Design Idea Target market is essential. Consumer trend research or target market research Includes: demographic data, lifestyle data, trend forecast. Design development: Mood Board Target market, brand image, product Silhouette Natural, hourglass, A-line Design details Collars, necklines, pockets, pleats Test Muslin - A muslin reproduction of the pattern, pinned, or stitched together in the form of a garment. To check the fit, balance, and proportion To check fabric potential of a drafted design To adjust the fit of a new design on a dress form or on a model

Pattern making Block or sloper: Tag board or digital pattern follows the natural contours of the body. custom fitted basic pattern based on individual or companies standard size measurements from which other patterns can be made. First Pattern: developed for a design Working Pattern: work in progress Final Pattern: paper or digital pattern for muslin or sample garment. It’s tested first and than corrected for sample or production.

Marking a pattern Every pattern piece should be marked with a Grainline Notches and punches In addition must include the following information Season fall, winter, holiday, resort, spring, summer Style number or name Piece sleeve, pocket, front, back, front facing Size S, M, L or size 2, 4, 6, 12 Cut 2/self, 2/lining, 1/fold

Cutter’s Must / Pattern Card A form containing pattern information Style number or name Yardage Size S, M, L or size 2, 4, 6, 12 Sketch of the garment A list of all the pattern pieces and cut Description of findings http://isntthatsew.org/pattern-card/

Markers and Layout A CAD program is useful because it automatically calculates the yardage needed and indicates how many layers of fabric need to be spread in order to complete the desired number of products. http://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2016/06/marigold-cutting.html http://fashion-incubator.com/what-is-a-marker/

Notches Notches are small marks, about 1/8” to ¼” depending on the value of the SA. Notches are used to match two pieces of fabric together and sew correctly. In the industry notches are a way of communication between the pattern maker, cutter, and the sewing machinist. Notch can be used by itself or in groups or two or three Notches also denotes seam or hem allowance Notches should be placed parallel or perpendicular to the CF, CB or center of a pattern. Notches should be at right angle to the seam allowance. Notches are used on the outer/cut edges of the pattern, such as front, back, sleeve, and shoulder

Notches Naoki Takizawa, SS11, “Mode & Science III – Anthoropometria”. This image shows a garment by the designer Naoki Takizawa that was part of his Spring-Summer 2011 collection. The image provides a great way of seeing how pattern notches are used to join different shapes of fabric together to ensure that the garment puzzle pieces will join together correctly when sewn. Notches are not normally seen on the finished garment and for this reason it can sometimes be hard to show examples of notching in contemporary fashion, except in cases such as this image where the process of making the garment becomes a visible and aesthetic part of the design, http://thecuttingclass.com/post/51805302235/naoki-takizawa-design-illustrates-use-of-notches

Notches Notches on commercial patterns cut with scissors Outward notches http://thecuttingclass.com/post/30519934677/pattern-notches-alexander-wang Cut small notches to prevent tearing Notch the side of the corner that will be sewn first (horizontal seam or vertical seam) Notch only one side of the corner Notches on industrial patterns cut with a notcher

Notches vs. Circles An awl is a pointed tool used to circle, punch mark or drill holes inside of a pattern where notcher will not fit Notches indicates the following Seam allowance Gathers Front (one notch), back (two notches) Tucks and edges Pleats Dart legs Circles indicates the following Dart point Button and buttonholes Pocket placement Applique placement Corner belts and loops Awl Notcher

Refer to the Reader’s digest book for more information Tailor Tacks http://thecuttingclass.com/post/30519934677/pattern-notches-alexander-wang https://threadtheoryblog.wordpress.com/category/guest-bloggers/page/3/ Refer to the Reader’s digest book for more information

Seam Allowance The distance between the raw edge and seam line ¼”: Enclosed seams (facing, neck, waistband, cuff) ½”: All the other seams Side seam, shoulder seam, princess seam, CB 5/8”: used in commercial patterns (unless otherwise indicated) 1”: for fittings http://thecuttingclass.com/post/30519934677/pattern-notches-alexander-wang

Notches http://thecuttingclass.com/post/30519934677/pattern-notches-alexander-wang