Batik “Paint-on” Method

The paint-on method is a great way to explore working with applying the wax without the more advanced knowledge of color mixing. Individual areas are painted on rather than going through multiple dye baths.

Step 1: Pre-wash your fabric, ideally with a professional dyer's product called Synthrapol. This removes most oils and finishes that could resist the dye and pre-shrinks the fabric. Wrinkles can be ironed out after washing.

Step 2: Cut cardboard as large as your fabric and cover the front with wax paper. For this method an open frame is best. This will be your frame to keep the fabric flat and horizontal.

Step 3: Stretch the fabric across the frame (cardboard) and pin it in place. In this example, the cardboard is also placed on 2 pieces of scrap wood, giving room for the push pins to go through the cardboard.

Step 4: The wax mixture is then melted in a double boiler, electric wax pot, or old electric frying pan set at about 220-240 (CAREFUL! If you heat the wax over it's flash point it can give off toxic smoke or burst into flames!) Always work in a well-ventilated area and keep baking soda on hand to put out any flames (not water). NEVER leave hot wax unattended.

Step 5: Apply the wax, using a natural fiber brush, a Tjanting, or metal stamps.

The wax should have a clear appearance, indicating it has penetrated to the other side. You may adjust the temperature of the wax so that it penetrates the fabric, not so cool that it sits on top (appearing white-ish) , and not so hot that all of your lines spread out. If you do not insure that the wax has gone through the fabric, it will bleed when you paint it, and you will lose the detail of your design.

Step 6: In a small jar mix 1 cup of warm water with 1/8 cup of soda ash.

Step 7: Brush this mixture thoroughly over your fabric.

Step 8: For each color, mix 1 teaspoon of water to ¼ teaspoon of dye powder (Procion MX Dye) in a small jar. A pinch of sodium alginate can also be added as a thickener if desired.

Step 9: Paint the dye on the fabric with a brush or foam applicator where your design will be, using the wax lines to hold the dye within each area. If you wet the area that you are working with first the dye will flow easier and blend evenly. Plain water is fine.

In areas where the wax has cracked or did not penetrate the fabric the colors will bleed across. Thickening the dye can help resolve this, though it is also important to embrace the nature of the material. Step 10: Let the fabric to air-cure for 24 hours. Leave it horizontal while it cures.

Step 11: The final stage is to remove the wax. To do this begin by soaking the fabric in hot water with a dash of Synthrapol (approx. ½ a cap full)

Run the fabric between your fingers and thumb to break up the lines.

Step 12: Finally, you will boil out the remaining wax. This is the traditional way of removing the wax. To begin, in a large pot bring water (with a dash of Synthrapol) to a boil.

Step 13: Add fabric and stir for several minutes. Bring the water to a simmer/boil and keep stirring. Try to keep the fabric below the surface of the water, as the wax is melting and floating to the top.

Step 14: When all the wax seems to be removed, turn off the heat and let the water cool. Be sure to keep the fabric below the surface during this step. In this example the ladle and stick are holding the fabric down. To speed up the cooling process you can carefully pour cold water into the pot.

Step 15: Skim the cooled, hardened wax off the surface and remove the fabric.

Step 16: Give the fabric one final rinse and leave to dry. You’re done!