Soap – Equipments Pair of safety goggles and a long sleeve shirt or coveralls. (Important) Pair of Neoprene rubber gloves or dish washing gloves. Half gallon Rubbermaid type pitchers (dishwasher safe) one for water, one for lye Sturdy plastic stirring spoons, one for oils, one for lye/water mix. Glass (not aluminum) candy thermometers. Large enameled or stainless pot to melt oils in. (16 qt. would work). (Do not use aluminum pots, only stainless steel or enameled.) Old blanket, preferably wool. (For insulating molds after pouring) Kitchen food scale or postal scale. Saran type food wrap. (For lining molds) Molds Stick Blender is optional (creates a faster trace) or Standard Kitchen Blender with lid and Towel

Soap – Method Step one - Prepare your molds.  Molds can be anything from a greased pan to capped PVC pipes or candy molds.  Set up your molds on a flat and level surface.  Grease them with PAM.  Make sure you have enough molds ready to accommodate all of your soap mix MOLDS: For molds you can use a wooden or cardboard box lined with saran wrap, candy molds or even a PVC pipe capped on one end.  If you use a PVC pipe all you do is spray the inside with PAM, pour the solution into the pipe, and let it set, and then uncap and push out the soap. You then can cut it into round pieces.

Soap – Method Step Two - Measure out your water and lye.  Dissolve the correct amount of lye in cold water (Do not use an aluminum container. Use stainless steel; enamel coated steel or a heat resistant glass container like Pyrex).   Do not pour water into the lye.  Pour the lye slowly into the water a little at a time.  Stir until dissolved and let cool. Your previously cold water will become very HOT in a matter of seconds after stirring in the lye Allow the lye/water solution to cool to around 43oC.  At this point it will be clear.

Soap – Method Step Three - Measure, Mix and Melt Oils and fat and let cool gradually to around 43oC. If your oils are already in liquid form such as palm oil, coconut oil, canola oil or corn oil simply heats them up to around 43oC. Make sure the pot that the oil is in is large enough to hold the oil and lye solution with enough room left over for stirring without splattering.   If you wish you can use a separate container for mixing the oil and lye.  In this case you would pour the warmed oil into this container prior to step 4.

Soap – Method Step Four - Pour the lye solution into the oil/fat in a thin, steady, stream with slow, even stirring.  Be careful not to splatter the solution onto yourself or others. Continue stirring.  Depending upon the type of oil you are using the solution will begin to thicken or trace in between 15 minutes to 3 hours. If you are using a slow trace recipe you may want to stir for a few minutes and then let the solution sit for 10-15 minutes and then repeat this process until a trace appears. (A trace is when you can take a spoonful of the soap solution and pour a stream across the top of the solution and have it leave a trace)

Soap – Method Step Five - When the solution begins to thicken you can add any essential oils or fragrances as well as any other additives that your recipe calls for.  (I.e. Oatmeal, herbs etc...) Stir these ingredients into the soap mix thoroughly. Step Six - Pour this mixture into your mold or molds.  After you pour the solution into your mold you should cover it with a towel to keep the soap from cooling to fast.  This will assist the soap in curing. Step Seven - Let the soap harden for a day or two and then pop it out of the mold, cut it and let it age for about 3 weeks before using it.

Film Clips Soap 4 min https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lQ6fCZgYc8g French Soap https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=naTtFqB4QFQ Discovery (5min) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1baLzbathvI