Washable wool yarn JOONWHAN_LEE MAY 11 2015

Washable Wool Labeled by SUPERWASH (washable wool), a trademark owned by The Wool Bureau, Inc. in June 14, 1974

History of Wool industry 1930s: The depression Make do and mend -Booklet produced by British wartime government. American Red Cross

Superwash wool yarn for Knitting After the war, There is a demand wool knitwear that is machine washable and the modern requirements for total easy care Wool.

Meaning of Washable Shrinkage of wool After home laundry, heat, moisture and mechanical action cause the fiber to shrink and the edges of the cuticular scales to interlock, preventing the fiber from returning to its original position. By applying resins or polymers with an acid solution with low ph, with certain temperatures, the cuticular scales can be smooth and prevent to felting. The features (woolen) As seams remain smooth and trouser creases are durable to washing, the garment needs only a light press after drying. No loss of appearance during rain showers. The features (worsted) Milled/raised finishes are possible. As seams remain smooth, the garment needs only a light press after drying.

WASHABLE WOOL YARN Testing the scale of wool fiber (ASTM D276) Cashmere Wool Washable wool fiber

WASHABLE WOOL YARN Washable Mechanism: i) a coating with resins such as polyamide epichlorohydrin or grafting polymers onto wool fibre. ii) The morphological modification of the cuticular cells by chemical or physical treatments. The main method used was the Hercosett chlorination process applied as a continuous top treatment. List of Superwash wool finishing Enzymes Plasma Self crosslinking polymers Chitosan

Chlorine Hercosett process aims to “mask and smooth” the surface scales hence eliminating the DFE ( directional frictional effect ) which leads to wool felting during laundering a polyamine-epichlorhydrin condensate resin is applied to pre-chlorinated wool fibres in the form of sliver or 'top'. The tops are then gilled and spun into yarn in the normal way starting with acid chlorination to modify the epicuticle and thereby impart wettability. create reactive functionality for the reactive polymer bonding and raise surface energy to allow the polymer coating to spread. A subsequent step is antichlorination/neutralisation which creates further reactive functionality for the reactive polymer bonding and removes residual chlorine from the fibre. This step is followed by application of the polymer, softening and drying. The Chlorine Hercosett process has the disadvantage that adsorbable organohalogens (AOX) are produced in the chlorination stage, causing other solutions to be sought.

WASHABLE WOOL YARN SHRINK RESIST FINISH PROCESS (Morphological modification) An ultrathin silica layer coated on the wool altered both the surface roughness and the surface energy of the fiber and endowed the wool fabrics with excellent water absorption. The process of coating silica sols was dependent on an acid solution of low pH, which influenced the electrostatic interactions between nanoparticles and wool fibers.

End use DENIM DELIGHT LEVI'S WOOL DENIM 501 JEANS 3x1 creates Wool Denim collection LEVI'S WOOL DENIM 501 JEANS

Washable wool yarn Count warp and fill (ASTM-D-3775) Wool Denim 8 oz per square yard Bull denim 10.40 oz per square yard Warp 68 50 Filling 32 46 Dimensional Change in Home Laundry after 1 wash (AATCC-135) Wool Denim 8 oz per square yard Bull denim 10.40 oz per square yard Warp -3 -2 Filling +2 Tensile Strength (ASTM-D-5034) Filling 60 lbf, min 110 lbf, min

Washable wool yarn 1. Polymers used for washable treatments lead to weakening fibers with chlorination pretreatments. 2. Absorable Organic Halogens(AOX) A stand for absorbable is questionable. AOX include the most important water Insoluble technical organochlorine product: polyvinyl chloride, PVC. One of the major issues in the field of wool shrink resist finishing is the continual search for alternatives to chlorination pretreatments and chlorine containing shrink resist polymers. Part for filling is washable wool with light wash. The growth of filling leads to the fail in the constant quality of the wool products.

Washable wool yarn “The Woolmark is the registered certification mark of The Wool Bureau, Inc”, New York Magazine Oct 13, 1980 Functional finishes for textiles: an overview by R. Paul, Hohenstein Institut für Textilinnovation gGmbH, Boennigheim Germany Wool Denim “The feaures”, Woolmark, http://www.woolmark.com/innovations/wool-denim, 06 May 2014 Our History, American Red Cross, http://www.redcross.org/about-us/history “FACTORS THAT PRODUCE SHRINKAGE”, National Cleaners Association, http://www.nca-i.com/shrinkage_wool.html